Hvalfjordur

Hvalfjörður—literally “Whale Fjord”—is only a 30‑minute drive from Reykjavík, yet it feels like a completely different world. With calm, glass‑like waters, snow‑capped mountains, and hidden waterfalls, it’s one of those places that quietly steals your heart.

Ever since the tunnel beneath the fjord opened and eliminated the need to drive the long way around, Hvalfjörður has become wonderfully peaceful. The moment you turn onto Route 47, the traffic fades away and you suddenly find yourself almost alone on a beautifully maintained road that hugs the shoreline.

On the day we visited, the fjord was a perfect mirror. The mountains, still dusted with March snow, shimmered in the sunlight and reflected flawlessly in the still water. It was one of those rare moments where Iceland feels untouched—just you, the landscape, and complete silence.

Despite its name, you won’t spot any whales in Hvalfjörður these days. What you will find, however, is Iceland’s last remaining whaling station—an unexpected reminder of the country’s whaling history tucked quietly along the shoreline.

Hvalfjörður also carries echoes of a very different past. During World War II, the fjord served as a strategic naval base for both the British and American forces. Some of the old buildings and piers still stand, weathered by time but unmistakably tied to that chapter of history.
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At the far end of the fjord begins one of Iceland’s most rewarding hikes: the trail to Glymur, once the tallest waterfall in the country. The route winds along the edge of a dramatic river gorge, offering breathtaking views at every turn. It’s an adventurous path—at one point you duck through a short cave, and later you cross a narrow bridge suspended above the rushing water. The effort is absolutely worth it.

Driving around the fjord, you will notice the many summer houses against the flanks of the mountains. If you are interested in learning more about the WW2 occupation by British and American navy of Hvalfjordur, you should visit the War and peace museum  (http://www2.warandpeace.is/).
​The small museum in the area offers an impressive collection of artifacts and historical information, giving real insight into the fjord’s past—from its whaling heritage to its role during World War II. It’s absolutely worth stopping in if you want to understand the deeper story of Hvalfjörður.

But honestly, the drive itself is the real highlight. Skipping the tunnel and taking the long route around the fjord is a detour we’d recommend every time. The road winds along calm waters, past mountains and waterfalls, and through some of the most peaceful scenery you’ll find near Reykjavík. If you’re craving tranquility and untouched Icelandic beauty, this drive delivers it in full.