The Trip
In May 2023 , I began my cycling journey from Faro to Almeria. After leaving Faro airport , I headed toward the Spanish border, where I entered Spain and followed a mostly coastal route. Along the way, I passed through cities like Huelva and Seville, soaking in the vibrant culture and coastal scenery.
From Seville, I turned inland and started climbing gradually toward Granada, taking in charming towns such as Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, El Chorro, and Montefrío. Each stop offered its own unique blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty.
As I approached the Sierra Nevada, I visited several natural parks and monuments, and climbed high into the mountains. The journey through the white-washed villages of Andalusia and the dramatic alpine landscapes of the Sierra Nevada made this leg of the trip especially memorable.
From Seville, I turned inland and started climbing gradually toward Granada, taking in charming towns such as Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda, El Chorro, and Montefrío. Each stop offered its own unique blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty.
As I approached the Sierra Nevada, I visited several natural parks and monuments, and climbed high into the mountains. The journey through the white-washed villages of Andalusia and the dramatic alpine landscapes of the Sierra Nevada made this leg of the trip especially memorable.
The Stages
Day# 1 (30 Apr '23): Faro Airport to Monto Gordo (64.16 km - 247m elevation gain)
My cycling adventure kicked off on Day 1 with my arrival in Faro, marking my first proper ride of 2023—and I couldn’t have been more excited to get back on the bike. After landing around 12pm, I kept the distance manageable with a relaxed 65km ride, easing into the journey.
I followed a mainly coastal route , passing through charming seaside towns like Olhao and Tavira, before reaching my destination in Monte Gordo. To avoid the busier roads of the Algarve, I opted for gravel paths that led me through peaceful marshlands near Olhão and Cabanas de Tavira. The mix of coastal views and quiet nature trails made for a perfect start to the trip.
I followed a mainly coastal route , passing through charming seaside towns like Olhao and Tavira, before reaching my destination in Monte Gordo. To avoid the busier roads of the Algarve, I opted for gravel paths that led me through peaceful marshlands near Olhão and Cabanas de Tavira. The mix of coastal views and quiet nature trails made for a perfect start to the trip.
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Day# 2 (1 May '23): Monto gordo to Aznalcazar (141km - 652m elevation gain)
On day 2, I left the seaside resort of Monte Gordo behind and cycled toward the charming town of Vila Real de Santo António, where I caught the ferry across the Guadiana River into Spain. Upon disembarking, I met two girls who were cycling around Europe—one of them had a broken wheel, so I stopped to help them fix it. It was a spontaneous moment of camaraderie that slightly delayed my start, and I didn’t begin my ride until around 12pm.
Determined to make progress, I ventured off the beaten track, navigating sandy forest roads and single tracks through dense woodlands. The day took a turn when I discovered that the only bridge accessible to cyclists was closed, forcing me into a 35km detour around the Odiel and Río Tinto Rivers.
I rolled into El Rocío around 8pm, tired but awestruck. The village felt like a frontier town straight out of the Wild West, with its sandy streets and rustic charm. Known for the El Rocío pilgrimage, the town welcomes nearly a million visitors from across Andalucía and beyond each year. Despite the day’s setbacks, arriving in such a unique place made it all worthwhile.
Determined to make progress, I ventured off the beaten track, navigating sandy forest roads and single tracks through dense woodlands. The day took a turn when I discovered that the only bridge accessible to cyclists was closed, forcing me into a 35km detour around the Odiel and Río Tinto Rivers.
I rolled into El Rocío around 8pm, tired but awestruck. The village felt like a frontier town straight out of the Wild West, with its sandy streets and rustic charm. Known for the El Rocío pilgrimage, the town welcomes nearly a million visitors from across Andalucía and beyond each year. Despite the day’s setbacks, arriving in such a unique place made it all worthwhile.
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Day# 3 (2nd May '23): Aznalcazar - Arcos de la frontera (134.91 km - 695m elevation gain)
Today marked the arrival of the year’s first heatwave. It was the first week of May, and temperatures soared to 35°C, making it a punishing day in the saddle. I left El Rocío behind and cycled through the vast plains south of Seville, where miles of gravel roads stretched endlessly under the blazing sun. With no shade and few villages in sight, carrying enough water became absolutely essential.
As I pushed through the flatlands toward Arcos de la Frontera, the lack of shelter and supply points took its toll. I arrived in Las Cabezas de San Juan completely drained and without a drop of water. A quick stop at the local supermarket gave me the refresh I desperately needed before tackling the final leg of the day.
From there, the route turned inland and began to climb gently toward the Sierra de Grazalema. That’s when the headwind kicked in. Where the sea breeze meets the Sierra, it intensifies—and I had the pleasure of battling that wind for the next two days.
Around 8pm, I reached Arcos de la Frontera, one of Andalucía’s most dramatically perched white villages. The town sits atop a rocky ridge, its houses clinging to the cliff face that plunges down to the river below. Despite the heat and headwinds, the view at the end was worth every pedal stroke.
As I pushed through the flatlands toward Arcos de la Frontera, the lack of shelter and supply points took its toll. I arrived in Las Cabezas de San Juan completely drained and without a drop of water. A quick stop at the local supermarket gave me the refresh I desperately needed before tackling the final leg of the day.
From there, the route turned inland and began to climb gently toward the Sierra de Grazalema. That’s when the headwind kicked in. Where the sea breeze meets the Sierra, it intensifies—and I had the pleasure of battling that wind for the next two days.
Around 8pm, I reached Arcos de la Frontera, one of Andalucía’s most dramatically perched white villages. The town sits atop a rocky ridge, its houses clinging to the cliff face that plunges down to the river below. Despite the heat and headwinds, the view at the end was worth every pedal stroke.
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Day# 4 (03rd May '23): Arcos de la Frontera to Ronda (107 km - 2607m elevation gain)
The ride from Arcos de la Frontera to Ronda was one of the most spectacular stages of the trip. With temperatures still soaring above 30°C and a relentless headwind, the route through Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema was both challenging and breathtaking.
This region is home to one of Europe’s largest colonies of Griffon vultures, and I spotted several soaring overhead as I climbed deeper into the park. The highest point of the day was Puerto del Boyar, standing at 1,103 meters. It wasn’t the steepest climb, but my lack of training really showed—making my 2022 cycle feel like a walk in the park by comparison.
To add to the drama, I picked up puncture number two during the descent toward Ronda. Not ideal, but part of the adventure.
I arrived in Ronda by evening and spent time exploring some of the town’s iconic sights. Perched dramatically atop a rocky gorge, Ronda’s blend of history and scenery made for a rewarding end to a tough day in the saddle.
This region is home to one of Europe’s largest colonies of Griffon vultures, and I spotted several soaring overhead as I climbed deeper into the park. The highest point of the day was Puerto del Boyar, standing at 1,103 meters. It wasn’t the steepest climb, but my lack of training really showed—making my 2022 cycle feel like a walk in the park by comparison.
To add to the drama, I picked up puncture number two during the descent toward Ronda. Not ideal, but part of the adventure.
I arrived in Ronda by evening and spent time exploring some of the town’s iconic sights. Perched dramatically atop a rocky gorge, Ronda’s blend of history and scenery made for a rewarding end to a tough day in the saddle.
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Day# 5 (04th May '23): Ronda to Antequerra (109.73 km - 2324 m elevation gain)
Another tough day in the saddle saw me climbing toward the towns of El Burgo and El Chorro. The latter is renowned for one of the world’s most spectacular walks—the Caminito del Rey, a narrow path clinging to the cliffs above the gorge. El Chorro is also a haven for rock climbers, with dramatic limestone walls drawing enthusiasts from around the globe.
After soaking in the rugged beauty of El Chorro, I continued toward the Parque Natural Torcal de Antequera, a geological wonderland declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park’s surreal karst formations—twisted limestone towers and stacked rock slabs—made it one of the most visually striking stops of the journey.
I ended the day in the beautiful town of Antequera, known for its rich history, whitewashed buildings, and proximity to some of Andalusia’s most iconic natural and cultural landmarks.
After soaking in the rugged beauty of El Chorro, I continued toward the Parque Natural Torcal de Antequera, a geological wonderland declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park’s surreal karst formations—twisted limestone towers and stacked rock slabs—made it one of the most visually striking stops of the journey.
I ended the day in the beautiful town of Antequera, known for its rich history, whitewashed buildings, and proximity to some of Andalusia’s most iconic natural and cultural landmarks.
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Day# 6 (05th Jun '23): Antequerra to Priego de Cordoba (89.1 km - 1514m elevation gain)
Day 6 was a shorter day in the saddle, but no less scenic. I set off to explore the beautiful white-washed towns of Iznájar and Priego de Córdoba, nestled in the heart of Andalusia. The route took me through the gentle, rolling hills of the Parque Natural de las Sierras Subbéticas, a region known for its olive groves, limestone cliffs, and quiet country roads.
The ride offered a welcome change of pace—less intense climbing, more time to soak in the views. I stopped to admire the medieval castle in Iznájar and wandered through Priego’s historic streets lined with white facades and flower-filled balconies.
For the night, I stayed in a former convent that had been transformed into the town’s hotel. Its thick stone walls and peaceful courtyard made for a serene end to the day, blending history and hospitality in perfect harmony.
The ride offered a welcome change of pace—less intense climbing, more time to soak in the views. I stopped to admire the medieval castle in Iznájar and wandered through Priego’s historic streets lined with white facades and flower-filled balconies.
For the night, I stayed in a former convent that had been transformed into the town’s hotel. Its thick stone walls and peaceful courtyard made for a serene end to the day, blending history and hospitality in perfect harmony.
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Day# 7 (06th May '23): Priego de Cordoba to Granada (110 km - 1676m elevation gain)
Day 7 took me on a scenic ride toward Montefrío, a village that gained internet fame after being selected by National Geographic as one of the top 10 views in the world. And it didn’t disappoint—its hilltop church and dramatic setting made for a stunning stop along the way.
From Montefrío, it was a relatively quick cycle toward Granada, where I spent the afternoon exploring the iconic Alhambra. Wandering through its palaces, gardens, and ancient fortifications was a highlight of the trip—an immersive dive into Moorish architecture and Andalusian history.
As evening fell, I indulged in Granada’s vibrant tapas culture, hopping between local bars and sampling everything from jamón ibérico to grilled aubergine with honey. After a long day of cycling and sightseeing, the food and atmosphere were the perfect reward.
From Montefrío, it was a relatively quick cycle toward Granada, where I spent the afternoon exploring the iconic Alhambra. Wandering through its palaces, gardens, and ancient fortifications was a highlight of the trip—an immersive dive into Moorish architecture and Andalusian history.
As evening fell, I indulged in Granada’s vibrant tapas culture, hopping between local bars and sampling everything from jamón ibérico to grilled aubergine with honey. After a long day of cycling and sightseeing, the food and atmosphere were the perfect reward.
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Day# 8 (07th May '23): Granada to Laujar de Andarax (122.01 km - 2271m elevation gain)
The day began with a ride along the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, heading toward the historic town of Guadix. Known for its unique cave houses carved into the hillsides, Guadix offered a fascinating glimse into a centuries-old way of life. The white chimneys poking out from the earth made it feel like I was pedaling through a landscape straight out of a storybook.
After leaving Guadix behind, I began the long climb into the Sierra Nevada, aiming for the small town of Laujar de Andarax. The ascent was steady and scenic, with sweeping views of rugged peaks and quiet valleys. The terrain grew more dramatic as I approached the afternoon’s challenge: the Puerto de la Ragua.
At 2,000 meters, Puerto de la Ragua marked the highest point of my entire trip. The climb was tough but rewarding, with crisp mountain air and panoramic vistas that made every pedal stroke worthwhile. Reaching the summit felt like a true milestone—both physically and symbolically—as I crossed into the final stretch of my journey.
After leaving Guadix behind, I began the long climb into the Sierra Nevada, aiming for the small town of Laujar de Andarax. The ascent was steady and scenic, with sweeping views of rugged peaks and quiet valleys. The terrain grew more dramatic as I approached the afternoon’s challenge: the Puerto de la Ragua.
At 2,000 meters, Puerto de la Ragua marked the highest point of my entire trip. The climb was tough but rewarding, with crisp mountain air and panoramic vistas that made every pedal stroke worthwhile. Reaching the summit felt like a true milestone—both physically and symbolically—as I crossed into the final stretch of my journey.
Day# 9 (08th May '22): Laujar de Andarax to Rodalquilar (119.92km - 1251m elevation gain)
Day 9 began with a rapid descent from the Sierra Nevada toward the Mediterranean coast. After days of climbing and high-altitude riding, the downhill stretch felt exhilarating. I took a scenic detour to visit the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, located in the province of Almería. As the largest protected coastal area in Andalusia, the park offered a dramatic change of scenery—arid landscapes, volcanic cliffs, and turquoise waters.
The beaches and coves were absolutely stunning, and after the heat and effort of the previous days, Cabo de Gata was the perfect place to cool off. I went for a swim in one of the secluded bays, surrounded by rugged beauty and the quiet rhythm of the sea. It was a moment of pure relaxation and reward.
This stretch of the journey blended nature, relief, and a touch of paradise—exactly what I needed before heading into the final leg of the trip.
The beaches and coves were absolutely stunning, and after the heat and effort of the previous days, Cabo de Gata was the perfect place to cool off. I went for a swim in one of the secluded bays, surrounded by rugged beauty and the quiet rhythm of the sea. It was a moment of pure relaxation and reward.
This stretch of the journey blended nature, relief, and a touch of paradise—exactly what I needed before heading into the final leg of the trip.
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