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It was meant to be a dry April day, so we decided it was the perfect opportunity for a day trip to Inishowen. The plan was simple: leave Sligo early, drive north towards Donegal, and complete the Inishowen 100, the sign‑posted coastal route that links all the peninsula’s most scenic viewpoints. The day before, we had reached out to our Twitter followers for recommendations — and they didn’t disappoint. We received a long list of must‑see spots, along with one repeated warning: trying to fit everything into a single day would be ambitious. As it turned out, they were absolutely right… but more on that later. After a smooth drive towards Letterkenny, our first stop was Grianán of Aileach, an ancient hilltop stone ringfort. Perched high above the landscape, it offers sweeping views across Lough Swilly, Lough Foyle and the entire Inishowen peninsula. It’s the kind of place that immediately sets the tone for the day — wild, historic and unmistakably Donegal.
After an informative stop at Grianán of Aileach, we continued along our route with our next destination: Inch Island. This quiet, scenic spot is a designated wildfowl sanctuary, and it’s especially popular with the swans and geese that migrate from Iceland each winter to enjoy Donegal’s milder climate. Even in spring, the landscape feels alive with birdlife, and the stillness of the surrounding wetlands makes it a peaceful place to pause and take in the beauty of the peninsula.
After a short walk around Inch Island, we continued north. Passing through Buncrana, we soon arrived at Dunree Fort, one of the most striking historic sites along the Inishowen 100.Perched dramatically on a rocky headland overlooking Lough Swilly, Dunree Fort began life as a Royal Navy coastal defence post during the Napoleonic Wars. Its strategic position made it a key military site for more than a century, and it remained in use right up until after the Second World War. Today, the fort has been transformed into a military museum, showcasing restored cannons, guns and fascinating exhibits about its long defensive history. The site also includes a café, a small gift shop and several coastal walking trails — all offering spectacular views across the lough and out towards the Atlantic.
Across from the café, a narrow path leads down the cliffs to a small pier — a spot that feels almost hidden. The water here is an astonishing shade of azure, the kind of colour you’d expect in the Mediterranean rather than on the wild Donegal coast. It’s one of those places you have to see to believe. After a bit of rock‑hopping at the base of Dunree Fort, we rejoined the Inishowen 100 and continued north towards Malin Head. But before reaching Ireland’s most northerly point, we had another stop on our itinerary: the Gap of Mamore. This twisty, scenic mountain pass winds its way between two towering peaks, offering dramatic views in every direction. At the top, you’ll find a collection of shrines and St. Eigne’s Holy Well, a site long associated with pilgrimage and local devotion. The combination of rugged landscape and quiet spirituality gives the place a unique atmosphere — wild yet peaceful at the same time.
Our next stop was Glenevin Waterfall Park. The trail begins beside the charming Glen House Tea Rooms, and from there the path gently follows the river as it winds its way through the narrow valley. It’s an easy, scenic walk, with little wooden bridges and shaded stretches that make the journey as enjoyable as the destination. At the end of the trail, the valley opens up to reveal Glenevin Waterfall, dropping around 30 feet into a clear plunge pool below. Surrounded by mossy rock and overhanging trees, it’s a spectacular sight — peaceful, powerful and well worth the detour.  Crossing the bridge into the village of Malin, we followed the road along the shoreline until we reached one of the true highlights of the Inishowen 100: Five Finger Strand. And honestly, what can we say that the photos don’t already capture? The beach is breathtaking. The water is crystal clear, the sand stretches out in soft golden curves, and the towering dunes — some of the highest in Europe — rise dramatically behind it. Add in the sunshine we were lucky enough to enjoy, and it felt like we had stumbled onto a hidden paradise. So we did the only sensible thing: we stopped for a good two hours. The views were too good to rush, and the kids were more than happy building sandcastles while we soaked in the scenery.
The final stop of the day was the one I had been looking forward to the most: Malin Head. I had stayed here with my parents back in 1984, when Malin Head was known mainly for its rugged coastline, great fishing and clusters of traditional thatched cottages. Coming from Antwerp, it felt like the most remote place on earth — wild, windswept and wonderfully quiet. Things have changed since then. Today, Malin Head is a signature point on the Wild Atlantic Way, and it has gained international fame as a filming location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi. And it shows. When we arrived, every available parking space at Ireland’s most northerly point was already taken, the place buzzing with visitors eager to see the dramatic landscape for themselves. Malin Head, however, remains as spectacular as ever. Where my dad and I once scrambled over rocks near Hell’s Hole with fishing rods in hand, there are now well‑built walkways guiding visitors safely along the cliffs. The views are still as raw and powerful as I remember — crashing waves, jagged rocks, and the endless Atlantic stretching out towards the horizon.
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Staring out across the reinforced stone walls towards the Inishowen Peninsula, we watched the morning sun slowly rise above Lough Swilly. On this bright April morning, it was easy to feel like royalty standing atop Grianán of Aileach, the ancient hillfort perched on the 244‑metre summit of Greenan Mountain. It takes only a little imagination to picture what life might have been like here in its occupied days. The ring of golden gorse surrounding the fort could just as easily have been Viking warriors advancing across the hillside, attempting to seize this mighty stronghold. Dating back to the 8th or 9th century, Grianán of Aileach carries centuries of stories in its stones — and standing within its circular walls, you can almost feel them echoing in the wind.
The short walk from the car park earlier that morning had already rewarded us with sweeping views over Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle. It’s easy to see why this commanding hilltop was chosen for a fort: from here, you can watch the land and sea for miles in every direction. The stone walls of Grianán of Aileach are an impressive 4.5 metres thick and rise 5 metres high, forming a perfect circular enclosure. Inside, three narrow terraces are linked by steep stone steps, creating a tiered interior that once allowed defenders to move quickly around the ramparts. Hidden within the walls are also two long passages — dark, echoing spaces that hint at the fort’s ancient past and the people who once guarded this powerful lookout.  The fort didn’t always enjoy the peaceful atmosphere it has today. It was plundered by Vikings in both 904 and 939, and its final destruction came in 1101, when it was attacked by the army of Muirchertach Ua Briain, the King of Munster. Centuries later, in the 1870s, the fort was carefully restored by Dr. Walter Bernard, giving it much of the appearance we see now. Today, visitors can reach Grianán of Aileach via an extensive car park just below the summit, with a short, newly built path leading up to the fort itself. The route is wheelchair‑friendly, making this ancient site accessible to far more people than ever before. Best of all, this impressive piece of Irish history — which our kids absolutely loved exploring — has no admission fee, making it one of the most rewarding free attractions on the Inishowen Peninsula.
Having just arrived in Galway, we couldn’t resist heading straight to Salthill — the city’s beloved seaside escape. Nestled along the edge of Galway Bay, Salthill has been drawing visitors since the early 19th century, when sea bathing first became fashionable. Back then, horse-drawn trams carried daytrippers from the city to the shore, eager to breathe in the Atlantic air. It’s hard not to imagine those old trams rattling along, bringing crowds to the beach. Today, while the trams are long gone, the tradition of seaside leisure lives on. The promenade — stretching nearly 2 km — has become the heartbeat of Salthill. Locals and visitors alike stroll, jog, and cycle along its length, often finishing with the quirky Galway ritual of “kicking the wall” at Blackrock Diving Tower. The promenade offers sweeping views across Galway Bay. On clear days, the limestone hills of the Burren shimmer in the distance, and the Aran Islands seem to float on the horizon.
From Salthill, it’s only a quick five‑minute drive into the heart of Galway. We left the car at the Cathedral, one of the city’s most striking landmarks, and set off on foot. Crossing the Corrib River, the water rushed beneath us, carrying its energy out toward the bay. The Cathedral dominates the skyline with its massive dome and stone façade. Construction began in 1958 on the site of the old city prison, and by 1965 it was complete — earning the distinction of being the last great stone cathedral built in Europe. Its architecture blends Renaissance and Romanesque styles, with stained glass windows that flood the interior with colour. Leaving the Cathedral, we crossed the Corrib River, one of the shortest yet fastest rivers in Europe. The views from the bridge are spectacular: swans gliding on the water, the city unfolding on either side, and the promise of Galway’s bustling Latin Quarter just ahead.
Just across the bridge from Galway Cathedral, we turned into Newtownsmith, a quieter corner of the city with its own hidden gem — the Friars Walkway. This charming path runs between two rivers: the mighty Corrib and the lesser‑known Friars River. The Friars waterway is a piece of early canal engineering. In 1178, the Friars of Claregalway Abbey, tired of taking long detours to access the river, began constructing this canal — a remarkable feat for its time From the walkway, it’s only a short stroll into the city’s lively streets. Galway is always alive — thanks to its large student population, the constant flow of tourists, and the street buskers who fill the air with music. Whether it’s a fiddler playing traditional tunes or a singer belting out modern hits, the city hums with energy. From the Galway races to the Galway arts festival, from the Volvo Ocean race to the Galway ironman, there is always something happening. The Spanish Arch and Galway's Living History Our walk along the Corrib brought us to one of Galway’s most iconic landmarks — the Spanish Arch. Built in 1584 as part of an extension to the old city walls, it once protected the bustling quays where merchants traded goods from Spain and beyond. Today, the Arch stands as a reminder of Galway’s centuries‑old role as a maritime gateway. Galway City Museum: Just beside the Arch lies the Galway City Museum, a treasure trove of history, science, and art. Its permanent exhibitions tell the story of Galway from medieval times to the present, while touring displays bring fresh perspectives from Ireland and abroad. It’s the perfect place to pause and connect the dots between the city’s past and its vibrant present. You can explore more about the museum on its official website ( http://www.galwaycitymuseum.ie/ ) Galway Harbour: A short stroll away, Galway Harbour hums with activity. Sailing yachts bob gently alongside fishing boats, a living testament to the city’s enduring relationship with the sea. The salty air, the sound of rigging against masts, and the sight of boats heading out into Galway Bay all add to the maritime charm that defines this city. Travel Tip: Visit the Spanish Arch in the evening. Street performers often gather nearby, and the sunset over the harbour paints the sky in golden hues — a magical blend of history and everyday life.
The Fishery Watchtower & Galway's Latin Quarter: Heading back toward Wolfetone Bridge, we stopped at the Fishery Watchtower Museum -- a fascinating slice of Galway’s maritime past. Built in 1852 by the Ashworth Brothers, the tower served for more than 120 years as a station to monitor fish stocks and prevent illegal fishing. It also operated as a draft netting service station, keeping a close watch on the Corrib’s rich salmon runs. Today, entrance is free, and guided tours bring the building’s history to life, making it a hidden gem for curious visitors. The Latin Quarter: From the Watchtower, we wandered towards Quay Street and the Latin Quarter, Galway’s busiest and most vibrant area. The cobbled streets buzzed with energy — tourists exploring, students chatting, and street performers filling the air with music. This part of the city is a feast for the senses, with an abundance of pubs, restaurants, and cafés spilling onto the lanes. We popped into Fat Freddy's, a long‑standing favourite, for a quick lunch. The atmosphere was casual and welcoming, the perfect pause before diving back into the lively rhythm of the Quarter.
Charlie Byrne's Bookshop: Galway’s vibrancy isn’t just in its music and streets — it’s in its shops too. Among the colourful storefronts, one stands out as a true treasure: Charlie Byrne's Bookshop. This independent haven for book lovers is a labyrinth of literature, with hundreds of thousands of titles covering every imaginable subject. Step inside and you’ll find multiple rooms stacked from floor to ceiling, each corner inviting you to linger a little longer. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with the quiet rustle of pages and the occasional discovery of a rare gem. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time, wandering through shelves that feel endless. You can explore more about the shop on its official website: ( http://charliebyrne.com/ )
With our day drawing to an end, one thing is clear — Galway is a must-visit city along the Wild Atlantic Way.
It’s a place that balances contrasts beautifully: large enough to surprise you with hidden gems, yet small enough to explore in a single day. From seaside strolls in Salthill to the grandeur of the Cathedral, from the echoes of history at the Spanish Arch to the lively rhythm of the Latin Quarter, Galway offers a tapestry of experiences. You can sample delicious food, browse colourful shops, listen to street buskers filling the air with music, or simply soak in the vibrant atmosphere that makes the city pulse with life. Galway may be a city, but it carries the warmth and intimacy of a village — a character that makes visitors feel instantly at home. Fort Dunree located along the shores of Lough Swilly was a coastal defence fortification located along the West side of Inishowen not to far from Buncrana. It was originally built by the British following the 1798 uprising of the United Irishmen who were supported by the French. The fear of a French invasion saw the built of the fort which takes up a spectacular position on an outcrop with demanding views all across Lough Swilly.
The fort houses a great military museum , the grounds contain a lot of WWI and WWII military remains which can be explored. The huge Naval artillary which were added during the 19th century are still on display. The grounds also contain a coffee shop and a gift shop.
The Saldanha suite houses a huge collection of military memorabilia and it also houses the Wildlife Discovery room. At the entrance are the remaining bones of a sperm whale where inside, you find a blackboard with an inventory of all wildlife observed around the museum during the last few months.  There are plenty of walks through the grounds, but just across from the coffee shop is a small path leading down to a rocky beach with the clearest water you can imagine. There is also a pier which opens up some amazing view towards the fort.
This tourist attractions is worthwhile a visit and will be a success especially with kids. Coney Island sits quietly between Rosses Point and Strandhill in County Sligo, a small island with a big sense of adventure. You can reach it the traditional way — by boat from Rosses Point — but the most memorable route is the one that only appears at low tide. When the tide recedes, a natural causeway across Cummeen Strand is revealed, allowing you to walk or drive the 2.5 km stretch to the island. The path is marked by 14 stone pillars, standing like silent guides across the sand, leading you safely from the mainland to the island. It’s a surreal experience: part beach walk, part pilgrimage, part stepping into another world.
In summer, Coney Island becomes lively enough with seasonal residents returning to their holiday homes, but once winter arrives, the island settles into a deep quiet. With no shops and only one small pub — the wonderfully traditional Michael J. Ward’s — life here moves at a slower, gentler pace. One of the best ways to experience the island is by taking the loop walk around its western side. Start by turning onto the small road signposted for the beach. The lane winds between peaceful pastures where cows graze lazily, and on a sunny day the views towards Knocknarea are nothing short of spectacular. When you reach the beach, turn right towards the fields and follow the curve of the headland. As you round the point, the landscape opens dramatically: the Ox Mountains rise in the distance, the village of Carney comes into view, and even Blackrock Lighthouse seems close enough to touch. It’s a beautiful, remote stretch of coastline — the kind of place where you feel like you’ve stepped out of time.
Turning around the headland, the views shift once again — this time opening towards Rosses Point, with the dramatic outline of Benbulben rising behind it. It was here, on a grassy patch overlooking the water, that we settled down for an improvised picnic and soaked in one of the most peaceful panoramas in Sligo. Coney Island is a true hidden gem: easy enough to reach, yet somehow still overlooked compared to Ireland’s more famous islands. That’s part of its charm. The only thing you absolutely must keep in mind is the tide. If you misjudge it, you may find yourself staying a few hours longer than planned — though that’s hardly a disaster when Michael J. Ward’s pub is there to welcome you with a pint and a story. For those who want to linger even longer, we can strongly recommend spending a summer weekend on the island. Bring a tent, enjoy the loop walk, watch the sunset over the Atlantic, or simply relax and let the quiet settle in. With its open skies, gentle waves and sense of remoteness, Coney Island is the kind of place that invites you to slow down and stay a while.
Not too far from Clifden lies one of the Wild Atlantic Way Signature Discovery Points — Derrigimlagh. This remote, windswept landscape is home to two remarkable milestones in early 20th‑century transatlantic history. The first, and the reason we found ourselves wandering through this barren beauty, was to walk in the footsteps of Guglielmo Marconi. After successfully transmitting the first wireless message from Cornwall to Newfoundland, Marconi set his sights even further west. Derrigimlagh, just outside Clifden, was about as far west as he could go — the perfect location for his next ambitious wireless station. But back to the beginning. After parking the car, we crossed a raised walkway towards the Wild Atlantic Way waymarker. The walkway itself is worth mentioning: the land here is deep bog, which means it can be heavily waterlogged depending on the season. A traditional path would crack and sink over time. Instead, engineers created a floating, segmented boardwalk that rests on the bog’s surface and moves gradually with the landscape. It’s a clever solution that allows visitors to explore this unique environment without damaging it — or disappearing into it.
A vibrant and colourful display welcomes you to the Derrigimlagh Bog site, introducing its remarkable history through interactive panels. This is also the starting point of a 5 km looped walk across the bog, with seven stop points that explain the site’s significance. And a word of advice — bring a decent jacket. In this part of the country, rain can arrive without warning. Thankfully, six of the seven stops double as shelters, so you’re never too exposed to the elements. To continue the story: Marconi established his commercial transatlantic wireless station here in 1907. It must have been an extraordinary sight in such a barren landscape — a massive condenser house, a huge power house, and an enormous aerial system dominating the bog. A railway line even ran across the 300‑acre site to transport workers and equipment. Because of its strategic importance — both financially and scientifically — the station was heavily guarded. During the First World War, large numbers of British soldiers were stationed here, controlling access to the site and monitoring the flow of people and goods. The railway became essential, moving staff and supplies efficiently across the sprawling complex. Today, only traces of that once‑bustling hub remain, but the sense of history is unmistakable. Walking through Derrigimlagh, you can almost imagine the hum of machinery, the crackle of early wireless signals, and the sheer ambition that once filled this wild corner of Connemara.
Walking further along the boardwalk, we uncovered even more fascinating details about the Marconi site. One story that stood out was the day James Joyce himself arrived here in August, hoping to interview Marconi for an article. Despite his literary fame, Joyce was turned away at the gate — he didn’t have the required paperwork to access the strictly controlled station. It’s a small anecdote, but it perfectly captures just how secure and significant this remote outpost once was.
Walking further along the bog road, the views opened up beautifully. The vast bogland, dotted with small lakes and framed by distant mountains, creates a landscape that feels both wild and timeless — a place anyone can appreciate. The honeysuckle was in full bloom, its sweet scent drifting along the path, while the blackberries were slowly turning from green to deep purple, almost ready for picking later in the year. Remember how we mentioned that Derrigimlagh was home to two major historical events? The second is just as extraordinary as Marconi’s wireless station: this is the crash‑landing site of the world’s first non‑stop transatlantic flight. On 15 June 1919, after taking off from Newfoundland some 16 hours earlier, John Alcock and Arthur Brown brought their Vickers Vimy biplane down onto this very bog, completing a journey of 1,980 nautical miles. Their daring achievement won them the £10,000 prize offered by the Daily Mail for the first non‑stop transatlantic flight. Just days after their dramatic landing, both men were honoured at Windsor Castle, where King George V knighted them for their accomplishment. Standing here, surrounded by the quiet sweep of the bog, it’s incredible to imagine the roar of that aircraft touching down after crossing an ocean — a moment that changed aviation history forever.
After an afternoon filled with history, innovation and breathtaking scenery, we decided it was time to continue our journey along the Wild Atlantic Way. What struck us most was how these waypoints offer far more than dramatic landscapes — many of them are deeply rooted in stories that shaped the modern world. Derrigimlagh is the perfect example: a place where wireless communication leapt forward and where aviation history quite literally touched down on the bog.
As we drove away, the wind still sweeping across the open landscape, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for places like this — wild, remote, and rich with tales waiting to be rediscovered. The Wild Atlantic Way is known as the longest defined coastal road in the world. The Wild Atlantic Way, a 2500km route travelling from West Cork to Donegal, has been a huge success since it's launch . The route travels along the rugged atlantic coast of Ireland, taking in all the amazing scenery, tourist attractions, villages,... But although it has been huge since it's launch, it is nothing new. The roads have always been there, the amazing scenery hasn't changed in 100's of years , but the launch of the Wild Atlantic Way was a stroke of genius. We have travelled it numerous times, and we can confirm it will give you an unforgettable experience. So what can you expect? Amazing scenery:
Tourist attractions: There are many spectacular tourist attractions along the Wild Atlantic Way - from stately homes like Westport House, Bantry House and Lissadell House to imposing castles like Glenveagh Castle and Bunratty castle, there is something new to discover every day of the week. Prefer delving even further into Ireland's history, visit places like the Ceide fields in Mayo or Dun Aonghasa on the Aran Islands. Plan your trip by visiting websites like heritage Ireland or discover Ireland
Great food and accommodation: Ireland's food scene has made huge strides in the last 10 years and is comparable with some of the best in the world. With the Atlantic on the doorstep, fresh shellfish and fish is readily available. But there is a great selection of food producers who produce some of the best cheeses, meat, honey,...
Along the route, you find loads of waypoints which are well signposted. Each waypoint is clearly marked with the WAW sign and a sign with factoids. All we can say is pack your bags, book your flights or ferry and plan your trip through the official website www.wildatlanticway.com
While driving along a quiet country road through the Burren, I admired the many stone walls which had been built around the many fields, all of them which were to my amazement stone free. You have to know, the Burren in co.Clare are a karst limestone plateau, and wherever you look, you see stones, stones and more stones. Those walls must have been painstakingly built over many years, maybe even handed down from generation to generation. At that moment, I noticed a sign to Poulnabrone tomb, so decided to park the car and investigate it further.
 Walking towards the tomb, a series of information signs guided us through the story of the landscape, the geology of the Burren, and the flora and fauna that thrive in this seemingly barren terrain.
The tomb itself is a classic portal dolmen, its two tall portal stones flanking the entrance to a rectangular, stone‑lined chamber. All of it is crowned by a single massive capstone, balanced so perfectly that it has stood here for more than five thousand years. When Poulnabrone Dolmen was excavated in the mid‑1980s — back when Duran Duran, Queen, The Cure and The Police were blasting from Walkmans and cassette players — archaeologists discovered the remains of at least 33 individuals inside the chamber. The bones, badly fragmented by time, belonged to men, women and children. Evidence suggests they were originally buried elsewhere and later transferred to the tomb as part of a ritual practice. Personal items were found alongside them: beads, stone axes, flint tools and weapons — small but powerful reminders of the people who lived, worked and honoured their dead in this ancient landscape. Ireland is rich in Neolithic history, and sites like this are scattered across the country, each with its own story. Back in the car, I continued my journey through the Burren, the lunar‑like landscape rolling out around me. And fittingly, an 80s classic came on — “Walking on the Moon” by The Police — a soundtrack that couldn’t have matched the scenery any better. On a beautiful Saturday morning, I decided to head off to co.Clare. So jumped in the car at 7am and reached Kinvara at around 9.20am. First stop, Dunguaire Castle, a castle built in 1520 by the O'Hynes Clan. Unfortunately , like most tourist attractions in Ireland, the castle is only open to visitors between April and mid September. So i just walked around the fortified castle along the path where I enjoyed the crisp morning air and watched birds wading along the shores.
The next 2 stops along the Wild Atlantic Way are Taught Beach and Flaggy Shore. Taught beach is a Blue flag beach popular with families in the summer, Flaggy Shore is the perfect location to see limestone pavements and fossils that are embedded in the rocks and enjoy the views as far as Connemara and Galway.
Continuing my journey toward the Cliffs of Moher, I passed Fanore Beach, a stunning stretch of golden sand framed by impressive dunes. The Caher River — the only river in the Burren that flows its entire length above ground — runs alongside this beautiful Blue Flag beach, adding to its unique charm. Leaving this peaceful spot behind, I travelled onward, soaking in sweeping views that stretched as far as Connemara and the Aran Islands. I’d heard rumours that the waves at Doolin Pier were particularly good that day, so I made a quick detour. The sight that greeted me was extraordinary: waves rolling in beneath rising cliffs on the far side of the pier, sunlight glinting off the water, and bright blue skies overhead. For a moment, it felt more like Hawaii or Madeira than the west coast of Ireland.
After a refreshing break, I continued my journey toward the Cliffs of Moher car park. The fee is €6 per car, but with only one pay booth open, a long queue had formed to get in. My advice is to skip the wait entirely by parking in Doolin and hiking to the cliffs along the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk — a far more enjoyable approach. Once parked, I followed the trail toward the cliffs and spent some time exploring the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre, an impressive building built into the landscape. For a deeper dive into the Cliffs of Moher, you can read my dedicated blog post: Cliffs of Moher.
Afterwards, I headed toward Lahinch, a popular surf town in Co.Clare. The beach is perfect for surfers starting off, and there were at least 50 students in the water enjoying the clear waters of the Atlantic. From here, i turned back homewards, but not without taking a detour to Kilfenora , the gateway to the amazing Burren. The Burren is one of Ireland's 6 National Parks. The Burren are dominated by a Karst landscape, and the landscape is composed of limestone pavements with cracks known as "grikes". These cracks are the perfect location for flowers to bloom and you will find in Spring and summer an abundant amount of flowers ranging from arctic, Mediterranean and alpine flowers. The Burren visitor centre was closed , so I decided to have a look at Vaughan's pub. The pub featured in the Father Ted episode "Are you right there father Ted?" .
My last stop for the day was Poulnabrone Dolmen, probably one of Ireland's most photographed portal Dolmen. I enjoyed co.Clare immensely , the weather turned out to be amazing, the only 2 issues not relating to co.Clare, but in general is that all tourist attractions are closed until April, the second one was that i wasn't able to get any stamps for my Wild Atlantic Way passport as Post Offices close at 1pm. When i asked the information desk at 1 of Irelands major tourist attractions (Cliffs of Moher) if they had the stamps, the answer was no.
County Mayo never fails to surprise, and this visit was no different. This time, we set our sights on Achill Island — the largest island off the coast of Ireland, yet easily reached by a bridge that carries you straight into Achill Sound. Achill is shaped by rugged mountains, wide stretches of peat bog, towering sea cliffs, and of course, its famous Blue Flag beaches. Our final destination was Keem Strand, a secluded, breathtaking beach tucked away at the very western tip of the island. After rolling across the bridge into Achill Sound, we stopped at the tourist office and post office to collect a few more stamps for our Wild Atlantic Way passport. Once through the village, we turned left onto the L1405, beginning our journey deeper into the island. Our first stop: the Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint “An Cheibh Bheag” — Cloghmore Pier at Kildavnet. A quiet, atmospheric spot, it’s the perfect introduction to the raw beauty that defines Achill.
From the pier, you can even catch a ferry to Clare Island, a lovely detour if you have the time. Standing nearby is Grace O’Malley’s Castle, a 15th‑century tower house linked to the legendary pirate queen herself. It’s believed that Grace O’Malley established this stronghold while she ruled the waters of the west coast during the 16th century. The tower rises 12 metres high and contains three storeys. You can step inside the structure, which gave us the perfect chance to take a short break, admire the bay and snap a few photos. It’s a simple building, but knowing who once commanded these shores makes it feel incredibly atmospheric.
Carrying on, we followed the road around the headland and were immediately greeted with sweeping views towards Clare Island. The sea was rough that day, with powerful waves crashing against the rocks in dramatic bursts of white spray. A little further along, we reached Ashleam Bay, framed by striking white cliffs. This is another Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint, “Cuan na hAisleime.” From the lookout above the bay, a series of sharp hairpin bends snakes down towards the pebble beach, where the Atlantic hammers the shoreline with relentless energy. It’s one of those places where you can feel the raw force of nature all around you. Continuing our journey, we rejoined the main road and turned towards Keel. As you drive around Achill Island, you’ll quickly recognise some of the scenery from the blockbuster film “The Banshees of Inisherin,” which was partly shot here. With landscapes this dramatic, it’s easy to imagine how many more visitors will be drawn to this stunning part of Ireland after seeing it on screen.
One thing we quickly noticed on Achill Island is just how many sheep roam freely along the roads. Even in the village of Keel, sheep were casually wandering about as if they owned the place. Keel itself was very quiet as we drove through — probably because it was early February — but you can easily imagine how lively it becomes in summer. With its long, stunning beach and all the watersports on offer, the population must swell tenfold once the warmer months arrive.
To reach Keem Strand, you follow a spectacular clifftop road that winds its way out of Keel. The views across the Atlantic are nothing short of breathtaking. As we approached Keem Bay, the sun finally broke through the clouds, lighting up the landscape in a stunning display of colour — from the azure blue of the water to the bright white sand of the strand below. Keem Bay itself is a perfect horseshoe-shaped cove, flanked on both sides by steep cliffs. It’s hard to imagine now, but this peaceful spot was once the centre of a thriving fishing industry. Local fishermen used traditional currachs, and the waters around Achill were frequented by basking sharks, which were caught here between the 1950s and 1980s. Keem Strand marked the end of our Achill adventure. Achill Island is full of dramatic contrasts — crashing waves, rugged cliffs, and pristine Blue Flag beaches — but there’s something truly special about Keem. Standing there, looking out over the vast expanse of water, surrounded by shifting colours and silence, you can almost believe you’re the only person on the island. Of course, that solitude was probably helped by the fact that it was February. Judging by the size of the car park, Keem Strand is clearly a very popular summer destination, and it’s easy to see why.
Mullaghmore is a small, picturesque fishing village in Co. Sligo, and just beside it lies a beautiful Blue Flag beach. Thanks to its sheltered position, the water here is usually calm — perfect for a peaceful stroll or a relaxing swim. But continue around the headland and the mood changes completely. Here, you can witness the full power of the Atlantic Ocean, with waves that crash against the rocks in dramatic bursts of spray. It’s a striking contrast: tranquil beach on one side, raw ocean energy on the other — and it’s exactly what makes Mullaghmore such a memorable stop along the Wild Atlantic Way.
In recent years, Mullaghmore has earned a reputation as one of the best big‑wave surfing locations in the world. When the weather and swell conditions line up, some of the planet’s top big‑wave surfers travel here to take on its towering walls of water. This is where you’ll see tow‑in surfing at its most extreme, with surfers being pulled into massive waves by jet skis before dropping into swells that can rise higher than a house. It’s a spectacular sight — raw Atlantic power meeting pure human skill and courage.
But Mullaghmore offers far more than just surfing. The headland is a playground for all kinds of water‑based activities — from sailing and coasteering to sea‑fishing along the rugged coastline. Take a leisurely walk around the headland. As the sun begins to set, the sky often shifts into incredible shades of orange and pink, casting warm light across the water. On clear evenings, the views stretch all the way to Slieve League in Donegal. It’s a peaceful, unforgettable way to end a day in one of Sligo’s most spectacular coastal spots.
Old Head, located just outside the town of Louisburgh in Co. Mayo, is a gem along the Wild Atlantic Way. Old Head Beach is beautiful in every season, offering sweeping views towards Croagh Patrick and shelter from the elements thanks to the surrounding cliffs and native woodland. This woodland is especially remarkable — it’s one of Ireland’s few remaining coastal Atlantic oak forests, stretching right down to the shoreline and creating a dramatic, almost ancient backdrop to this Mayo beach. The combination of golden sand, deep green woodland, and mountain views makes Old Head a place that feels both peaceful and wild at the same time.
But Old Head is more than just a beach — it’s also home to the Old Head Blueway, a designated area perfect for a wide range of watersports. The pristine Atlantic waters here are ideal for snorkelling, giving you a chance to explore the underwater world of the Wild Atlantic Way. Beneath the surface, you can spot different types of seaweed swaying with the tide, darting fish, curious crabs and even the occasional sea urchin. It’s a peaceful, immersive way to experience the coastline from an entirely new perspective.
As part of the Old Head Blueway, visitors can enjoy both kayak and snorkel trails, each offering a different way to experience this stunning stretch of coastline.
Kayak Trails: There are three kayak routes, each suited to different experience levels: a) Old Head to Lecanvy Pier – 5.5 km (Beginner‑friendly) This gentle route passes several small beaches and rocky outcrops, making it ideal for beginners or anyone looking for a relaxed paddle. b) Old Head to Calla Beach – 5 km (Experienced kayakers) A more exposed trail that takes you along dramatic cliffs and past a series of impressive sea caves. The open water conditions make this route better suited to those with experience. c) Western Trail – 3 km (Intermediate/experienced) This shorter route extends beyond the headland into more open water, so some kayaking experience is recommended. Snorkel Trail: The snorkel trail runs along Old Head Beach, beginning at the pier and travelling north toward the western headland. Along the way, snorkellers can explore kelp forests, rocky habitats and the rich marine life of Clew Bay. Once you reach the headland, you can choose to walk back along the beach or snorkel back through the shallows, depending on the tide and conditions. Under the watchful eye of Queen Maeve’s grave on the summit of Knocknarea, we arrived at the Carrowmore Megalithic Tombs in Co. Sligo. What makes Carrowmore so remarkable is that it is the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland. The site is managed by the Office of Public Works, and a small but informative visitor centre welcomes guests. Today, around 30 monuments survive, though it’s believed that as many as 60 tombs once stood here. Sadly, many were lost during the 18th and 19th centuries due to quarrying and field clearing. The visitor centre opens from March to October, offering both guided tours and self‑guided multilingual options. Most of the surviving tombs are satellite tombs, arranged in a great circle around the central monument, Listoghil (Cairn 51). These smaller tombs typically consist of a central megalithic burial chamber surrounded by a stone circle, creating a landscape that feels both ancient and deeply atmospheric.
Cairn 51, also known as Listoghil, has been carefully restored and stands as the most impressive monument at Carrowmore, framed beautifully by Benbulben in the distance. Erected around 3500 BC, this central cairn measures an impressive 34 metres in diameter. At its heart lies a distinctive box‑shaped chamber, notable for containing the only megalithic art discovered at Carrowmore. It’s a powerful focal point within the cemetery, drawing together the surrounding satellite tombs and offering a striking glimpse into Ireland’s ancient past.
We met the lovely Marian, Ellen and Joanna who were visiting the tombs as well. Marian used to run the Red Cottage B&B in Sligo town where now it is her daughter Karen who runs this busy B&B (https://www.redcottagesligo.com/). Her friend Ellen was over for a visit from Tipperary where Joanna was over from Poland to visit some friends. Sligo is worth a visit, and if you are interested in megalithic history, you won't be disappointed with all the avaliable tourist attractions... ( www.choosesligo.com)
On a Baltic cold morning, we set off to explore south County Sligo — a part of the county that often slips under the radar but absolutely shouldn’t. It may be the lesser‑visited side of Sligo, yet it has an incredible amount to offer, and truly deserves a place on every traveller’s bucket list. Starting out from Sligo town, our route brought us as far as Beltra, where we turned right after the village onto the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. After roughly three kilometres, we took another right turn toward Portavade. Although it’s a cul‑de‑sac road, the reward at the end is more than worth it: spectacular views across Ballysadare Beach and Strandhill, a sweeping panorama that immediately sets the tone for the beauty of South Sligo.
Our next stop along the coastal route was Aughris Head. At Aughris pier, you will find the start of the fabulous Aughris Head walk which follows the rocky shoreline ending at a small but impressive beach which at the best of times is very quiet. The walk gives you views across Sligo Bay towards Knocknarea and the Dartry mountains and on a clear day as far as Donegal (Slieve League)
After having crossed the beach, we found some small sea caves which are great for taking some dramatic pictures towards the Dartry mountains. After having returned to the car, we headed back to the coastal route to stop at our next scenic location - Trawee Beach.
Our next destination was Easkey, but the landscape along the way was simply too beautiful to ignore. We found ourselves stopping several times to take more photos — the kind of views that make you slow down, breathe, and appreciate the quiet magic of a coastal drive. The roads were peaceful, the scenery spectacular, and honestly, what more could you ask for on a relaxing journey through South Sligo. We had planned to go as far as Easkey and enjoy lunch at Pudding Row, but unfortunately an event was taking place and it was closed for the day. Still, Easkey itself is a fascinating village with plenty to offer. It’s home to one of Sligo’s best surfing spots, drawing surfers from far and wide. It’s also the location of Easkey Tower and the famous Split Rock — a massive boulder, roughly 6.5 metres by 2.5 metres, cleaved cleanly in two. Geologists believe the rock was carried down from the Ox Mountains by retreating glaciers at the end of the Ice Age. But local folklore tells a far more dramatic tale. According to legend, Fionn Mac Cumhaill stood atop the Ox Mountains when he was challenged by a strongman named Cicsatoin to a rock‑throwing contest. The goal was to reach the sea. Fionn’s rock fell short, and in a fit of frustration, he drew his sword and split the boulder in two — creating the Split Rock we see today.  From Easkey, we continued towards Dromore West, but once again the scenery slowed us down. The landscape was too beautiful to simply drive through — wide Atlantic views, rolling fields, and that quiet Sligo charm that makes you want to stop the car and just take it all in. A few more photo stops were inevitable. Reaching Dromore West, we made a quick detour to see the Dunneill River, which cascades over a series of lovely waterfalls. A stairway leads you down towards the falls, offering great vantage points to watch the water tumble over the rocks. For those feeling a bit more adventurous, a scenic riverside walk continues further along the river, giving you a peaceful and immersive way to enjoy this hidden corner of South Sligo.
Heading back towards Sligo town, we passed a sign guiding us to the Beach Bar. Being hungry, we decided to chance our luck and have a quick lunch. Arriving at the beach bar (www.thebeachbarsligo.com/ ) , you can't but notice the beauty of this old charm thatched pub which sits literally on the beach. We were in luck, just when we arrived, the door was opened. Inside, a warm open fire welcomed us on this particular cold day.
We opted for the seafood chowder, served piping hot with two slices of homemade bread. It turned out to be one of the best chowders I’ve ever tasted — packed with generous chunks of fish and so hearty it became a meal in itself. After warming up by the fire, we hit the road again, this time turning away from the coast and heading towards the Ox Mountains. More specifically, we followed the signposts from Skreen to a route known as Ladies Brae.
Ladies Brae is a spectacular drive that cuts right through the heart of the Ox Mountains. The only living souls you’re likely to meet are the sheep, who glance up lazily before shuffling to the side of the road. It’s peaceful, remote, and beautifully wild — exactly what South Sligo does best. The Ox Mountains and their surrounding landscape are also a playground for adventure lovers. If you’re feeling energetic, wildwetadventures.ie or oxmountainadventurecamp.ie can introduce you to the unspoiled beauty of this rugged region through a range of outdoor activities. So as you can see, it’s incredible how much you can experience in South Sligo in just a few hours. One moment you’re standing on a windswept beach, the next you’re walking beside waterfalls, and soon after you’re driving through mountain passes. South Sligo is diverse, ever‑changing, and its scenery is nothing short of breathtaking. As a youngster back in the 80's, I visited Lissadell House (http://lissadellhouse.com/) in County Sligo with my parents. If my memory serves me right, I remember Lissadell House in the 1980s as a place of dark, damp rooms — a grand old house that had clearly seen better days. Roll the clock forward thirty years, and the transformation is remarkable. Now owned by Constance Cassidy, Edward Walsh, and their family, the house has been lovingly restored to its former elegance. Arriving around 2pm, I parked in the designated car park and walked the short distance to the beautifully restored Coach House, where you’ll find the ticket office, exhibitions and the welcoming tea rooms. It’s the perfect introduction to a house that has been brought back to life with care and passion.
As I was an hour early for the guided tour of the house, I decided to begin with the exhibitions on Countess Markievicz, The Voice of Women, and the 1916 Rising. The collection of photographs, letters and books is remarkable — a rare and intimate glimpse into Ireland’s revolutionary past. Everything is beautifully displayed within the restored first floor of the Coach House, a space that now feels bright, elegant and full of life compared to the Lissadell I remember from decades ago.
The 1916 Rising exhibition features stunning ceiling paintings by the talented Gareth Boyle, adding a dramatic artistic touch to the space. The historical memorabilia is beautifully presented, offering clear and compelling insights into the Easter Rising — from Countess Markievicz’s military plans to an early replica of the Irish flag. It’s an educational and thoughtfully curated glimpse into Irish history. With a little time still left before the house tour began, I headed to the Marine Tea Room for a coffee and a slice of carrot cake. The name is perfectly chosen: the room is filled with paintings of boats and intricate model ships. One particularly fascinating feature is the horse bath at the back of the tea room — once used to wash the horses after a long day in the saddle. It’s a charming reminder of Lissadell’s working past, tucked into a beautifully restored space.
It was finally time to make my way to the house. Walking along the path, I was greeted by a carpet of bright yellow daffodils and sweeping views across the bay — a spectacular welcome in itself. And then, there it was: Lissadell House, standing in all its restored glory. A dark grey, almost austere block of a building, set right in the middle of beautifully landscaped gardens. The exterior is simple and unadorned, its greyness stark against the vivid colours surrounding it — the lush green grass, the golden daffodils, the azure Atlantic, and Knocknarea rising majestically in the distance. At the front door, our guide for the afternoon greeted us warmly. Stepping into the entrance hall, it becomes immediately clear just how lovingly this house has been restored by its current owners. From the hall, we moved into the billiard room, where we were introduced to the story of the Gore‑Booth family, whose history is woven deeply into the fabric of Lissadell.
From here, we continued into the Gallery, an impressive oval room once used for parties and grand events. The space is dominated by a magnificent marble fireplace and two enormous gasoliers — gas‑fired chandeliers suspended from the soaring 65‑foot ceiling. It’s a room designed to impress, and it still does. From the Gallery, we moved into the Drawing Room and the Bow Room, both beautifully restored and filled with light. These rooms offer some of the finest views on the estate, looking out towards Benbulben and Knocknarea — a reminder of just how spectacular the setting of Lissadell truly is.
A wonderful selection of paintings and books can be found throughout these rooms. It’s fascinating to think that during the 1960s and 70s, these two elegant spaces were where the Gore‑Booth siblings lived in near‑poverty, doing their best to keep just these rooms heated while the rest of the vast house remained unoccupied and freezing. The grandeur of Lissadell becomes fully apparent again in the Dining Room, where a huge dining table commands the centre of the space. Nearby stands the old service lift, once used to bring food up from the basement kitchens. Beside it is one of the house’s more unusual treasures — a stuffed bear, brought back by the Gore‑Booth family from one of their many travels. It’s an unexpected but charming reminder of the adventurous spirit that shaped Lissadell’s past.
After the dining room, we made our way down to the basement, where the kitchen and servants’ quarters were once located. What’s striking about Lissadell is that the servants’ rooms were unusually large and bright, a rare feature in houses of this era. The kitchen itself — also spacious and filled with natural light — was the heart of the operation, where meals for the Gore‑Booth family were prepared each day. One of the most fascinating features in the basement is the old communication system, a clever network of signals used throughout the house. With it, anyone in the living quarters above could indicate if they needed food, a drink, or assistance. It’s a small but revealing glimpse into the daily rhythm of life in this remarkable home.
At the end of the tour, we were led out through the servants’ exit — a long, sparsely lit tunnel once used daily by the household staff. Emerging from the dim passageway, I found myself at the edge of Lissadell’s gardens. From here, I followed the path toward the lovingly restored Alpine Gardens. Fully enclosed by high walls, the garden is sheltered from the strong Atlantic breeze, creating a peaceful micro‑climate. Even though it was still early in the growing season, splashes of colour were already appearing between the rocks, hinting at the vibrant display still to come.
Walking back toward the Coach House, I passed the walled Victorian kitchen garden, where neat rows of young lettuce were already planted for the season ahead. Tall fruit trees lined the central path, their branches forming a graceful canopy over the garden. It’s easy to see why Lissadell House has become Sligo’s number one tourist attraction — a place that remained quietly under the radar for years. The transformation is remarkable, and the dedication of its current owners has turned Lissadell into the premier destination it is today. And yet, there is still so much more to Lissadell than what I experienced on this visit — from self‑catering accommodation to the clam and oyster farm, and plenty of stories still waiting to be told. But those are adventures for another day.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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