The Trip
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On the 15th June 2024, I commenced my cycle from Girona to Olbia. Leaving Girona airport , I cycled towards France where I followed a mainly mediterranean route (Eurovelo 8) visiting some of France its Unesco sites (Arles) and Nature reserves (Camargue)
From Marseille, I took the ferry to Corsica where i zigzaged across the island. Visiting Corsica's nature reserves (Reserve Naturelle de Scandola), i took some of Corsica's most stunning routes. Cycling through the Gorges de Spelunca and through Foret D'Atoine brought me towards Corsica's mountainous interior where I visted Corsica's peaks like Monte Cinto (2706m). From Corte, I decended back towards the east coast to start the climbing all over and cycle up the Col De Bavella which provided me with stunning views and some of Corsica's most thrilling landscapes. Along the route, i took some refreshing dives into the many crystal clear rivers in the mountains, but also visited the stunning beaches along the coast. Taking the ferry once more, I said goodbye to Corsica and headed to Sardinia where I completed the cycle with a short push towards Olbia. |
The Stages
Day# 1: Girona (2.43 km) - Ascent: 10m - Descent: 20m
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Day# 1 seen me arriving late enough in Girona. Having to put the bike together at the airport, I only cycled the short distance to the hotel.
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Day# 2: Girona to Argeles sur mer (125 km) - Ascent: 1330m - Descent: 1440m
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Day two began with a quiet ride through the Espai d'interes Natural Les Gavarres, a remote forested region just outside Girona. The morning light filtered through dense oak and pine, and the winding trails offered a peaceful start to the day.
As the day unfolded, I passed through medieval gems like Pubol, home to the castle once gifted by Salvador Dalí to his wife Gala, and Peralada, with its elegant castle and cobbled streets. Both towns offered the perfect excuse to pause, refuel, and soak in the timeless charm of Catalonia’s rural heart. The real adventure began as I approached the Col de Banyuls, a rugged and unspoiled mountain pass that marks the border between Spain and France. The climb was tough, especially near the summit where gravel and steep gradients tested my resolve. Descending into France, I reached Collioure, a seaside town that felt like a postcard come to life. Its pastel-colored houses, narrow alleys, and harbor filled with fishing boats radiated a unique French-Catalan atmosphere. A final push brought me to Argeles sur mer , where I stayed for the night. The town, nestled between the Pyrenees and the sea, offered a quiet place to rest and reflect on a day that had taken me across borders, through centuries, and into landscapes that felt both wild and welcoming. |
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Day# 3: Argeles sur mer to Beziers (119 km) - Ascent: 350m - Descent: 290m
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Day# 3 was mainly a flat cycle that brought me through Parc Naturel Regional de la Narbonnaise en Mediterranee.
This particular day was a semi-gravel day where i took the many coastal paths towards my end-destination Beziers. By afternoon, I reached the legendary Canal du Midi, a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of France’s most iconic engineering feats. I followed its tranquil banks toward Beziers, where the canal meets the Orb river in dramatic fashion. There, I visited the 9 locks of Fonseranes, a remarkable staircase of lock chambers that allows boats to descend more than 20 meters in elevation. Watching vessels navigate the series of oval-shaped basins was mesmerizing—a slow-motion ballet of water and machinery, framed by historic buildings and lush greenery. Seemingly inaccessible when viewed from the canal bridge straddling the Orb, Beziers cathedral St Nazaire overlooks the beautiful town and looks stunning. And then came the twist: for the night, I stayed in a converted jail cell. Yes, you read that right. The accommodation was once part of the town’s old prison, now repurposed into a quirky guesthouse. Thick stone walls, iron-barred windows, and a heavy door gave the room a unique atmosphere—equal parts eerie and oddly comforting. I’ll share more about that experience during my stay, but let’s just say it was unforgettable. |
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Day# 4: Beziers to Arles (155 km) - Ascent: 290m - Descent: 350m
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Day# 4 was another flat day in the saddle. The route seen me cycling through many beautiful villages. One is sete, a fishing village from where I will followed a mainly coastal route passing through the towns of Frontignan, Vic-la-Gardiole, Mireval,....
Another town I passed through is La Grande Motte, a popular seaside resort built in the 1960s. From here onwards, I headed deep into the Camargue natural park where I visited the historical town of Aigues-Mortes. Aigues-Mortes is an impressive sight, especially with its medieval city walls still intact. In the Camargue natural park, I admired the horses and flamingos. End destination for the day was Arles, a beautiful city with ancient ruins and a fascinating history that is famed for inspiring the paintings of Van Gogh. A must visit was the Roman amphitheatre |
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Day# 5: Arles to Marseille (92.3 km) - Ascent: 540m - Descent: 550m
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Day five was a gentler ride, easing me toward the bustling port city of Marseille. The morning began with a visit to Montmajour Abbey, a fortified Benedictine monastery built between the 10th and 18th centuries. Rising from a rocky outcrop near Arles, the abbey offered a striking blend of Romanesque, Gothic and Neoclassical architecture, shaped by centuries of spiritual devotion, political upheaval, and architectural ambition.
From Montmajour, I cycled southeast toward Marseille, the route growing busier as I approached the city. The final stretch was chaotic— dense traffic, narrow lanes, and the unmistakable energy of a port city in motion. Navigating through Marseille was an adventure in itself, but the reward was waiting at the harbour. By evening, I boarded the Linea Corsica Ferry, joining fellow travelers for a night crossing to Corsica. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the ship pulled away from the mainland, and the lights of Marseille faded into the distance. The sea was calm, the air warm, and the promise of Corsica's rugged beauty lay ahead. |
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Day# 6: Bastia to Ille Rousse (71.2 km) - Ascent: 1200m - Descent: 1170m
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The ferry docked at 8am in Corsica, and the island greeted me with a downpour. Rain hammered the deck as I disembarked, and the skies showed no sign of clearing. But the journey had to continue, and so began my first climb of the day: the Col de Teghime.
Rising to 555 meters, the ascent was steady and scenic, despite the wet conditions. The road snaked upward through misty hills, offering fleeting glimpses of the Bastia plain behind me and the Gulf of Saint Florent ahead. The climb was manageable, with an average gradient of around 5%, but the rain added a layer of challenge that made every pedal stroke count After cresting the col, I descended quickly into Saint Florent, a charming coastal town with pastel buildings and a sleepy harbour. By late afternoon, I reached L'Ile Rousse, soaked to the bone but exhilarated. The town, with its red granite islets was a welcome sight. I dried off, changed clothes, and headed out to explore. The evening was spent enjoying local seafood, Corsican wine, and the quiet beauty of the town’s lantern-lit streets. |
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Day# 7: Ille Rousse to Galeria (75.8 km) - Ascent: 1150 m - Descent: 1180m
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The day commenced with a climb towards the hilltop village of Sant Antonino. Because of its dramatic situation clinging around the top of a hill the village is sometimes referred to as the 'Eagles Nest'.
Sant'Antonino is officially classified as one of the 'most beautiful villages in France From here, I decended back towards the coast where I was welcomed by blue skies and sunshine. Following the coastal route, I reached the beautiful town of Calvi. Calvi is a beautiful city that with its cobbled streets, harbourside cafes and a Genoese citadel make for the perfect destination. The second part of the day seen me cycling along the coast towards Galeria. This part of the trip was just stunning, small roads clinging to the cliffs while the rough sea provided for some dramatic scenery. Fighting a continuous headwind, I reached the beautiful town of Galeria where i stayed for the night. |
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Day# 8: Galeria to Porto (51.2 km) - Ascent: 840 m - Descent: 820m
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A relatively short day in the saddle, day 8 seen me cycling through the Scandola Natural Reserve. A very long climb followed by a very long decent with the most stunning views made this into a stunning day of cycling.
By early afternoon, I arrived in the seaside town of Porto, nestled between cliffs and the sea. The pace shifted from exertion to relaxation. I spent the afternoon swimming in the clear Mediterranean waters, letting the salt and sun soothe tired muscles. A leisurely dinner followed— fresh seafood, local wine, and the kind of simple, nourishing food that tastes better after a day on the road. |
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Day# 9: Porto to Corte (84.4 km) - Ascent: 1900 m - Descent: 1500m
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Day nine began early— 7am, wheels turning beneath a soft Corsican dawn. The air was cool, the roads quiet, and the climb ahead loomed large: the Col de Vergio, Corsica’s highest road pass at 1477 meters.
The route led me through the Foret d'Aitone, a majestic woodland near the village of Evisa, known for its towering Laricio pines, crystal-clear streams, and natural pools. The forest felt ancient, almost sacred, with shafts of sunlight piercing the canopy and the scent of pine thick in the air. As I climbed, the landscape shifted—dense forest giving way to rocky outcrops and sweeping vistas. After a steady morning of climbing, it was downhill towards Corte where I stayed for the afternoon. Blessed with a stunning natural setting surrounded by jagged peaks at the confluence of several rivers, the mountain stronghold of Corte is just spectacular. Centring on a towering pinnacle that’s been fortified for over 2000 years, I enjoyed the town immensely. |
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Day# 10: Corte to Solenzara (87 km) - Ascent: 1390 m - Descent: 1800m
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Day 10 brought me from Corte to Solenzara. First col of the day was Col de Sorba which I brought me to the beautiful mountain village of Ghisona.
This town is loved for its charm and tranquility. Its alpine ski resort and its great sporting life make it a hotspot for outdoor tourism. Following the Fiumorbo, i had many opportunities to dive into the cool water of this mountain river providing me with the perfect way of cooling down. Heading futher towards the coast, I reached my end destination of Solenzara where I took a well deserved rest for my next day adventure up Col de Bavella. |
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Day# 11: Solenzara to Roccapina (93.8 km) - Ascent: 2010 m - Descent: 1930m
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On this particular day, i left early in the morning to beat the traffic up Col de Bavella, probably one of Corsica's most spectacular routes.
The Col de Bavella itself reaches an altitude of 1218 metres with the peaks of the 'needles' reaching more than 1800 metres. Climbing higher and higher, I cycled through the many pine forests below the col. The first town I reached under a threatening sky was Zonza, Corsica's adventure town. From there, I decented through the clouds towards the town of Sartene. Nestled among mountains and with endless small streets, it's worthwhile to wander through the streets. Reaching the coast, the sun made a welcome appearance again. The last stretch brought me to one of Corsica's most stunning beaches, Roccapina |
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Day# 12: Roccapina to Punta Sardegna (75.6 km) - Ascent: 640 m - Descent: 720m
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Leaving Roccapina behind, I cycled towards the stunning town of Bonifacio under a glorious morning sun. I had plenty of time prior to my ferry to Sardinia, so decided to go on a discovery walk through Bonifacio This village stands perilously atop an eroding limestone promontory that juts out into the sea.
The Vieille Ville is located in a 9th-century citadel, whose fortified walls stand tall defending the old town. The old centre offers visitors a fun environment with a bustling maze of streets to explore. In the afternoon, the ferry took me in about an hour to Sardinia. The last bit of cycling for the day was along the stunning Costa Serena. |
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Day# 13: Punta Sardegna to Pittulongi (70.5 km) - Ascent: 880 m - Descent: 880m
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The last day of cycling seen me following a coastal route visiting seaside towns like Palau, Golfo Aranci,....
With some stunning beaches on my doorstep, I went for a few refreshing dips in the sea. End destination was Pittulongi where I stayed for my final night. |
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Day# 14: Pittulongi to Olbia airport (13 km) - Ascent: 70 m - Descent: 70m
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And it is goodbye, a short cycle brought me to Olbia airport from where I will flew back to Dublin
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