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Ballintroy is a tiny village perched above one of the most dramatic stretches of coastline in Northern Ireland. Ballintroy Harbour, tucked between steep cliffs and black volcanic rock, feels like a place lifted straight from a storybook — or, as many visitors now know, straight from a film set. Ballintroy Harbour is instantly recognisable to anyone who watched Game of Thrones — this quiet, rugged inlet became the Iron Islands, home of the Greyjoys. Standing on the black rocks with the waves crashing in, it’s easy to see why the location scouts chose it.
The harbour is sheltered by jagged basalt rocks, their dark shapes breaking the waves before they reach the shore. Between the stones, pockets of colour appear — sea pinks, tiny coastal flowers, and patches of hardy vegetation clinging to the cracks. In the tidal pools, small crabs, darting fish, and bright seaweed create a miniature world that feels alive with movement.
Just beyond the harbour sits a small sea cave, carved out by years of Atlantic swell. It’s instantly recognisable to Game of Thrones fans — this is where Theon Greyjoy first came ashore in the Iron Islands. Just beyond the harbour, a small, rugged beach opens up — a mix of pale sand, dark basalt stones, and sea‑washed boulders scattered like they’ve been dropped there by the tide. Another Game of Thrones sign explains how this stretch of coastline was transformed into the Iron Islands, pointing out the exact spots where key scenes were filmed. It’s a fun reminder of just how much of Westeros was brought to life along these rugged shores, and it adds an extra layer of magic as you explore the harbour and its hidden corners.
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On an overcast dark summer's afternoon, we arrived at the National trust's Downhill Demesne and Mussenden temple. Located at the town of Downhill not to far from Coleraine in Northern Ireland, we parked nearby the entrance. Well wrapped in our wetgear, we entered the National trust estate. We walked along a grassy lane towards the ruins of Downhill house which once was an amazing 18th century mansion built by the eccentric Earl Bishop. And it is not hard to see why this location was choosen by the Earl to built this magnificent house. Located on the top of the seaside cliffs, the views from the estate towards Downhill beach are just breathtaking . The only things which remain of the house are the walls, but it is brilliant fun for the kids to discover the many roofless and windowless rooms of the house, a perfect location to play hide and seek. Having walked through the house, our attention was diverted to the beautiful Mussenden temple which stands literally on the cliffs edge. Back in the day when it was built, it was possible to drive a horse and carriage around the temple, nowadays it just balances on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Atlantic. But don't fear, cliff stabilization work was carried out to protect the temple from falling into the sea. And if you are looking for a special location to get married, the temple has a licence to hold wedding ceremonies. At the car park, we wanted to warm ourselves with a coffee, so we headed over to Al's coffee. We were greeted with a big smile by Al, and after a great chat and a nice cup of coffee and a quick pose for another picture, we headed through the apple tree garden to the dovecot and icehouse. The dovecot once housed many pigeons, pigeons which would have been kept for their feathers, their meat and ther dung which was a great fertilizer. We enjoyed the afternoon, even with the persistent rain. Derry city, Northern Ireland's second largest city, is located along the banks of the Foyle. We found ourselves in this cultural hub on a Sunday morning. Having parked the car along the banks of the Foyle, we were excited to discover this flourishing city which has received a major makeover since it's stent as UK city of culture in 2013. And for anybody who thinks about Derry's troubled past, it is nowadays a thriving artistic hub where tourism is booming. First exciting structure we noticed during our walk is the fabulous peace bridge, a cycle and foot bridge built across the Foyle which symbolizes a handshake of peace across the river Foyle. Next were the Derry walls, the intact 17th century enclosure around the city which makes Derry the only fully walled city in Ireland. Walking on top of the ramparts, you get to see the city from a birdseye perspective allowing you to absorb the cheer size Derry city has grown into over all those years. We entered the walls from Butchers gate, one of the 4 original gates in the city's walls. Informative signpost explain the history behind the historical buildings you pass along the walk, it explains in detail the area and the history. These informative signs are a great addition to an already fabulous walk. The walk is also great for kids, especially the canons will be of great interest to any kid. And at each Bastion, you can find these imposing canons. As it was Sunday, the streets were quiet, but the wall itself was busy with the many tourists around. Passing St Columb's cathedral, we made our way over towards the Guildhall. On the first floor, you will find the main hall where you will be mesmerized by the huge stained glass windows which are the main feature in the room together with a huge organ. Making our way back to the car after a bite to eat in one of the restaurants, we continued are trip towards the Causeway coast. One thing we can say is that we are eager to go back to Derry and explore it in more detail, see the museums, sample the food, discover some of the shops and just enjoy this artistic tourist hub along the Foyle. Derry has surprised us in many ways, but all of them being positive.
The Guildhall, which is located at the main city square in Derry, is an imposing building. Built in a neo-gothic style out of red sandstone, the end result is a striking building. Walking into the building, you find a tourist information desk where we were welcomed with open arms and received a lot of useful information about Northern Ireland and Derry. On the groundfloor of the Guildhall, you will find a great exhibition which explores how the plantation shaped Derry's history. This interactive exhibition is brilliant for kids and adults alike. You have many games/puzzles which teaches you in an interactive way about the plantation, but you also have the opportunity to dress up which Dolores couldn't resist.
On an overcast day in July, we found ourselves in Roe Valley Country Park. Leaving, the car park of Roe Park resort, we headed down a small lane into the Country Park. Located nearby the town of Limavady in County Derry, the park is located along the river Roe. A variety of paths exist through the forest and along the river, all of them well maintained. The area is rich in flora and fauna, and we watched playful squirrels jumping in and out of trees during our walk.
On this particular day, it was quiet in the park and allowed us to enjoy the beauty of the Roe valley. After having walked past a weir, along farmland and through forests, we reached Dogleap Countryside Centre where a cafe, public picnic areas and riverside walks attract a good few number of visitors. Here , you also find Green Lane Museum where you can step back in time and discover life during the linnen and agricultural industrial era's from a bygone age. The area around the visitor centre is wheelchair friendly, and there is even a wheelchair friendly jetty allowing wheelchair users to fish in the river Roe. The visitor centre is also an educational centre where you can learn about the local flora and fauna. And best of all, the park is free for you to enjoy .
Hezlett House is one of Northern Ireland oldest surviving buildings and is currently owned by the National Trust. The current structure hides the original timber frame of the house, but the beautiful white walls are in stark contrast with the tatched roof. We paid the entrance (£ 25.10) into the house which i thought was a bit on the steep side for a family of 5 and 2 pensioners (no discount for pensioners) , but luckily it also included entrance to the nearby Downhill Demesne. Where we had a brilliant time in Northern Ireland, I find the National trust charging prices which are too high. Their yearly membership seems to be good value, but for the tourist who is only in Northern Ireland for a couple of days and buys tickets at the entrance, they are steeply priced. A similar story goes for Giants Causeway, where if you are in the know you can enter for free if you avoid the visitor centre which is build in such a way as to capture tourists into paying an entrance fee, but later more on this. Back to beautiful Hezlett house, where we entered the house and found ourselves in the kitchen. The house is furnished with mid-Victorian furniture. Behind the kitchen was a small washroom which had a stair to the top floor. On the top floor is a bedroom under the roof. What we noticed is that all the beds are very small, and it was explained to us that in those early days, people used to sleep in an almost upright position. The next room was the room where the farmworkers used to sleep, some of them being as young as 14 years old. The room, which didn't have any windows, would have been very dark. Comfort was far to be sought, bags on the ground being the beds. The next room showed us a deeper insight into how the roof was built. The exposed cruck-truss roof construction is a piece of art in itself. Heading back downstairs, we found ourselves walking through the tiny rooms , one being a nice living room with the child's bedroom beside it. The old pictures in the room gave us a feel for what life must have been like back in those days. After the house, we wandered through the gardens and into the stable, one of them being converted into a children's playroom where you had pages to draw on, a play farm,... a perfect location to play with the kids when it rains. So, Hezlett house is worth a visit especially with the nearby Downhill Demesne included in the ticket price.
We decided to head for County Fermanagh, one of the six counties of Northern Ireland. Crossing the border at Blacklion, we followed the signposts toward the Marble Arch Caves. Having visited these spectacular caves before, we opted to skip them this time and continue on to Cuilcagh Mountain Park, located about 1 km beyond the Marble Arch Caves car park. There is plenty of parking available at the start of the trail, and even toilet facilities — always a welcome sight before a long walk. Cuilcagh Mountain Park, established in 1998, was created to restore damaged peatland, protect the blanket bog, and raise awareness of this unique habitat. More recently, the park unveiled its new boardwalk and stairway, a feature that has made the climb to the 665‑metre summit of Cuilcagh far more accessible for walkers. It’s an impressive addition and one that has transformed the experience of reaching the top.
Setting off on our walk, the first piece of advice is simple: be prepared. Reaching the summit of Cuilcagh Mountain requires walking roughly 12 km along a linear trail, so it’s wise to bring snacks, plenty of water, and wear sturdy shoes and a good jacket. The weather can change quickly — what begins as a sunny stroll can easily turn into a wet and windy climb. The first 3.75 km follow a wide bog road that gradually leads toward the mountain. Leaving the car park, the landscape shifts quickly from limestone and grassland to open bog. Along the way, small signs mark the remaining distance to the new boardwalk. About halfway, an educational boardwalk loops through a section of conserved bogland. Here, bog cotton sways in the breeze, birds hide among the vegetation, and streams weave their way through this ancient landscape. Beyond this point, the bog road begins to rise steadily, opening up expansive views stretching as far as County Leitrim and Enniskillen.
After roughly 3.75 km, we reached the new boardwalk. Where the old path once cut straight through the bog, you can now walk comfortably along the raised walkway. It was installed to protect the rare blanket bog from erosion, and it makes this section of the trail both easier and more enjoyable. Following the boardwalk, we soon arrived at the stairway. It’s an impressive sight — a long, steep staircase built directly up the mountainside. While it still requires a bit of effort, the steps make the climb to the summit far more accessible. After reaching the top, we chose to return the same way. However, if time isn’t an issue, you can continue along the Cuilcagh Hikers Trail all the way to Florence Court. Since the boardwalk was added, this has become an extremely popular walk, especially on weekends. Our advice is to tackle the Cuilcagh Legnabrocky Trail during the week for a quieter and more enjoyable experience.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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