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Getting to Sintra is straightforward, but once you reach the outskirts, things can get chaotic. Traffic jams are a daily occurrence, largely due to the town’s immense popularity with tourists.
A far more enjoyable way to reach Sintra is by taking the Sintra Atlântico tram, which runs between Praia de Maçãs and Sintra. It’s scenic, relaxed, and saves you from the gridlock that often surrounds the town.
The historic tram line first opened in 1904, but the trams running today date from the 1930s. Step inside and you’re greeted by all the original features—wooden benches, brass dials, and that unmistakable vintage charm. Riding the tram is simply fun. It’s slow, it’s bumpy, it’s noisy, but that’s exactly what makes it special. As it climbs gently from the coast toward Sintra, the 13‑kilometre journey takes around 40 minutes, winding through the rural landscapes of Colares. This region is a delight for wine lovers. Colares is famous for its sandy, phylloxera‑free soils and ungrafted vines, producing remarkable, tannic red wines from the local Ramisco grape. It’s a unique terroir—and the tram gives you a front‑row seat to it. We took the tram at Christmas and were lucky enough to have it entirely to ourselves—apart from the two drivers expertly juggling sticks and pedals to bring the vintage carriage safely to a halt near the MUSA museum. It’s such a hassle‑free way to reach Sintra, sparing you the stress of navigating traffic or hunting for a parking spot in this incredibly popular town. For more information, visit the following website: https://sintratlantico-casadoelectrico.weebly.com/
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Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena) is a breathtaking, colourful Romanticist castle located in São Pedro de Penaferrim. Perched high on a hill in the Serra de Sintra, it overlooks the charming town below and stands as one of Portugal’s most iconic landmarks. The easiest way to reach the palace is by taking bus 434, which runs frequently from Sintra town and stops at all of the area’s main tourist attractions. This designated tourist bus connects Sintra’s palaces and castles, and at €11.50 it’s the most affordable and straightforward option for getting to Pena Palace. The ticket also gives you access to all Sintra buses for 24 hours, which is great value—just keep in mind that demand for this route is extremely high, especially during the summer months.You can also drive to the palace, but be prepared for narrow, winding roads up the Serra de Sintra and the challenge of navigating Sintra’s traffic‑free historic centre. For most visitors, the bus is by far the less stressful choice. You can also reach the palace by taxi or Tuk Tuk, though both options are considerably more expensive than taking bus 434. Another way to reach the castle is on foot via the Caminho de Santa Maria, a steep path that winds steadily uphill. The walk takes around an hour and can be challenging in the summer heat, but the reward is worth it—along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful viewpoints and a much quieter, more atmospheric approach to the castle.
Since it was only a few days after New Year’s Eve, we assumed Portugal’s most popular tourist attraction would be relatively quiet. How wrong we were. The moment we stepped off bus 434, it became clear that this place draws crowds all year round.Thankfully, buying tickets was effortless. Entrance passes are purchased at automated terminals where you simply choose your preferred entry time, make the payment, and wait a moment for the tickets to print. It’s quick, straightforward, and saves you from queuing at a counter. After having our tickets handed over at the gate, we walked slowly up the hill where we reached the gates of the Palace. Here we joined the queue to enter the castle. Thirty minutes later, we were allowed to enter the palace. The site where the Pena Palace is located used to be a medieval chapel dedicated to our lady of Pena until the king ordered the built of a monastery. The great Lisbon earthquake destroyed most of the monastery with exception of the chapel. During this time, Portugal's king Ferdinand 2 acquired the ruined monastery and its surroundings and started the built of the Pena Palace as we know it today. The main purpose of the Palace was to serve as a summer residence for the king. After his dead, his second wife Elisa Hensler sold the palace to king Luis. In 1889, it was purchased by the Portuguese state and was later classified as a national monument.
The grandeur of the palace is evident in every room. From lavishly decorated walls and ceilings to the ornate furnishings, no expense was spared in creating a residence designed to impress. Yet it’s the exterior that truly steals the show. With its striking blue azulejos and bold yellow‑and‑red colour scheme, the palace blends an eclectic mix of architectural styles into one unforgettable silhouette.
While walking through the vast Palace, we admired the chapel, the Royal Dining room, the kitchen and many other rooms. Each of these rooms is decorated with elaborate stucos, painted walls in trompe-l'oeil and stunning tiles,....
The area surrounding the palace is just as captivating. Pena Park stretches across more than 200 hectares of forested, uneven terrain, filled with plant species from North America, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand. As you follow the winding paths downhill, you’ll come across small mountain streams, tranquil ponds, and hidden corners that feel worlds away from the busy palace above. Among the park’s botanical highlights are towering sequoias, elegant magnolias, and ancient ginkgo trees. One of the most enchanting spots is the fern garden, home to an impressive collection of ferns and tree ferns—an absolute must‑see for nature lovers.
Sintra is one of those rare places where nature, history, and imagination collide. From the vibrant towers of Pena Palace to the lush, otherworldly forests of Pena Park, every corner feels like stepping into a fairytale. The journey itself—whether by vintage tram, scenic footpath, or winding mountain road—adds to the sense of adventure.
What makes Sintra truly special is the contrast: grand palaces perched on dramatic hilltops, quiet forest trails lined with exotic trees, and sweeping views that stretch all the way to the Atlantic. Tucked off the beaten track between Lisbon and Coimbra lies Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros, a sparsely populated region in central Portugal. This chalk‑rich landscape is a favourite among speleologists, drawn by the many caves carved over centuries by underground rivers. Several of these caves are now open to visitors, including the Grutas de Mira de Aire, the largest cave system in Portugal. The nature reserve is ideal for cycling, hiking, or simply exploring by car. As you travel through the park, you’ll notice hundreds of dry‑stone walls marking old field boundaries and vast stretches of hardy cork trees—one of the few species able to thrive in these dry, limestone soils.
This area is the real Portugal, the small villages haven't been touched by tourism, the locals are glad to have a chat about everday life, the small bars & restaurants have the authentic Portuguese dishes on offer,.... Goats roam freely in the barren landscape, just lifting their heads whenever the odd car passes by their remote grazing spot.
The day we visited this remote nature reserve, the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind. Shifting from showers to bursts of sunshine, it painted the landscape in dramatic colours and ever‑changing light. Despite being largely overlooked by mainstream tourism, this region is a must‑visit if you appreciate nature, authenticity, and true tranquillity.
Foz do Arelho is a small seaside town not far from Caldas da Rainha, roughly an hour north of Lisbon. Set between the Óbidos Lagoon and the wild Atlantic Ocean, it has long been a seasonal holiday retreat, once especially favoured by Portugal’s wealthy families.Where the lagoon meets the ocean lies a spectacular stretch of beach. On the lagoon side, the water is calm and ideal for swimming or paddle‑boarding. On the Atlantic side, the waves are powerful and the winds often strong, creating a dramatic contrast that makes this coastline so memorable. During the summer holiday, the beach at the lagoon side is frequented by schools who play here during the cooler morning sun. This area of Foz Do Artleho has a lot of modern houses which are mainly holiday homes. There is also a camping which is very busy and in our view not the nicest one with the exception of the fabulous lagoon views. But the problem is that the camping is very busy and the campervans look a bit like a bunch of sardines squeezed into a tin.
As you follow the road toward Caldas da Rainha, the route climbs gently away from the Atlantic and leads into the most charming part of Foz do Arelho. This older section of town is where you’ll find traditional pastelarias, small bars, and a handful of unpretentious restaurants. One of them is Café Central. It may not be the most stylish or atmospheric spot, but the food more than makes up for it. Classic Portuguese dishes are the highlight, and the place is especially popular with locals—always a good sign—particularly on weekends. This region of Portugal couldn’t be more different from the Algarve. It’s quiet, authentic, and blissfully free from crowds. It’s the kind of place where you can enjoy warm hospitality, delicious food, and plenty of sunshine without the noise of mass tourism. The area of Foz do Arleho lends itself perfectly for walking. In particular, an evening stroll from the old town towards the beach and from there uphill along the R. Visc. Morais along the new boardwalks is perfect to see the last glimpse of the evening sun. Another lovely walk we enjoyed was along the Óbidos Lagoon. Here, small fishing boats rest quietly on the water, waiting for the next day’s catch. The lagoon is also a popular spot for watersports, offering opportunities to try kayaking, surfing, stand‑up paddling, and more. What we appreciated most about this area was the tranquillity. It’s the kind of place where you can mingle with locals in a neighbourhood bar or pastelaria and feel the authentic, unhurried rhythm of everyday life. A place where you can enjoy the Portuguese friendliness, the hospitality or just the beauty of the rugged coastline. With easy flights to Lisbon, iot is a must visit location. The short drive from the airport to Foz Do Arleho is easy and quick, and it must be said that the greater area around Foz Do Arleho is one that needs to be discovered. From monasteries ( http://www.outdoorfitnesssligo.com/destinations-further-afield-travel-blog/alcobaca-monastery) to the fabulous Berlenga Islands off the coast of Peniche ( http://www.outdoorfitnesssligo.com/destinations-further-afield-travel-blog/berlengas) , there is something new to discover every day of the week.
After having arrived the evening before in Foz Do Arelho, we decided to stay local for our first day in the Estremadura and Ribatejo region of Portugal. Estremadura and Ribatejo have an amazing historical past. From the walled town of Obidos to the monastery at Alcobaca, the area is steeped in history. On this first day, we decided to drive the short distance to Salir Do Porto, home to a 49 meter high dune. We decided to park the car closer to the town of Sao Martinho do porto which together with Salir Do porto is located at a shell shaped lagoon. The lagoon is connected to the Atlantic by a small passage between the hills. The beach is flanked by a boardwalk which runs through the dunes towards Salir Do Porto.
After following the boardwalk along the full length of the beach, we eventually reached a river lagoon that separated us from the towering dune. Nearby, there’s a sheltered river beach that’s especially popular with families looking to cool off in the refreshing water. A wooden bridge spans the river, linking the boardwalk to the car park at Salir do Porto. The dune itself is a highlight—great fun for kids and a surprisingly good workout for parents. Climbing its 49‑metre height is no small feat, especially under the blazing Portuguese sun, but the views and the sense of accomplishment make it well worth the effort.
On this overcast July day, we found ourselves walking uphill from Praça da República toward the Convento de Cristo. We were spending the day in Tomar, a charming town in Portugal’s Centro region, and the climb to the convent felt like a gentle introduction to its layered history. Following the cobblestone path that winds from the town centre to the entrance, we made steady progress, rewarded with increasingly beautiful views over the rooftops of Tomar as we gained height.
Once you pass through the imposing gate and step inside the fortified walls, you’re greeted by a beautifully maintained garden—an unexpectedly peaceful introduction to one of Portugal’s most important historical monuments. After paying the entrance fee, we found ourselves inside a UNESCO World Heritage site with centuries of stories woven into its stone. The history of the Convento de Cristo begins with Gualdim Pais, appointed Grand Master of the Knights Templar in 1157. Recognising the strategic importance of Tomar, overlooking the Rio Nabão, he established the Templars’ headquarters here. When the order was dissolved, it was reborn in 1319 as the Order of Christ, with Tomar once again becoming its base. Later, Prince Henry the Navigator transformed the complex into a palace and monastery, shaping much of what visitors see today. But enough history—this place is vast, and you could easily spend hours wandering through its courtyards, cloisters, and corridors. The first space we explored was the Washing Cloister, once used by the brothers for doing laundry. At the far end of this cloister are the quarters once occupied by Prince Henry himself, who lived here from 1420 to 1460.
Next, we stepped into the Cloister of the Cemetery, a serene space defined by its central courtyard filled with elegant trees and shrubs. The surrounding walls are lined with azulejos, giving the cloister a quiet, reflective beauty. And speaking of cloisters—there are eight in total throughout the Convento de Cristo, each with its own character and architectural style. From here, we continued into two remarkable rooms. The first was the Portocarreiros Chapel, completely covered in azulejos from floor to ceiling, creating an almost immersive blue‑and‑white world. Nearby, we found 17th‑century wall panels decorated in a distinctive diamond‑tip pattern, another example of the extraordinary craftsmanship preserved within these walls.
Afterwards, we made our way into the Charola, an extraordinary piece of architecture and the spiritual heart of the convent. The circular chapel is richly decorated from floor to ceiling with statues, gilded details, and vivid paintings that seem to glow in the dim light. Entering the Charola from the Manueline church, the first thing that captures your attention is the magnificent decorative portal—an intricate masterpiece that sets the tone for the splendour within. The second room we entered was the New Sacristy, built in the late 16th century. Its most striking feature is the elaborate vaulted ceiling, richly decorated with the new Cross of Christ, the armillary sphere, and the royal coat of arms. The craftsmanship is extraordinary, and the symbolism woven into the stonework reflects the power and prestige of the Order of Christ during Portugal’s Age of Discoveries.
And just when you think you’ve seen the most elaborate decorations the Convento de Cristo has to offer, you come face‑to‑face with the Manueline Window on the west façade of the convent church. It’s one of the most extraordinary and iconic examples of the Manueline style, bursting with hyper‑realistic, naturalistic motifs—ropes, knots, coral forms, and maritime symbols carved with astonishing detail. Standing before it, you can’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship and imagination that went into creating such a masterpiece.
After this, we made our way into the main dormitory—a long, impressive corridor crowned with a beautifully crafted wooden ceiling. On either side were the monks’ rooms, modest yet surprisingly spacious, with a total of forty cells lining the passage. At the heart of the dormitory lies the Crossing, the point where three corridors meet, and here you’ll also find the small but significant Crossing Chapel. From there, we continued to the Hostelry Cloister, once the accommodation area for travellers passing through Tomar. Guests of higher status were lodged on the upper floor, while the ground level was reserved for the servants’ quarters, the stables, and other practical spaces needed to support the constant flow of visitors.
The Convento de Cristo is one of Portugal’s most extraordinary historical sites—a place where centuries of architecture, faith, and power blend into a single, sprawling complex. From the Templar origins to the splendour of the Order of Christ, every corner tells a story.
One day in July, we decided to leave the Portuguese coast behind and head inland to Tomar, a charming town set along the banks of the Rio Nabão. The historic centre is especially picturesque—the river tumbles over a small waterfall, its clear waters alive with fish darting playfully beneath the surface.Tomar’s beauty is matched by its remarkable history. It was the last Templar town ever commissioned and later became an important centre of Portuguese overseas expansion under Henry the Navigator in the 15th century. Walking through its streets, you can feel the layers of history that shaped both the town and the country.
The old town unfolds in a neat grid of cobbled streets, some lined with shopfronts beautifully decorated with traditional Portuguese tiles. On this particular Saturday, the area around Parque do Mouchão—a small river island linked to the town by two footbridges—was alive with the sights and sounds of a medieval festival. Costumes, music, and market stalls added a lively splash of colour to the riverside setting. We crossed the Ponte Velha over the Rio Nabão and followed Rua Serpa Pinto towards the Praça da República, the heart of Tomar’s historic centre.
Tomar’s main attraction is the Convento de Cristo, which rises above the town from its strategic hilltop position. Founded in 1160, it served as the headquarters of the Knights Templar in Portugal and later became a key stronghold of the Order of Christ. Its history and scale are so remarkable that it truly deserves a dedicated blog post of its own. From the town centre, a scenic walk leads up to the convent through the Sete Montes Woods, following a winding path shaded by trees. As you climb, the views over Tomar become increasingly impressive. About halfway up, you pass the small chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, designed by João de Castilho—a quiet, elegant stop along the route. Once we reached the Praça da República, the heart of the old town, we were immediately struck by the beautiful 17th‑century buildings surrounding the square. Their façades, symmetry, and sense of history set the perfect tone for exploring the rest of Tomar. The tallest building on the square is the Igreja de São João Baptista, easily recognised by its distinctive octagonal bell tower and its beautifully sculpted Manueline‑style doorway. Inside, the church houses several remarkable panels painted by Gregório Lopes, one of Portugal’s most important 16th‑century artists. During our visit, a tabuleiro was on display inside the church. This elaborate headpiece is carried by local girls during the Festa dos Tabuleiros, an ancient tradition and the most significant festival in Tomar. Each tabuleiro is made up of 30 stacked pieces of bread—arranged either in six rows of five or five rows of six—and decorated with colourful flowers. At the very top sits a crown, usually adorned with either a white dove or the esfera armilar, a symbol closely associated with Portugal’s era of maritime exploration. 
With the sun finally breaking through, a refreshing drink in the small square felt like the perfect pause. Afterwards, we stopped to admire the statue of Gualdim Pais, Tomar’s founding father and a key figure in Portugal’s Templar history, before continuing on to our next destination.
With rain forecasted along the Portuguese coast that July morning, we decided to venture inland toward Santarém. The outlook for the region was far more promising—and it turned out to be absolutely right. As we drove from Caldas da Rainha toward Santarém, the grey clouds gradually gave way to blue skies and glorious sunshine. Our destination for the day was Castelo de Almourol, a striking river castle near Vila Nova da Barquinha. This whole area is shaped by the Rio Tejo, which winds gracefully through the landscape. As the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, the Tejo eventually meets the Atlantic near Lisbon, but here it flows quietly past sandy banks and wooded shores. Before visiting the castle, we stopped in Vila Nova da Barquinha, a sleepy riverside town where we took a break in Barquinha Park. A refreshing drink in the shade of towering plane trees offered welcome relief from the midday heat while the kids enjoyed the playground. Afterwards, we continued the short drive to Almourol Castle. There’s plenty of parking close to the river, and from the banks you can really appreciate the beauty of the Tejo—its calm stretches dotted with sandy river beaches, some of them busy with kayakers gliding across the water.
Castello de Almourol is the kind of castle you would sketch when somebody asks you to draw a castle. The castle is located on a small island in the Rio Tejo and is reached with an inexpensive ride in a little colourful boat which ferries people between the carpark and the castle.
Castelo de Almourol formed part of the defensive line controlled by the Knights Templar and served as an important stronghold during the Portuguese Reconquest. Once the boat reaches the island, a short path leads you up the granite outcrop to the main entrance, where the date of the castle’s foundation—1171—is proudly carved above the doorway. Passing through the first gate, you step into the outer enclosure. From here, a second entrance leads into the inner ward, which also contains the impressive three‑storey keep rising above the rest of the structure. The combination of rugged stone, river views, and Templar history makes Almourol feel like a place suspended in time.
The views from the castle across the Rio Tejo are breathtaking, and it’s easy to imagine just how strategic this vantage point must have been during times of war. Naturally, the first thing we did was climb the outer walls, where we could admire the river below and watch the little ferry gliding back and forth. After exploring the defensive walls, we stepped inside the keep, which now houses a series of informative displays detailing the castle’s long history. Iron staircases connect the three floors, leading you gradually upward until you finally reach the rooftop. From here, the panorama over the Tejo is even more impressive—a sweeping, peaceful landscape that contrasts with the castle’s military past. It’s no surprise that Almourol is considered one of Portugal’s top‑rated castles. Its idyllic island setting, combined with its Templar heritage, makes it feel like something lifted straight from a storybook. Where do you even begin when describing Bacalhôa Buddha Eden? Spread across 35 hectares at Quinta dos Loridos—about 45 minutes north of Lisbon—these extraordinary gardens feel like stepping into another world. The project began in 2007, inspired by a moment of global heartbreak. After the Taliban destroyed the Bamiyan Buddha statues in Afghanistan, wealthy philanthropist and passionate art collector José Berardo was so deeply affected that he began acquiring giant Buddha sculptures. What started as an act of cultural preservation soon grew into the remarkable Buddha Eden we can visit today. We arrived at Quinta dos Loridos on a blisteringly hot day, grateful for the enormous car park that made finding a space effortless. After purchasing our tickets (garden entrance + train), we stepped into the imaginative, almost surreal landscape of the gardens. The first thing we did after arriving was hop onto the little train that loops around the gardens. Our plan was to ride it as far as the giant Buddha statues and then make our way back on foot through the vast grounds. The opening stretch of the route takes you past one of the estate’s many vineyards, where a series of colourful panels tells the story of wine. Each sign is crafted from specially commissioned tiles, creating a vibrant display that stands out beautifully against the rolling hills and neatly lined vines in the background. It’s a charming introduction to the gardens and sets the tone for the creativity that follows.
After a short ride along the pristine walkways and landscaped paths, we reached the area with the Buddha statues. One of the first things that caught our eye were the masses of Allium caesiums in full bloom, their vibrant blue flowers giving the gardens a distinctive splash of colour. And speaking of blue—we ended up seeing a lot more of it that day, but more on that later. This part of the garden is home to some of its most impressive sculptures, including a giant reclining Buddha and the towering 21‑metre‑high Buda Gigante. Standing among these monumental figures, surrounded by lush greenery and bursts of blue, feels both peaceful and surreal.
Over the years, the gardens have expanded to their current size—though judging by the ongoing work, it seems they’re still growing. With each phase of development came new additions, including an impressive collection of African and contemporary sculptures that add even more character to the landscape. Remember that mention of blue earlier? Not long after leaving the Buddha area, we stumbled upon an entire army of blue Xi’an‑style Terracotta Warriors. And no, it wasn’t the heat playing tricks on us. Rows upon rows of bright blue figures stood proudly on the hillside, creating one of the most surreal and memorable sights in the entire park. Thankfully, we snapped plenty of photos to prove we weren’t imagining it. As we continued wandering through the garden, we came across a mix of Japanese‑inspired statues and—yes—more blue figures, including a rather surreal giant chicken with a human head. Buddha Eden certainly doesn’t shy away from the unexpected. A little farther on, another army of Xi’an‑style warriors stood lined up along the hillside, gazing out over a vast lake shimmering with koi. The combination of sculptures, water, and lush greenery created one of the most peaceful and visually striking corners of the entire park. Next, we reached the African sculpture garden. Towering palm trees cast deep shade over the paths, their giant leaves partially hiding the artworks beneath. As we wandered through, we found sculptures of buffalos, lions, and elephants alongside striking pieces of contemporary African art. The combination of wildlife figures and modern creativity gives this corner of the park a completely different atmosphere—lush, dramatic, and full of character. Under a blistering sun, we made our way toward the giant bamboo garden, which doubles as an enormous maze dotted with sculptures. Wandering through the tall bamboo corridors feels both cooling and slightly mysterious, with artworks appearing unexpectedly around each bend. In this part of the park, you’ll also find a large collection of modern contemporary sculptures—many with wonderfully fitting names like Torso (you can probably guess which photo earned that title). The mix of natural shade, quirky art, and winding paths makes this area one of the most playful and surprising corners of Buddha Eden.
Close to the Quinta lies a beautiful lake, and from its edge you can easily reach the restaurant and the shop selling wines from the neighbouring estate—at surprisingly reasonable prices. Naturally, we couldn’t resist. After browsing the shelves for a moment, we left with a chilled bottle of Casa Mendes Blue tucked under our arm, the perfect souvenir from a sun‑soaked day in Buddha Eden.
And after a fabulous afternoon at Bacalhôa Buddha Eden, we simply couldn’t resist opening our bottle of Casa Mendes. After all, we’d seen so much blue throughout the day that it felt perfectly fitting to end it with a glass of blue wine. Yes, you read that right—the wine really was blue.
What can you expect when you board the ferry from Peniche to the Berlengas and the very first thing they hand you is a seasick bag? Confidence, clearly. We’d booked our Viamar ferry (viamar) the day before through their website, just to be sure we’d secure a spot. In reality, plenty of boats shuttle back and forth to the island, so getting a ticket usually isn’t too difficult. Still, better safe than sorry. So off we went—seasick bag tucked in the pocket, ready for whatever the Atlantic had planned. These waters are famously rough, thanks to the 4,000‑metre‑deep Nazaré underwater canyon that helps make this stretch of coastline one of Portugal’s top surf zones. Let’s just say the ocean doesn’t hold back.
When the ferry pulled away at 11:30, the sky was still a little overcast, but the farther we travelled from the coast, the brighter it became. The crossing takes around 45 minutes—longer if the sea gets rough, and it certainly did on our return—but on this particular morning the ocean behaved just enough to keep things manageable. Even so, a few passengers didn’t escape the seasickness. Despite that, the Berlengas are absolutely worth the journey. The main island sits about 10 km off the coast of Peniche and has been declared a natural reserve. At just 2.5 square kilometres, it’s a compact but extraordinary place, home to thousands of seabirds that use the cliffs and rocky outcrops as ideal breeding grounds. The waters surrounding the island are crystal clear and perfect for watersports, snorkelling, or simply watching the many fish—and occasionally dolphins—that glide through this protected marine paradise.
The ferry docks at the island’s only harbour, where a small fleet of fishing boats and glass‑bottom boats wait patiently for the steady stream of visitors. This is also where you’ll find a gorgeous little beach, perfectly sheltered from the ever‑present Atlantic winds by the towering cliffs that surround it. A word of warning: the breeze may feel refreshing, but it does a great job of hiding the strength of the sun. Sunburn is almost guaranteed if you’re not careful, so pack plenty of sunscreen. Don’t expect solitude around the harbour or the tiny beach—during the summer months, this area fills quickly with day‑trippers and sun‑seekers. Scattered around the harbour are a handful of small huts and concrete houses, a basic campsite, and a restaurant. But wander just a little farther along the narrow walking paths and the crowds disappear. Suddenly it’s just you, the rugged landscape, and what feels like a million birds and lizards keeping you company. It’s in these quieter corners that the true magic of the Berlengas really reveals itself.
We decided to hop onto one of the local glass‑bottom boats for a trip to the caves—a short but worthwhile adventure that gives you a completely different perspective on the Berlengas. From the boat, you can peer straight into the crystal‑clear water, spotting fish gliding between the rocks as the skipper navigates along the rugged coastline. The tour takes you right up to the caves, where the Atlantic has carved dramatic shapes into the cliffs. It’s a fun, breezy ride, made even better by the company: we shared the boat with a friendly couple from Belgium and their three daughters, all just as excited to explore the island as we were.
After the boat trip, we decided to treat ourselves to lunch—and a glass or two of wine—at Restaurante Mar&Sol. The name couldn’t be more fitting: the terrace sits right in the sun, overlooking the crystal‑clear waters below. Prices are a little higher than on the mainland, but it’s easy to understand why—everything has to be brought over by boat. Even so, the menu is still very reasonably priced. We started with bread and sardine pâté, followed by Bitoque (steak, eggs, fries, and a side salad), all paired with a medium carafe of white wine and another of red. The entire meal came to €33, which felt like a bargain considering the setting. And those views from the terrace? Absolutely unbeatable.
The island is perfect for walking, so that’s exactly what we set out to do after lunch. A concrete path winds its way up toward the lighthouse, perched on the highest point of the Berlengas and offering sweeping views over the Atlantic. From the lighthouse, a rocky trail leads down toward the 17th‑century Forte de São João Baptista. The fort sits dramatically on its own rocky outcrop, connected to the main island by a narrow stone bridge that looks like something straight out of a medieval adventure. Crossing it feels like stepping back in time, with the waves crashing below and the fortress rising ahead of you.
We were only on the island for the day, but if you decide to stay overnight, you have three options: a) Casa de Abrigo Located inside the Forte de São João Baptista, this is easily the most atmospheric place to stay—but also the least accessible. Reaching it requires a solid uphill and downhill walk, including crossing the narrow stone bridge to the fort. The accommodation itself is very simple, offering dorms (up to six beds) or basic private rooms priced between €20 and €22. It’s rustic, but the setting more than makes up for it.
b) Área de Campismo da Berlenga A small, simple campsite close to the harbour, set across rocky terraces. It’s basic but convenient, and at €10.30 it’s the most budget‑friendly option on the island. c) Residencial Mar e Sol This tiny guesthouse offers just six rooms and also happens to be the island’s only restaurant. At around €100 per night, it’s the most comfortable choice—and certainly the easiest if you want a bed, a shower, and a meal all in one place. But no matter where you stay, the real stars of the Berlengas are the birds. Thousands of them nest across the cliffs and rocky slopes, filling the island with constant chatter. They’re loud, fiercely protective of their chicks, and not shy about letting you know when you’re getting too close. And then there are the lizards—everywhere. They dart across the paths, sunbathe on warm rocks, and occasionally sprint right in front of your feet. Between the birds, the lizards, and the wild landscape, the island feels like a tiny, rugged world all of its own.
At the end of our fabulous day on the Berlengas, we made our way back to the harbour for one last drink. As we were on the final ferry of the day, departing around 6:30 pm, the handful of people staying overnight gathered to wave us off—a small but charming farewell. The return journey, however, was a very different story from the calm crossing that morning. The sea had picked up considerably, and there were moments when the boat tilted so sharply on the waves that you’d be forgiven for thinking it might roll straight into the Atlantic. But the captain handled it like a pro. Not only did he keep us safe and steady, he even managed to catch up with a smaller ferry that had left half an hour before us. By the time Peniche came back into view, we were windswept, slightly salty, and very grateful for solid ground—but absolutely convinced that the Berlengas are worth every bump along the way. Óbidos, a charming whitewashed town completely enclosed by medieval walls, is understandably one of Portugal’s most popular tourist destinations. I’d always wanted to visit, but preferably not at the same time as the thousands of visitors who descend on this little gem every day. So a plan was hatched: arrive early. Very early. On this particular morning, I pulled into the deserted car park outside the walls well before 7 a.m. Not a single car in sight—always a promising sign. The sun was slowly pushing its way through the morning clouds, hinting at another beautiful day in the Oeste subregion of Portugal. I entered the village through the main gate, the Porta da Vila, which features a beautifully tiled oratory tucked just inside. With the streets still empty and the town just waking up, it felt like stepping into a storybook before anyone else had opened the first page. From here, I wandered into the deserted main street, Rua Direita, normally buzzing with tourists but now completely silent. Gift shops and craft stalls lined both sides of the street, their doors still closed at this early hour. With no one around, the scent of flowers drifted freely through the air, filling the town as the morning sun slowly warmed the whitewashed walls. It felt like Óbidos was waking up just for me.
Walking along Rua Direita, I eventually reached the main square. A cluster of trees offers gentle shade here, giving the square a calm, almost sleepy feel in the early morning. The Igreja de Santa Maria sits quietly in the sunlight, its white façade waiting for the inevitable busloads of tourists that will soon fill the streets. Inside, the small church is decorated with beautiful blue 17th‑century tiles, giving the interior a cool, serene atmosphere that contrasts with the bright morning outside. At this hour, with no one else around, it felt like stepping into a private moment of Óbidos’ long history.
Walking further along the main street, it quickly becomes clear that ginja—the local cherry liqueur served in a tiny chocolate cup—is one of Óbidos’ signature treats. Stalls and shop windows proudly display it everywhere, tempting even the earliest of visitors. But at 7 a.m., with the town still waking up, I decided to stick to the bottle of water I’d brought along. There’s a time for cherry liqueur, and sunrise probably isn’t it.
Once upon a time, the coastline reached all the way to Óbidos. In those days, fishing boats would have waited below the city walls for their next catch, the sea lapping at the foot of the medieval town. Óbidos is also known as the “marriage town,” as it was traditionally given by the king to his new bride as a wedding gift—a romantic gesture that has become part of its enduring charm. Continuing along Rua Direita, I eventually reached the Pousada Castelo de Óbidos, one of the town’s most unique accommodation options, set within the ancient castle itself. From here, I climbed the stone steps leading up to the top of the medieval walls. The reward was immediate: sweeping views of the early morning sun rising over the vineyards and the distant Santuario do Senhor da Pedra. With the town still quiet below, it felt like Óbidos was revealing its secrets one sunrise at a time.
When I visited Óbidos, preparations were already underway for the town’s famous Medieval Festival—a huge celebration where knights, jesters, banquets, and reenacted battles take over the area around the castle. Even in its early stages, you could feel the excitement building, with stalls being set up and decorations slowly transforming the streets. After completing a full walk along the city walls, I was thrilled to find the local pastelaria just opening its doors. A fresh coffee and a warm croissant were the perfect reward for an early start. With the first rays of sunlight spilling into the quiet streets, it felt like I had experienced Óbidos at its very best. And with tourists beginning to trickle in, it was the perfect moment to slip away from this magical little town before the crowds claimed it for the day.
Walking along the town walls is great fun, but it definitely requires a bit of caution—there are plenty of uneven stones and trip hazards along the way. The walls completely encircle Óbidos, offering a continuous ribbon of viewpoints over the town. From up here, the terracotta rooftops, tiny gardens, and whitewashed houses create a picture‑perfect scene that feels almost timeless. It’s one of the best ways to appreciate just how beautiful this medieval town really is.
Alcobaça is best known for the Mosteiro de Alcobaça, an enormous Cistercian monastery that has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1989. And when we say enormous, we truly mean enormous—its scale becomes obvious long before you even step inside.After arriving in town, we parked close to the monastery and began walking along Rua Dom Pedro V. With every step, the sheer size of the complex became more and more apparent. Its long, imposing façade stretches across the square, dominating the entire area and hinting at the centuries of history held within its walls. At the end of Rua Dom Pedro V, we reached the main square, where the imposing entrance to the monastery dominates the entire scene. Just as we stepped into the open space, the heavens opened, transforming the narrow streets around the square into fast‑flowing streams. We took shelter for a few minutes, watching the rain cascade off the rooftops, and once the worst of the downpour had passed, we made a dash across the square toward the grand entrance of the monastery.
We arrived just after the monastery opened at 9 a.m., and it turned out to be the perfect decision—we practically had the entire place to ourselves. The Mosteiro de Alcobaça was founded in the 12th century by King Afonso I and is considered a masterpiece of Cistercian Gothic architecture, thanks in part to the exceptional materials and craftsmanship used in its construction. Inside the church, the ticket office sits to the left as you enter through the main doors. One family ticket (€9) later, we stepped into the Sala dos Reis—the Room of the Kings. This chamber is lined with 17th‑ and 18th‑century statues representing the kings of Portugal, each one watching silently over the space. With no one else around, the room felt almost like a private gallery of Portuguese history.
The walls of the room are lined with beautiful blue‑and‑white tiles depicting scenes from the monastery’s long history. From there, we made our way to what we both agreed was one of the most impressive spaces in the entire complex: the monastery kitchen. Completely clad in tiles from floor to ceiling, the kitchen feels almost cathedral‑like in scale. Its most striking feature is the enormous central chimney, so large that it dominates the entire room. Supported by eight iron columns, it was designed to handle the vast quantities of food once prepared here for the monks. At the back of the kitchen, a stone basin reveals one of the monastery’s most ingenious features. Through a specially built canal, water—and even live fish—from the River Alcoa could be diverted directly into the kitchen, making food preparation remarkably efficient for its time.
Many of the rooms are topped with elegant Gothic rib vaulting, supported by rows of sturdy pillars that give the monastery its characteristic sense of height and harmony. The cloister is especially impressive—one of the largest medieval Cistercian cloisters in all of Europe, its arches and columns forming a serene, almost contemplative space. While the exterior of the Alcobaça monastery is relatively plain, the interior is a completely different story. Around the inner courtyard, beautifully carved statues and decorative details reveal the true artistry of the monks and craftsmen who shaped this place. It’s a striking contrast that makes exploring the monastery feel like uncovering layer after layer of quiet grandeur.
After an amazing visit, during which we admired the intricate statues and decorative motifs throughout the monastery, we stepped back into the church. In the transept lie the tombs of King Pedro I and his beloved Inês de Castro—one of Portugal’s most tragic and enduring love stories. Both tombs are remarkably elaborate, carved with exquisite detail on every side. Scenes from their lives, religious symbolism, and finely sculpted figures wrap around the stone like a visual tapestry. These masterpieces are widely considered the finest examples of Gothic sculpture in Portugal, and standing before them feels like witnessing history, devotion, and artistry all intertwined.
While walking through the monastery earlier, we had heard some enchanting singing echoing through the halls. At first, we assumed it was a recording playing somewhere in the background. To our surprise, it turned out to be João Paulo Ferreira of En Canto Countertenors. He had been performing inside the monastery earlier that morning, but by the time we stepped back outside, he had moved to a quaint little street just off the main square. Hearing his voice drift through the narrow lanes added an unexpected touch of magic to our visit.  We had planned a visit to the Grutas de Mira de Aire, Portugal’s largest show caves, located within the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire. The surrounding landscape is a rugged mix of limestone hills and craggy outcrops. Farmland here is divided by thousands of stone walls, with most plots planted with olive trees. Water disappears quickly into the porous limestone, making it nearly impossible for many crops to survive in the region’s hot, dry climate. The area is home to several show caves, but the most impressive—and certainly the largest—are the Mira de Aire caves, found right in the town of Mira de Aire. On arrival, you’d never guess that around 11 km of underground passages lie beneath your feet. The caves sit discreetly between residential houses, and if it weren’t for the car park and the restaurant beside it, you might not even realise what’s hidden below. The ticket building doubles as a tourist shop and bar, and just outside there’s a small zoo with birds, rabbits, a donkey, and a few other animals—perfect for keeping children entertained while waiting for the next tour to begin.
After purchasing our entrance tickets (Adults: €6.60, under‑11s: €3.90, under‑5s: free), we waited about twenty minutes for our turn to begin the descent. It’s worth noting that tickets can also be combined with entry to the nearby aquatic park for a small additional fee—handy if you’re planning a full day in the area. The visit begins with a short film introducing the region and the cave system. The presentation is in Portuguese, but English subtitles make it easy to follow along. Once the introduction finished, it was time for the long descent into the underground world of the Grutas de Mira de Aire. The explored cave network currently stretches for around 11 km, although only 600 metres are open to the general public. Classified as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Portugal, the Grutas de Mira de Aire were discovered on 27 July 1947, when four locals decided to clear a blocked opening in search of water—unaware of the vast underground world beneath their feet. The caves officially opened to visitors in 1974. Today, a total of 683 steps lead you down to a depth of 110 metres, taking you through a remarkable subterranean landscape. The cave system is divided into three distinct levels, two of which are accessible on the guided tour. The first is the fossil cave on the upper level, characterised by impressive formations of stalagmites and stalactites. These ancient mineral structures create a dramatic introduction to the underground world that lies ahead.
The second section of the cave is the semi‑active area, which still has the potential to flood during periods of heavy rain. Below that lies the third level—the fully submerged part of the system—which is closed to the public and accessible only to specialised cave divers. Along the visitor route, there are plenty of fascinating rock formations, each with imaginative names inspired by their shapes. You’ll pass features known as “spaghetti,” “jellyfish,” and even the “octopus gallery,” all formed over thousands of years by dripping water and mineral deposits. These natural sculptures add a sense of wonder to the descent, making every turn in the path feel like a new discovery.
In the Octopus Gallery, you’ll find a small door leading to the cave’s wine cellar, where occasional wine‑tasting events are held. Thanks to the cave’s constant internal temperature of around 17°C throughout the year, the environment is perfect for storing and ageing wine. It’s a fascinating blend of natural geology and local tradition, hidden deep beneath the town of Mira de Aire. At the end of the tour, a series of illuminated fountains guides you toward the two lifts that carry visitors back up to the surface. From there, it’s only a short walk to the car park. Before heading back, though, it’s worth taking a moment to explore the small museum near the exit, where displays of stones, rocks, and fossils offer a final glimpse into the geological history of the region.  Peniche is a lively fishing town in Portugal’s Leiria district, known not only for its bustling harbour but also for being one of the country’s top surf destinations. With consistent year‑round waves and long stretches of golden sand, it attracts surfers from across the globe. Despite its growing popularity with visitors, Peniche remains very much a working town, holding on to the maritime character that has shaped it for centuries. The most captivating part of Peniche is its small walled historic centre. Wandering through its narrow streets, you’ll spot bacalhau—dried and salted cod—laid out in the sun, a traditional sight that speaks to the town’s deep fishing heritage.
At the harbour, you find Fortaleza de Peniche. This fortress, which was built in 1557 and was finished in 1645, has served many uses pending the needs . It has been used as a military stronghold, a shelter to the Boer refugees, a residence for German war prisoners during WWI, a political prison, ... and currently it serves as a museum.
After enjoying a pastelaria and a coffee near the church, we made our way toward Cabo Carvoeiro. West of Peniche lies a rugged peninsula that leads to this dramatic headland, where the coastline is shaped by striking weathered rock formations and steep cliffs. From above, you can often spot fishermen perched on the edges, casting their lines into the churning waters far below. Tucked beneath these cliffs are small, sheltered beaches—quiet pockets of sand where you can relax and soak up the sun, framed by the raw beauty of Peniche’s Atlantic coast.
Just before reaching the lighthouse at Cabo Carvoeiro, you’ll come across Varanda de Pilatos. This hidden spot sits inside a sea‑carved stone chamber, accessible by climbing down a ladder built into the cliffside. Once you descend into the chamber, you’re rewarded with dramatic views over the Atlantic and, on a clear day, all the way out to the Berlengas Islands.
Heading down the road again, we reached the lighthouse which stands 25m tall and was built to protect the ships trying to navigate the rough seas around Peniche. Cabo Carvoeiro, Europe's second most Westerly point, is rugged. A large car park is frequented by a lot of tourists, a modern restaurant on the cliff top also serves as a viewing platform.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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