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Cuenca rises like a stone crown above the twin gorges of the Río Júcar and Río Huécar, each carving deep, shadowed cuts through the mountains of east‑central Spain. The old town doesn’t simply overlook the cliffs; it perches on them, leaning out over the void in a way that feels both impossible and inevitable. Arriving by bicycle, I felt Cuenca’s dramatic geography in my legs long before I saw it with my eyes. The climb toward El Castillo, where I’d stay for the night, was steep enough to make me question my planning — but every turn revealed a little more of the gorge, the rooftops, and the rugged horizon. Cycling underneath the gate at Plaza Mayor, I rode straight into the heart of Cuenca’s old town — a bright, open square with cafés, colourful buildings, and a relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to slow down for a while. But not just yet. I kept climbing, and by the time I reached the top, breathless and grinning, the city had already earned my respect. After a refreshing shower in the apartment, i decided to wander into the Historic Walled Town. Narrow cobbled lanes twist between medieval houses, opening suddenly into viewpoints that make you stop in your tracks. Passing Cuenca Cathedral, I stopped for a moment to admire its mix of Gothic and Romanesque styles. It sits right in the middle of the old town, and the inside is quiet and beautiful. Outside, the square is a relaxed place to sit, watch people walk by, or enjoy a drink in the shade. Below you, the turquoise ribbon of the Río Júcar winds through the canyon, framed by rugged cliffs and pine‑covered hills. And then there are the icons — the Casas Colgadas that cling impossibly to the cliffside. The Casas Colgadas, or “Hanging Houses,” are probably the most photographed buildings in Cuenca. Their wooden balconies stick out over the Huécar gorge, making them look like they’re hanging in the air. It’s a strange and impressive sight, and you can see why everyone takes pictures of them. To get a better look, I walked across the San Pablo Bridge, a long iron bridge high above the gorge. From the middle of the bridge, you get a perfect view: the Hanging Houses on one side, the deep drop of the gorge below, and Cuenca’s old town rising behind them like a stone fortress. On the other side of the gorge is the Parador de Cuenca, a former 16th‑century convent that is now a hotel. It sits on its own rocky ledge and looks calm and solid, facing the Hanging Houses across the gorge. But Cuenca isn’t only about views and cliffs. It’s a place full of small cafés tucked under old stone arches, restaurants serving filling Manchego dishes, and quiet plazas where the evenings feel long and relaxed. The city feels old, but still very alive — dramatic in its setting, yet peaceful in its everyday rhythm.
If you follow the Río Júcar downstream, you’ll find easy walking paths, spots where people swim in summer, and viewpoints that show Cuenca from angles most visitors never see. The river is the city’s lifeline, and one of its most beautiful features. As the sun went down behind the mountains, the cliffs turned golden and the old town shifted into soft colours of amber and rose. From the terrace near El Castillo, I watched the lights come on across the city, each one marking a home somewhere along the ridge. The rivers below slipped into shadow, and the Hanging Houses turned into dark shapes against the evening sky.
1 Comment
9/7/2026 03:00:57 am
What two rivers create the deep gorges surrounding the old town of Cuenca?
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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