The Trip
In June ’22, I set off on a cycling journey from Santander to Porto. Leaving from Santander Airport, the route carried me along the rugged and spectacular North Spanish Coast all the way to Portugal. The ride took me through Asturias, Cantabria, and Galicia before crossing into the Minho region, each area offering its own landscapes, culture, and challenges. Many people assume that coastal roads are mostly flat, but Northern Spain quickly proves otherwise. Over the course of 1,310 km, I climbed a total of 16,329 meters—an adventure of constant ups and downs in every sense.
Along the way, I made time to swim in crystal‑clear waters, hike in the Picos de Europa, and even visit Illa de Ons, part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. My goal was to cover between 130 and 150 km per day, with an average of around 1,700 meters of climbing—tough, but incredibly rewarding.
Along the way, I made time to swim in crystal‑clear waters, hike in the Picos de Europa, and even visit Illa de Ons, part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. My goal was to cover between 130 and 150 km per day, with an average of around 1,700 meters of climbing—tough, but incredibly rewarding.
The Stages
Day# 1 (8 Jun '22): santander Airport to Santillana Del Mar (29.07 km - 399m elevation gain)
Touchdown in Santander at 3 p.m.—and with that, the adventure began. It had been a long time coming. My last cycling tour from Santander to Málaga took me deep into the heart of inland Spain, but this time, I hugged the coast.
After the long pause brought on by COVID, the trip felt like a breath of fresh air—literally and figuratively.
Easing back into the rhythm of daily rides, I started off keeping things light .
This journey was part training, part soul-reboot, with bigger challenges planned later that year. But this trip wasn't all about the bike. I carved out time to hike the rugged trails of the Picos de Europa, dived into the Atlantic’s crystal-clear waters, and indulged in Galicia’s legendary cuisine.
With bike prep taking up the afternoon, I kept Day 1 short and sweet. My first destination: the medieval gem of Santillana del Mar. With its cobblestone streets, historic charm, and a gentle start to what promised to be an unforgettable ride.
After the long pause brought on by COVID, the trip felt like a breath of fresh air—literally and figuratively.
Easing back into the rhythm of daily rides, I started off keeping things light .
This journey was part training, part soul-reboot, with bigger challenges planned later that year. But this trip wasn't all about the bike. I carved out time to hike the rugged trails of the Picos de Europa, dived into the Atlantic’s crystal-clear waters, and indulged in Galicia’s legendary cuisine.
With bike prep taking up the afternoon, I kept Day 1 short and sweet. My first destination: the medieval gem of Santillana del Mar. With its cobblestone streets, historic charm, and a gentle start to what promised to be an unforgettable ride.
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Day# 2 (9 Jun '22): Santanilla Del Mar to Lastres (127km - 1341m elevation gain)
I rolled out of Santillana del Mar with the morning sun warming the cobbled streets behind me. First stop: the legendary Caves of Altamira. Standing before those prehistoric paintings—some over 20,000 years old—was humbling. It’s surreal to think that the same land I’m cycling through once echoed with the footsteps of early humans.
From ancient art to architectural whimsy, I made my way to El CApricho de GAudi in Comillas. Gaudí’s playful genius is alive in every curve and tile—a burst of color and imagination nestled in a quiet coastal town.
The route hugged the northern coast, tracing the foothills of the Picos de Europa. Unlike my last trip, where I climbed through the mountains, this time the sea was my companion. The road brought me through charming fishing villages—Comillas, Llanes, Ribadesella—each with its own rhythm, scent of salt air, and stories etched into weathered boats and stone harbours.
I took my time, stopping often to soak in the views, chat with locals, and sample fresh seafood. My day ended in Lastres , a postcard-perfect seaside town perched on a hillside. With its terracotta rooftops cascading toward the harbour and the scent of grilled octopus in the air, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to linger.
From ancient art to architectural whimsy, I made my way to El CApricho de GAudi in Comillas. Gaudí’s playful genius is alive in every curve and tile—a burst of color and imagination nestled in a quiet coastal town.
The route hugged the northern coast, tracing the foothills of the Picos de Europa. Unlike my last trip, where I climbed through the mountains, this time the sea was my companion. The road brought me through charming fishing villages—Comillas, Llanes, Ribadesella—each with its own rhythm, scent of salt air, and stories etched into weathered boats and stone harbours.
I took my time, stopping often to soak in the views, chat with locals, and sample fresh seafood. My day ended in Lastres , a postcard-perfect seaside town perched on a hillside. With its terracotta rooftops cascading toward the harbour and the scent of grilled octopus in the air, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to linger.
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Day# 3 (10th Jun '22): Lastres - Cudillero (117 km - 1460m elevation gain)
Day 3 began with a detour to one of Spain’s best-kept secrets: Tazones. Often hailed as the most beautiful town in the country, this tiny fishing village feels like a storybook come to life. Cobbled streets, colorful houses, and the scent of salt and grilled seafood—it’s the kind of place that makes you want to pause and breathe it all in.
From there, I pedalled toward Gijon, a vibrant coastal city where nature and culture blend seamlessly. My highlight here: the Botanical gardens of Gijon. With over 30,000 plant species, the gardens are a living tapestry of Atlantic biodiversity.
Leaving Gijón behind, the road winds westward toward Cudillero, my final stop for the day. This idyllic fishing village is pure magic. Colourful cliff-top houses tumble down toward the Plaza de la Marina, where life unfolds slowly.
Cudillero isn’t just a destination—it’s a feeling. The kind that lingers long after the ride is over.
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Day# 5 (12th Jun '22): Rinlo to Ortigueira (106 km - 1338 m elevation gain)
Probably one of the most spectacular cycles, the rugged Northern coastline of Galicia. The day started at one of Spain’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders: Playa de las Catedrales. Known officially as Praia de Augas Santas, this beach in Galicia is famed for its towering rock arches and cathedral-like formations sculpted by the sea over millennia. During low tide, you can walk beneath these majestic arches, through caves and narrow sandy corridors that feel like nature’s own Gothic sanctuary.
Following the rugged Galician coastline, I took my time—pausing at secluded beaches, plunging into crystalline waters, and letting the Atlantic winds guide me.
This stretch is a wild swimmer’s dream. Hidden coves and quiet inlets offer perfect spots to dive in and feel the pulse of nature. Whether it’s a brisk morning dip or a sun-drenched float, each swim feels like a ritual—cleansing, invigorating, grounding. My day ended in Ortigueira, a coastal town where life is quiet.
Following the rugged Galician coastline, I took my time—pausing at secluded beaches, plunging into crystalline waters, and letting the Atlantic winds guide me.
This stretch is a wild swimmer’s dream. Hidden coves and quiet inlets offer perfect spots to dive in and feel the pulse of nature. Whether it’s a brisk morning dip or a sun-drenched float, each swim feels like a ritual—cleansing, invigorating, grounding. My day ended in Ortigueira, a coastal town where life is quiet.
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Day# 6 (13th Jun '22): Ortigueira to A Coruna (124 km - 2086m elevation gain)
Day# 6 was a true test of endurance and awe.
Leaving Ortigueira behind, I entered the wild heart of Galicia—cycling through the Sierra de A Capelada, a rugged mountain range where the land meets the sea in spectacular fashion. With cliffs soaring up to 640 meters, this is home to Vixia Herbeira, among the highest sea cliffs in mainland Europe. The route is steep, winding, and exhilarating—shared with wild horses, wind turbines, and panoramic views that stretch to infinity. Although, the views weren't present on this particular day. Gale force wind and low hanging clouds made the cycle treacherous.
The final stretch lead me to A Coruna, a city I’ve visited before—but one that never fails to impress. As the sun sets behind the Atlantic, I reflect on a day filled with myth, muscle, and maritime marvels. This was not just a ride—it was a pilgrimage through time.
Leaving Ortigueira behind, I entered the wild heart of Galicia—cycling through the Sierra de A Capelada, a rugged mountain range where the land meets the sea in spectacular fashion. With cliffs soaring up to 640 meters, this is home to Vixia Herbeira, among the highest sea cliffs in mainland Europe. The route is steep, winding, and exhilarating—shared with wild horses, wind turbines, and panoramic views that stretch to infinity. Although, the views weren't present on this particular day. Gale force wind and low hanging clouds made the cycle treacherous.
The final stretch lead me to A Coruna, a city I’ve visited before—but one that never fails to impress. As the sun sets behind the Atlantic, I reflect on a day filled with myth, muscle, and maritime marvels. This was not just a ride—it was a pilgrimage through time.
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Day# 7 (14th Jun '22): A Coruna to Muxia (110 km - 1676m elevation gain)
On Day 7, I followed a route that hugged the Galician coast once again, offering a blend of natural wonder and quiet reflection. Along the way, I passed through charming seaside towns, each with its own rhythm and character. But one stop stands out: Praia dos Cristais near Laxe.
Once a landfill, this tiny cove has been transformed by the sea into a surreal mosaic of polished glass. The waves have tumbled discarded bottles into smooth, colourful pebbles that now shimmer like jewels across the sand. It’s a reminder of nature’s resilience—and its ability to turn human waste into unexpected beauty.
Once a landfill, this tiny cove has been transformed by the sea into a surreal mosaic of polished glass. The waves have tumbled discarded bottles into smooth, colourful pebbles that now shimmer like jewels across the sand. It’s a reminder of nature’s resilience—and its ability to turn human waste into unexpected beauty.
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Day# 8 (15th Jun '22): Muxia to Muros (101 km - 1429m elevation gain)
Day 8 was nothing short of spectacular. Leaving Muxía behind, I followed the dramatic contours of the Costa da Morte, a coastline as wild as its name suggests. My first stop: the Fervenza do Ezaro, a rare natural marvel where the Xallas River plunges 40 meters directly into the Atlantic Ocean—one of the only waterfalls in Europe to do so.
Just nearby lies a cycling legend: the Ezaro Climb, a brutally steep road with gradients reaching 30%, once featured in the Vuelta. I decided to leave it for the pro's.
Next, I visited the Horreo de Carnota, a monumental grain store built in 1768. Stretching nearly 35 meters, it’s one of the longest in Galicia and a symbol of the region’s agricultural heritage.
Elevated on stone pillars to protect against rodents and moisture, it’s both functional and beautifully crafted—a testament to Galician ingenuity.
The route continued past stunning beaches, including the Praia de Area Maior , a pristine stretch of white sand near Os Muiños. Nestled in a scenic cove, it was perfect for a refreshing swim.
The day ended in the beautiful seaside town of Muros.
Just nearby lies a cycling legend: the Ezaro Climb, a brutally steep road with gradients reaching 30%, once featured in the Vuelta. I decided to leave it for the pro's.
Next, I visited the Horreo de Carnota, a monumental grain store built in 1768. Stretching nearly 35 meters, it’s one of the longest in Galicia and a symbol of the region’s agricultural heritage.
Elevated on stone pillars to protect against rodents and moisture, it’s both functional and beautifully crafted—a testament to Galician ingenuity.
The route continued past stunning beaches, including the Praia de Area Maior , a pristine stretch of white sand near Os Muiños. Nestled in a scenic cove, it was perfect for a refreshing swim.
The day ended in the beautiful seaside town of Muros.
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Day# 9 (16th Jun '22): Muros to Portonova (153km - 1278m elevation gain)
Day 9 promised more of Galicia’s rugged beauty, with the Atlantic sparkling beside me and sunshine lighting the way.
The route zigzagged through dramatic coastal landscapes, with stops that blended nature with history.
First stop was Castro de Barona, a spectacular Iron Age settlement perched on a rocky peninsula near Porto do Son. Built in the 1st century BC and inhabited until the 1st century AD, this fortified village features over 20 circular stone houses and defensive walls that once protected its seafaring inhabitants.
Next, I headed to the Dunas de Corrubedo Natural Park, home to one of Europe’s largest mobile dunes—over 1 km long, 250 meters wide, and 20 meters high.
Nearby, I crossed the bridge to Illa de San Sadurnino, a tiny island crowned by the ruins of a medieval tower. Once a defensive outpost against Viking raids, the tower now stands as a weathered sentinel over the Ría de Arousa.
The narrow bridge and tidal path add a sense of adventure to the visit.
The day ended in Portonovo , a lively seaside town known for its beaches, seafood, and summer buzz.
The route zigzagged through dramatic coastal landscapes, with stops that blended nature with history.
First stop was Castro de Barona, a spectacular Iron Age settlement perched on a rocky peninsula near Porto do Son. Built in the 1st century BC and inhabited until the 1st century AD, this fortified village features over 20 circular stone houses and defensive walls that once protected its seafaring inhabitants.
Next, I headed to the Dunas de Corrubedo Natural Park, home to one of Europe’s largest mobile dunes—over 1 km long, 250 meters wide, and 20 meters high.
Nearby, I crossed the bridge to Illa de San Sadurnino, a tiny island crowned by the ruins of a medieval tower. Once a defensive outpost against Viking raids, the tower now stands as a weathered sentinel over the Ría de Arousa.
The narrow bridge and tidal path add a sense of adventure to the visit.
The day ended in Portonovo , a lively seaside town known for its beaches, seafood, and summer buzz.
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Day# 10 (17th Jun '22): Portonova (0km - 0m elevation gain)
Though officially a rest day in Portonovo, day 10 held a secret mission: a ferry ride to the enchanting Illa de Ons, part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia Marine.
Having already explored the spectacular Cies islands , I was eager to discover Ons—less visited, more rustic, and equally magical. The island’s rocky platforms and shallow seabeds host rich marine biodiversity. Its cliffs and dunes are home to nesting birds, and its cultural history—once a thriving fishing community—adds depth to the visit
Having already explored the spectacular Cies islands , I was eager to discover Ons—less visited, more rustic, and equally magical. The island’s rocky platforms and shallow seabeds host rich marine biodiversity. Its cliffs and dunes are home to nesting birds, and its cultural history—once a thriving fishing community—adds depth to the visit
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Day# 11 (18th Jun '22): Portonova to A Guarda (107.17km - 1794m elevation)
Day 11 took me through familiar territory—I've holidayed in nearby Cangas before—but the journey still held plenty of charm, especially with a Guarda as my final destination.
First stop, Pontevedra. The elegant city of Pontevedra, home to one of Galicia’s most beautiful historic quarters. Declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1951, the old town is a maze of granite squares, arcaded streets, and noble houses adorned with over 200 coats of arms
Next was Vigo, Galicia’s largest city. Vigo’s Old Town is often overlooked, but it’s a treasure trove of narrow lanes, fishermen’s houses, and stately buildings.
After Vigo came Baiona, where the castelo de Monterreal awaited This 12th-century fortress, now a Parador hotel, sits dramatically on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic. Its three towers—Reloj, Tenaza, and Príncipe—guard centuries of history, from Roman times to the arrival of Columbus’s caravel .
Final destination was A Guarda, a town my parents adore—and I was thrilled to experience it for myself. Known for its warm people and exceptional seafood, the town boasts stunning restaurants serving delicious seafood.
First stop, Pontevedra. The elegant city of Pontevedra, home to one of Galicia’s most beautiful historic quarters. Declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1951, the old town is a maze of granite squares, arcaded streets, and noble houses adorned with over 200 coats of arms
Next was Vigo, Galicia’s largest city. Vigo’s Old Town is often overlooked, but it’s a treasure trove of narrow lanes, fishermen’s houses, and stately buildings.
After Vigo came Baiona, where the castelo de Monterreal awaited This 12th-century fortress, now a Parador hotel, sits dramatically on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic. Its three towers—Reloj, Tenaza, and Príncipe—guard centuries of history, from Roman times to the arrival of Columbus’s caravel .
Final destination was A Guarda, a town my parents adore—and I was thrilled to experience it for myself. Known for its warm people and exceptional seafood, the town boasts stunning restaurants serving delicious seafood.
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Day# 12 (19th Jun '22): A Guarda to Porto (118.8km -1401m elevation)
Starting off the day, i took the ferry to Caminha and left Spain behind me. Caminha is a short ride across the Minho River. This fortified border town is steeped in history and charm. The clock tower, part of the medieval city walls, still stands proudly at the heart of the old town.
Nearby, the Convent of Saint Anthony and the fortified complex of Caminha showcase 17th-century ramparts and curtain walls.
Next was Viana de Castello, one of North Portugal's most beautiful cities. There was a medieval festival taking place on the day I visited .
The town’s connection to the sea is ever-present—from cod fishing to shipbuilding—and its streets are lined with palaces, fountains, and traditional costume museums
The day ended in Porto, a city that needs no introduction.
Nearby, the Convent of Saint Anthony and the fortified complex of Caminha showcase 17th-century ramparts and curtain walls.
Next was Viana de Castello, one of North Portugal's most beautiful cities. There was a medieval festival taking place on the day I visited .
The town’s connection to the sea is ever-present—from cod fishing to shipbuilding—and its streets are lined with palaces, fountains, and traditional costume museums
The day ended in Porto, a city that needs no introduction.
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