Cies Islands , Galicia

We could easily have imagined ourselves as pirates stumbling upon a remote, uncharted island—one shrouded in thick, ghostly fog. In reality, it was just Dolores and me on a ferry from Cangas to the Illas Cíes in Galicia. Yet on this particular day, the islands were wrapped in such a dense blanket of mist that they felt every bit as mysterious as any forgotten treasure island.

The Cíes Islands were once known as the “Islands of the Gods” by the Romans, and today they form part of a protected natural park. Located in the Vigo estuary, the archipelago is made up of three islands: Monteagudo, O Faro, and San Martiño. Monteagudo and O Faro are linked by a spectacular stretch of white sand known as Rodas Beach—famously described by The Guardian as the best beach in the world.

Our boat came to a gentle stop near Rodas Beach, where everyone disembarked onto the soft white sand. Our first destination was the small restaurant and bar—perfect for a quick drink and a much‑needed toilet break before exploring further.

Even in those first few moments, it was easy to understand why the Romans once called these the “Islands of the Gods.” The Cíes feel like a slice of paradise: no traffic, pristine beaches, whispering pine forests, and that unmistakable Atlantic light. It was just us—and a couple of hundred other visitors—yet the islands never felt crowded. In summer they’re lively, but by late summer and autumn the pace slows, the air cools, and it becomes surprisingly easy to find a quiet corner all to yourself.

On this particular day, we wandered along the many paths that crisscross the island, including the one leading up to the lighthouse on Monte Faro. On a clear day, the views from the top are nothing short of breathtaking—but with the persistent fog wrapped around us, they were completely hidden from sight.​

​By the afternoon, though, the mist began to lift, slowly revealing the outlines of the cliffs and beaches. Eventually the sun even made a shy appearance. With the white sand of Rodas Beach glowing in the light and the surrounding waters turning their signature shade of azure, the temptation was too strong to resist. We went for a refreshing swim before catching the ferry back to Cangas.
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These islands are truly special, and we’ve already promised ourselves that we’ll return—ideally outside the main tourist season, when the Cíes feel even more like the paradise the Romans once imagined.

The Cíes Islands are one of those rare places where nature feels almost untouched. With no traffic, no hotels towering over the landscape, and strict visitor limits, the islands offer a level of tranquillity that’s hard to find elsewhere. Their beaches—especially the famous Rodas Beach—are among the most beautiful in Europe, with white sand and crystal‑clear Atlantic water that looks almost tropical on a sunny day.