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Snæfellsjökull National Park

8/3/2019

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Snæfellsjökull National Park sits at the far western tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, a region shaped by high volcanic peaks, towering sea cliffs, sprawling lava fields, and golden sandy beaches. It’s a landscape so dramatic and otherworldly that Jules Verne chose it as the setting for Journey to the Centre of the Earth, forever immortalising its mystique.

On this particular day in late April, we found ourselves following the southern stretch of the circular seaside route, driving toward the small coastal village of Arnarstapi.

Where the weather had been promising when we left the beautiful town of Stykkisholmur earlier that morning, the weather deteriorated quickly the closer we got to the ice cap covered Snæfellsjökull.

The small town of Arnarstapi is an ideal base for the 2.5‑kilometre coastal walk to Hellnar, a route that winds through ancient lava fields and past eroded sea caves. Starting at the harbour, you’re immediately greeted by dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and even a few small waterfalls spilling over the rugged basalt formations — a perfect introduction to one of Iceland’s most scenic coastal paths.
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We had planned to take a break in Hellnar at a small cafe / restaurant called Fjoruhusid which is located right on a black basalt beach. There’s a small terrace here where you can admire the dramatic coastline, though it happened to be closed during our visit.

So we continued on to the incredible sea cliffs and the natural basalt towers of Lóndrangar. You could easily imagine yourself as an extra in The Lord of the Rings, approaching Barad‑dûr — the dark, jagged basalt columns rising defiantly from this unforgiving landscape.
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Looking down from any of the viewing platforms along the looped walking paths gives you a perfect vantage point to watch thousands of nesting seabirds clinging to the cliffs. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a seal below, weaving through the waves in search of its next meal.
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Next on our route was Saxhóll crater, a modest‑sized volcano with a metal stairway leading all the way to the top. From the summit, we were treated to sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean and the vast, moss‑covered lava fields stretching out in every direction.
Saxhóll erupted around 3,000 years ago, shaping much of the dramatic landscape we were admiring from above. Standing on the rim of this ancient crater on a bright April day felt almost surreal.
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And of course, Iceland’s weather kept us on our toes — sunshine one moment, then the threat of fog, showers, or even snow the next. It’s all part of the adventure.
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Driving further through this vast, barren landscape, we arrived at a beautiful little cove called Skardsvík Beach. Unlike most beaches in Iceland, which are formed from dark volcanic sand, Skardsvík is a striking golden‑sand beach — a rare and unexpected sight on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

​After parking in the small car park, we paused to admire the hardy wildflowers pushing up between the basalt rocks that frame this stunning shoreline. As we made our way toward the beach, we passed an ancient Viking grave, a quiet reminder of the island’s long and storied past.

And while the golden sand and crystal‑clear water might look tempting, don’t be fooled — the sea here is bitterly cold and can turn rough without warning. It’s a place best enjoyed for its beauty rather than for swimming.
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When we visited Snæfellsjökull National Park in April, it was wonderfully quiet. Being nearly five hours from Reykjavík, it’s not a typical day‑trip destination, but rather a place explored by travellers touring Iceland at a slower pace. The natural beauty of this region makes it an absolute must‑visit — a landscape shaped by fjords, lava fields, and snow‑covered volcanoes, each adding to its dramatic character.

With such diversity and raw beauty, it’s easy to understand why Jules Verne chose this area as the gateway to the centre of the Earth, and why it features so prominently in many of the Icelandic sagas long before that. It’s a place where nature and storytelling intertwine.

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    About the Author

    We are  Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love  the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield​

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