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Tucked off the beaten track between Lisbon and Coimbra lies Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros, a sparsely populated region in central Portugal. This chalk‑rich landscape is a favourite among speleologists, drawn by the many caves carved over centuries by underground rivers. Several of these caves are now open to visitors, including the Grutas de Mira de Aire, the largest cave system in Portugal. The nature reserve is ideal for cycling, hiking, or simply exploring by car. As you travel through the park, you’ll notice hundreds of dry‑stone walls marking old field boundaries and vast stretches of hardy cork trees—one of the few species able to thrive in these dry, limestone soils. This area is the real Portugal, the small villages haven't been touched by tourism, the locals are glad to have a chat about everday life, the small bars & restaurants have the authentic Portuguese dishes on offer,.... Goats roam freely in the barren landscape, just lifting their heads whenever the odd car passes by their remote grazing spot. The day we visited this remote nature reserve, the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind. Shifting from showers to bursts of sunshine, it painted the landscape in dramatic colours and ever‑changing light. Despite being largely overlooked by mainstream tourism, this region is a must‑visit if you appreciate nature, authenticity, and true tranquillity.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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