Visiting Llastres

The small fishing town of Llastres lies in a truly stunning setting. Wedged between the mountains and the sea, this Asturian gem is often listed among Spain’s most beautiful villages. Built on a steep slope, its narrow streets climb sharply upward, and every turn rewards you with sweeping views across the Cantabrian Sea. And it’s that sea that has shaped Llastres into what it is today — a village with a long and proud fishing tradition.
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Once known for its whale‑hunting past, the port is still the beating heart of the town. Watching the daily rhythm there is worth the detour: fishermen preparing their boats, others returning with the catch of the day, and crates of fresh fish being unloaded onto the docks. As soon as the catch arrives, it heads straight to the local fish market, where a lively auction takes place every afternoon — a ritual that has defined Llastres for generations.

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And with fresh fish arriving at the port every day, it’s no surprise that Llastres is also known for its excellent seafood cuisine. From traditional restaurants to lively cider bars, you’re spoiled for choice — every meal feels tied to the sea just below.

The old quarter of Llastres is a delight to wander. Its cobbled streets wind between simple fishermen’s houses, grand palaces, and old emblazoned homes that hint at the town’s prosperous past. You’ll find the former whalers’ quarter, the distinctive Clock Tower, and the Church of Santa María de Sabada. The Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj) once served both as a watchtower and a belfry, standing guard over the village and the coastline it depended on.

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While the natural beauty of the coastline draws many visitors, this stretch is also known as the “Dinosaur Coast.” The unique geological formations here contain an exceptional number of dinosaur remains, and along several points of the shore you can actually see preserved footprints — silent traces of the giants that once roamed this land.

For the night, I chose to stay at Hotel Lastres Miramar, a modest 2‑star hotel that surprised me with a brilliant room and an equally impressive dinner and breakfast. One feature deserves a special mention: the restaurant’s stunning terrace. Perched on the edge of a cliff, it offers sweeping views of the coastline and a wonderfully calm setting to enjoy the food.
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I went for the cheese board to start, followed by beautifully prepared merluza. Both dishes were excellent, and the whole experience felt deeply connected to the sea below. If you ever find yourself in Asturias, I’d highly recommend making a detour to this charming fishing village.