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The rugged North Mayo coastline is just spectacular. With its cliffs and bogland, it can be wild even on a day in August. Within this barren landscape, a pyramid-like structure sits half buried in the landscape. But it's not the only thing buried underneath this bogland. Beneath the wild landscape lies a system of fields, dwelling areas and megalithic tombs which together make up the most extensive Stone Age monument in the world. The pyramid-like structure is the award-winning visitor centre which went through an extensive €2.6 million investment. The enhanced experience at this renewed visitor centre includes an improved interpretation that tells the archaeological story of the site, but also its discovery. ( https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/ceide-fields/ ). The stone-walled fields extend over hundreds of hectares and are the oldest known globally, dating back almost 6,000 years. They are covered by a natural blanket bog with its own unique vegetation and wildlife.
Entering the visitor centre, you are welcomed by a huge piece of bog oak. A new state-of-the-art audio-visual exhibition encourages you to learn more about the rich heritage of the region. The first thing we entered was an immersive 360-degree room where an animated movie is projected all around you on the walls. The movie transports you back in time allowing you to meet the Stone Age people who once created the fields and dwellings underneath the blanket bog.
.The first floor of the visitor centre explains how these settlers arrived in Ireland, the tools they used, the clothes they wore and much more interesting facts. A lot of interactive features keep old and young entertained throughout the visitor centre. The whole experience is just fabulous with every small detail linking the exhibition to the fields below. For example, the green carpets reminded us of the fields and stone walls,.... Interactive features like holograms, games and films educate you further on life during the stone age.
The second floor of the visitor centre explains in detail Archaeology and the work which was conducted in establishing and finding the fields and dwellings below the bogland. A very popular part of this exhibition is the microscope where you can play around with a microscope. The boys loved this part, especially when they decided to zoom in and have a look at their fingers. Another flight of stairs brings you to the viewing deck from where you can admire the scenery, but also fight against the strong Atlantic breeze.
After the exhibition, you can walk around the bog following a boardwalk which brings you along some excavated walls and dwellings. On the particular day we visited the Ceide Fields, we were greeted by a rainbow. Along the boardwalk, you can try the find some of these walls yourself by pushing a long metal rod into the bog , this in the hope of finding some of these ancient walls.
All displays and exhibitions are in Irish and English with written translations available in Dutch, French, German, Italian, Polish and Spanish. if your visit made you hungry, you can enter the cafe where you can try some food or head outwards to the picnic area where you can admire the stunning views. Across the road is also a viewing platform which allows you to stand on the edge of the high cliffs. The cliffs of North Mayo have featured on television during one of the Red Bull Cliff dives where world-renowned cliff divers jumped from these stunning cliffs into the cold Atlantic.
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Taking Road 54 from Stykkishólmur towards Búðardalur in April turned out to be a surprisingly pleasant experience. The unsurfaced track winds gently around the fjords, revealing new stretches of scenery at every bend — quiet inlets, distant mountains, and the first hints of colour returning to the landscape. There we were, seven of us packed into a jeep, heading for Eiríksstaðir on a bright April day. The last patches of snow were melting away, giving space to the first signs of an Icelandic spring. It felt like the whole countryside was waking up as we drove deeper into the valley.
We were on our way to Eiríksstaðir, a reconstructed Viking longhouse and the former homestead of Erik the Red, the first European known to have reached Greenland. This remote valley was also the birthplace of his son, Leif Eiriksson, the first known European to set foot in the Americas — a remarkable bit of history tucked into the Icelandic countryside. The unsurfaced Route 586 leading to the site is a scenic drive in itself, especially as it winds around Haukadalsvatn, a striking lake whose deep blue waters looked almost inviting in the crisp April light.
The open‑air museum was closed on this particular April day, but we still enjoyed wandering around the site and exploring the replica longhouse from the outside. Our next stop was the town of Búðardalur, where we went in search of a restaurant — unfortunately without success. Thankfully, many Icelandic petrol stations double as small diners, but with the weather on our side, we opted for an improvised picnic instead. Even so, jackets and hats were still very much needed. In the centre of town, a small pool home to two seals provided unexpected entertainment, much to the delight of the children who watched them play.
"Come quickly inside and get out of the cold" said the blonde haired lady in the tourist shop. It was late March, and we found ourselves in Thingvellir National Park (https://www.thingvellir.is/en/) in South Western Iceland. This trip was a true family affair. My parents were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary, and instead of hosting a big party in Ireland or Belgium, they chose something far more meaningful — a journey to Iceland with all of us. My adventurous side definitely comes from them; they’ve always preferred travelling to lesser‑known places, meeting locals, and experiencing authentic food and traditions. And so there we were, the whole gang together, standing in the heart of this breathtaking national park — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004 — ready to begin an unforgettable family adventure.
It looked as though Þingvellir was preparing to slip back under a fresh layer of snow, the dark, brooding sky standing in stark contrast to the already snow‑covered mountains. A spine‑chilling wind swept across the landscape, forcing us to wrap up even tighter as we prepared to walk between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This remarkable area is also home to Iceland’s largest natural lake, a place that draws adventurous divers from around the world who relish the rare opportunity to descend into the crystal‑clear waters between two continental plates.
Walking along the path, we stopped to admire the waterfalls, while the kids made the most of the patches of snow that still lingered in the sheltered areas. Þingvellir is closely linked to the Althing, the Icelandic parliament, which was founded here in 930 AD, making it one of the oldest parliamentary sites in the world. Þingvellir is also one of the three major attractions on the Golden Circle, and it’s well worth arriving early to avoid the many busloads of tourists that fill the park later in the day. During our visit, several paths were still closed due to heavy snow blocking the way. We’ve already made plans to return in summer, when the trails are fully open and we can explore this remarkable landscape in greater depth.
Snæfellsjökull National Park sits at the far western tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, a region shaped by high volcanic peaks, towering sea cliffs, sprawling lava fields, and golden sandy beaches. It’s a landscape so dramatic and otherworldly that Jules Verne chose it as the setting for Journey to the Centre of the Earth, forever immortalising its mystique. On this particular day in late April, we found ourselves following the southern stretch of the circular seaside route, driving toward the small coastal village of Arnarstapi. Where the weather had been promising when we left the beautiful town of Stykkisholmur earlier that morning, the weather deteriorated quickly the closer we got to the ice cap covered Snæfellsjökull. The small town of Arnarstapi is an ideal base for the 2.5‑kilometre coastal walk to Hellnar, a route that winds through ancient lava fields and past eroded sea caves. Starting at the harbour, you’re immediately greeted by dramatic cliffs, crashing waves, and even a few small waterfalls spilling over the rugged basalt formations — a perfect introduction to one of Iceland’s most scenic coastal paths.
We had planned to take a break in Hellnar at a small cafe / restaurant called Fjoruhusid which is located right on a black basalt beach. There’s a small terrace here where you can admire the dramatic coastline, though it happened to be closed during our visit. So we continued on to the incredible sea cliffs and the natural basalt towers of Lóndrangar. You could easily imagine yourself as an extra in The Lord of the Rings, approaching Barad‑dûr — the dark, jagged basalt columns rising defiantly from this unforgiving landscape. Looking down from any of the viewing platforms along the looped walking paths gives you a perfect vantage point to watch thousands of nesting seabirds clinging to the cliffs. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a seal below, weaving through the waves in search of its next meal.
Next on our route was Saxhóll crater, a modest‑sized volcano with a metal stairway leading all the way to the top. From the summit, we were treated to sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean and the vast, moss‑covered lava fields stretching out in every direction. Saxhóll erupted around 3,000 years ago, shaping much of the dramatic landscape we were admiring from above. Standing on the rim of this ancient crater on a bright April day felt almost surreal. And of course, Iceland’s weather kept us on our toes — sunshine one moment, then the threat of fog, showers, or even snow the next. It’s all part of the adventure.
Driving further through this vast, barren landscape, we arrived at a beautiful little cove called Skardsvík Beach. Unlike most beaches in Iceland, which are formed from dark volcanic sand, Skardsvík is a striking golden‑sand beach — a rare and unexpected sight on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. After parking in the small car park, we paused to admire the hardy wildflowers pushing up between the basalt rocks that frame this stunning shoreline. As we made our way toward the beach, we passed an ancient Viking grave, a quiet reminder of the island’s long and storied past. And while the golden sand and crystal‑clear water might look tempting, don’t be fooled — the sea here is bitterly cold and can turn rough without warning. It’s a place best enjoyed for its beauty rather than for swimming.
When we visited Snæfellsjökull National Park in April, it was wonderfully quiet. Being nearly five hours from Reykjavík, it’s not a typical day‑trip destination, but rather a place explored by travellers touring Iceland at a slower pace. The natural beauty of this region makes it an absolute must‑visit — a landscape shaped by fjords, lava fields, and snow‑covered volcanoes, each adding to its dramatic character. With such diversity and raw beauty, it’s easy to understand why Jules Verne chose this area as the gateway to the centre of the Earth, and why it features so prominently in many of the Icelandic sagas long before that. It’s a place where nature and storytelling intertwine. It is like time stood still on the remote island of Flatey , the largest island among a cluster of about forty other small islands located in Breidafjordur bay on the northwestern part of Iceland. On a sunny day in late April, we had embarked on an adventure to this remote island which is only accessible by boat from either Stykkishólmur or Brjánslækur during the summer. But during the Easter holidays, the odd ferry stops at the island to allow people access to their remote holiday homes during the school holidays. We had boarded the Baldur, a sizeable ferry operated by Seatours, and found ourselves sharing the journey with only two other passengers. The ferry leaves Stykkishólmur around 9 a.m., gliding through Breiðafjörður Bay and weaving between its many scattered islands — a perfect opportunity to admire the countless birds that dart between these remote outcrops. The Baldur makes only a brief stop at Flatey, pausing for just a couple of minutes before continuing on toward Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. On its return journey to Stykkishólmur, it stops again just long enough to pick you up. The island itself is completely traffic‑free, with no cars allowed, adding to its peaceful, timeless atmosphere. By the time we arrived on Flatey, the sun had finally broken through, offering the first real warmth after the long Icelandic winter. Flatey is a stunning little island, home to only two permanent families. Walking the short distance from the pier toward the village along the gravel road, we were greeted by sheep and chickens wandering freely — a charming welcome to island life. The colourful houses on Flatey, many of them more than a century old, are beautifully preserved and lovingly maintained by their current owners. Most now serve as holiday homes for Icelandic families whose parents or grandparents once lived on the island. Because it was the Easter holidays, many of these homes were occupied, giving the village a lively, lived‑in feel. If you decide to stay on the island and have luggage to carry, one of the local farmers will happily transport it for you on his tractor for a small fee — a wonderfully simple and authentic touch that fits perfectly with Flatey’s slow, timeless pace. The village has a small beach, and it’s here that you’ll also find Flatey Hotel, which only opens its doors during the summer months. When we visited over Easter, nothing was open, so bringing your own food and drinks is essential. As you wander through the village, it’s hard to imagine what life must be like here during the long winter months. With no streetlights, the island must be enveloped in complete darkness on those snowy winter nights. Yet in summer, the contrast is extraordinary — sitting outside on your patio, watching the midnight sun paint the sky, must be nothing short of magical. We love Iceland, but visiting Flatey was an experience all its own — quiet, timeless, and unforgettable. It’s a place we would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone exploring this part of the country. In the 2013 film The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, Stykkishólmur was one of the places Ben Stiller’s character was desperately trying to reach. On this late‑April afternoon, it happened to be our destination as well. After a 3.5‑hour drive from Keflavík Airport in relentless rain, we finally rolled into Stykkishólmur — just as the sun made a tentative appearance, as if welcoming us to this beautiful, remote Icelandic town on the northern edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. From the moment we drove into the town, we knew we were in for a wonderful time in this beautiful harbour community. The old wooden houses look much as they did a century ago, giving the town a timeless charm. Everything revolves around the harbour, sheltered by Sugandisey Island, which adds to the peaceful, postcard‑perfect setting. Stykkishólmur was also the first community in Europe to receive the EarthCheck Environmental Certification, and it shows — the town is impeccably clean and clearly proud of its commitment to sustainability. The village is a thriving community where you can watch the daily rhythm of life unfold — including the fishing boats returning each evening to unload their catch at the harbour. Stykkishólmur also offers plenty to explore, with three distinctive museums scattered around the town. One of them is the Volcano Museum, showcasing the private collection of Haraldur Sigurdsson, a world‑renowned volcanologist whose work has taken him across the globe. Then there’s the intriguing Library of Water, an art installation featuring 24 glass columns filled with melted ice collected from glaciers around Iceland — a quiet, contemplative space unlike anything else in the country. The third museum, the Norwegian House, was built in 1832 from imported Norwegian timber and has been beautifully restored. Today, it serves as the regional museum for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, offering a glimpse into the area’s cultural and architectural history. On our first evening, we set out for a walk around the town. The first thing you notice is just how spotless the streets are — everything feels cared for and quietly pristine. The houses surrounding the harbour are especially beautiful, each one proudly displaying the year it was built. Most of the dates we spotted went back to the early 1900s, giving the whole village a charming, time‑capsule feel. Stykkishólmur is a lively town, thanks in large part to its harbour, where the Ferry Baldur departs daily across Breiðafjörður Bay. The route connects Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with Brjánslækur in the Westfjords, making it an important link between the regions. During the holiday season, the ferry also stops at Flatey Island, a small, picturesque gem in the middle of the bay that’s known for its colourful houses, birdlife, and peaceful atmosphere. Stykkishólmur really feels like two towns in one: the “old part,” centred around the harbour, and the “new part,” which spreads out around the striking modern church and the open‑air swimming pool. The latter was a huge hit with the boys, who wanted to go swimming almost every day — thanks to the large outdoor pool and its slides. And don’t worry: even with snow still clinging to the mountains in April, the geothermal water keeps the pool wonderfully warm. After each swim, their favourite ritual was grabbing a hot dog from Meistarinn, a fantastic little stand on the edge of town. Stykkishólmur also offers a good range of accommodation and restaurants, so staying overnight is easy. What can be tricky, however, is getting a table. With only a handful of restaurants — and even April being surprisingly busy — booking ahead is definitely essential. We really enjoyed wandering around the town, especially watching the fishing boats return to the pier with their catch of the day. It was fascinating to see how quickly the fresh fish was unloaded and whisked away — a smooth, well‑rehearsed routine that’s clearly part of daily life in Stykkishólmur. Another favourite was the walk to the lighthouse on Sugandisey Island — once accessible only by boat, but now connected to the town by a short road. From the car park, a stairway leads you up onto the island, where you’re rewarded with sweeping views and some of the most beautiful sunsets you can imagine. It’s also a great spot for a bit of birdwatching, with many species nesting among the island’s rugged rock formations. Moments like these are why we’ll definitely return to Stykkishólmur, one of Iceland’s most charming and picturesque towns. So if you’re planning a trip to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, we can wholeheartedly recommend staying in Stykkishólmur — a perfect base for exploring this remarkable corner of Iceland. The fishing town of Akranes is a stones throw away from Iceland's capital Reykjavik, especially now that you can reach it through the Hvalfjordur tunnel rather than driving around Hvalfjordur (Although we recommend driving this fabulous route around the fjord). Driving into Akranes on a day in late March, it felt like spring was making an appearance early in the season. And as it was a public holiday, not to many businesses were open on this particular day. But we didn't mind as we wanted to enjoy the great outdoors and the warm spring air. Our first stop was Akranes lighthouse, a picturesque area around the harbour where 2 lighthouses give you plenty of photo opportunities. Thousands of birds floated around in the water enjoying the spring sunshine, the views were far and wide. The largest of the lighthouses is open to the public and is still in operation where the smaller one is currently not used anymore. Walking towards the lighthouses, photographs educate you on what life was like in Akranes back in the early 1900's After the lighthouses, we made our way over to Langisandur beach in Akranes, a long sandy beach with a promenade popular with walkers. It is also home to Íþróttabandalag Akraness. Yes, Akranes has a long history of soccer and has produced talented soccer players over the years. And on this glorious day where the sea was as calm as it can be, we spotted a whale in the distance breaching the water. unfortunately, it was to far away to get a real good look, but we were still happy to witness this spectacle from far. The area around Akranes is one of natural beauty. Driving around hvalfjordur ( https://www.outdoorfitnesssligo.com/destinations-further-afield-travel-blog/hvalfjordur ) is highly recommended.
We found ourselves in downtown Reykjavik with a few hours on our hands, so we decided to walk around the capital of Iceland and enjoy all what it has to offer. We started at the Harpa concert hall close to the marina, a distinctive glass building inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. The interior is just fabulous, from the black concrete to the yellow tones of the doors and feature walls, it is worthwhile walking to the top floor of this building and looking down towards the lobby. 
From here, we turned left towards the much photographed Hallgrimskirkja. At 74.5m height, it is one of Iceland's tallest structures. It took more than 40 years to finish the construction which started back in 1945. The church is also home to an observation deck within the tower which can be reached by lift. From the Harpa Concert hall, we turned into Laekjargata where we passed Stjornarrad (cabinet house) which once served as a prison, but is now the home to the prime minister offices. Walking back towards the town hall, we passed the colourful Drekkin convenience store which has been in business for 40 years. Drekkin is now also a fastfood joint where you can buy fastfood at a reasonable price. Walking back through the many back streets, we admired the many colourful facades of the houses, some of them bearing fabulous graffiti. The town hall is worth a visit. This modern building is located at the shore of lake Tjørnin. In the concrete building , you can find Reykjavik's official tourist office, but the building is also home to an impressive 3D relief map of Iceland. The building has an outside wall which is build from rock covered in moss, a nice feature within the centre of reykjavik. A short walk brought us to the settlement exhibition, home to the oldest relics of human habitation in Reykjavik. During the excavation, they also discovered a viking longhouse from the tenth century which now forms the focal point for the entire exhibition. The longhouse was left in it's original location, and the interactive displays let you discover what living in a longhouse would have been like. Many tools were also excavated and are now also on display showcasing axes, tools,.... At the entrance into the exhibition, there is also a great place where kids can dress up as vikings, play viking games or try out writing their name in Runes After an educational stop, we decided to get some retail therapy in as well as we ended up at Reykjavik's permanent Christmas shop (Jolahusid). Here you can find Christmas decorations and listen to Christmas songs year round. Next stop was Kolaportid flea market where different vendors sell new and used items, but this is also a location where you can buy traditional Icelandic food. After all that walking around, we were hungry. And being in Reykjavik, there is ample opportunity to find food. We decided to have lunch at Rustik (rustik.is/), a nice vibrant restaurant with a relaxing atmosphere where we enjoyed the fish of the day. So our few hours in Reykjavik were a great break from all the outdoor activities we had done during our visit to Iceland. Reykjavik is vibrant, it is colourful and is a must visit location, even if it is just for a couple of hours.
We followed Road 427 from Grindavík along the southern coast of Reykjanes, heading toward our destination for the day: the Krýsuvík Geothermal Area. The road was quiet, the skies a clear blue, and the landscape strikingly barren on this particular morning. After turning off Road 427 onto Road 42, we found ourselves gliding along beautifully smooth tarmac, driving straight toward the mountain range rising in the distance. The scenery grew more dramatic with every kilometre, setting the stage for the geothermal wonders ahead. After our visit and a few photos, we continued deeper into the barren landscape beneath a deep blue sky. The road carried us through wide, empty stretches of lava fields and rolling hills, and before long we reached the Krýsuvík geothermal area.
A busy enough car park welcomed us to this remarkable location. The area is right in the middle of the fissure of the mid-Atlantic ridge and is known as the Krysuvik geothermal area. The main geothermal area where we stopped is known as Seltun. From the carpark, a wooden boardwalk runs in between the hotsprings which are marked by green and yellow coloured banks. A slight sulphur smell lingers between the mountains within the valley.
Hot mud pools bubble away like a simmering stew—though this is one “stew” you definitely want to keep your distance from. The landscape is a striking mix of reds, browns, copper tones and sulphur‑stained yellows, creating an otherworldly palette that makes Krýsuvík a must‑visit location. Informative signs throughout the site explain the geology and geothermal activity, turning the area into an engaging and educational stop for both adults and children.
Krýsuvík is one of those places that makes you feel like you’ve stepped onto another planet. The combination of steaming vents, bubbling mud pools, and vividly coloured hillsides creates a landscape that’s both dramatic and unforgettable. It’s an easy stop along a scenic drive, yet it feels wonderfully remote, offering a raw and authentic glimpse into Iceland’s geothermal power. The area is also incredibly accessible, with well‑marked paths and informative signs that explain the geology behind the steam and colours. Whether you’re fascinated by natural science, love unusual landscapes, or simply want to experience something uniquely Icelandic, Krýsuvík is a destination that stays with you long after you’ve left. Driving along Route 35, we passed the Kerið crater lake, a striking volcanic caldera located in the Grímsnes area of South Iceland. After parking the car, we paid the 400 ISK entrance fee and began our walk along the rim of the caldera, taking in the vivid colours of the crater walls and the deep blue water below. The volcanic rock around Kerið glows in deep shades of red, almost surreal against the pale, frozen surface of the crater lake. Standing on the rim, you really feel the scale of it—the caldera drops about 55 metres, its steep walls curving dramatically down to the water below. From the car park, a narrow path winds its way toward the lake, following the only flank gentle enough to walk. It’s also the only side where a bit of hardy vegetation clings on, adding a touch of green to an otherwise raw and rugged landscape. The rest feels wild, exposed, and unmistakably Icelandic. Kerið isn’t just a geological wonder; it has a quirky cultural side too. Thanks to its incredible acoustics, the crater has hosted a handful of concerts over the years. The most famous moment came in 1987, when Björk performed from a floating platform right in the middle of the lake—an unforgettable setting for an unforgettable voice. Kerið is one of those places that surprises you with its simplicity and its beauty. The moment you step onto the rim, the contrast hits you—the deep red volcanic rock, the steep caldera walls, and the still, blue (or frozen white) lake resting quietly at the bottom. It’s dramatic without trying to be, and incredibly photogenic in any season.
Driving from Reykjavík along the South Coast toward Vík, it’s impossible not to notice the vast farms stretching across the landscape between Selfoss and Hvolsvöllur. These fertile lowlands, framed by the imposing presence of Mount Hekla, feel like the agricultural heart of Iceland—green, open, and quietly impressive. Far ahead, the South Icelandic Highlands slowly came into view, with the unmistakable silhouette of Eyjafjallajökull rising above the horizon. Spotting it in the distance made our destination feel suddenly real, and our excitement grew as we approached one of Iceland’s most iconic sights: Seljalandsfoss. By the time we reached the waterfall, the car park was already buzzing with visitors—a reminder that even in a country known for its wild, remote landscapes, some places draw crowds for a reason.
After paying the small car park fee, we followed the path toward the waterfall, its roar growing louder with every step. Seljalandsfoss plunges 40 metres from the cliffs above, a long white ribbon of water that feels almost delicate until you’re standing right beside it. What makes this waterfall truly special is the path that leads behind the cascade. The shape of the cliff and the hollowed‑out cavity allow you to walk a full circle around it, giving you that rare chance to see a waterfall from the inside looking out. On a sunny day, the view from behind is magical—sunlight catches the spray and creates vibrant rainbows that dance in the mist. Our visit, however, was anything but sunny. The sky was dull and overcast, and strong winds whipped the water straight into the back of the cave where the path runs. We were completely drenched within seconds, but honestly, it only added to the drama. Standing behind a thundering wall of water while the wind blasts spray in your face is an experience you don’t forget. As stunning as Seljalandsfoss is, it’s also incredibly popular. The car park fills quickly, and the path can get crowded. If you want a quieter moment with the waterfall—maybe even a chance to have it almost to yourself—arrive very early or very late in the day. It’s worth it.  Hvalfjörður—literally “Whale Fjord”—is only a 30‑minute drive from Reykjavík, yet it feels like a completely different world. With calm, glass‑like waters, snow‑capped mountains, and hidden waterfalls, it’s one of those places that quietly steals your heart. Ever since the tunnel beneath the fjord opened and eliminated the need to drive the long way around, Hvalfjörður has become wonderfully peaceful. The moment you turn onto Route 47, the traffic fades away and you suddenly find yourself almost alone on a beautifully maintained road that hugs the shoreline. On the day we visited, the fjord was a perfect mirror. The mountains, still dusted with March snow, shimmered in the sunlight and reflected flawlessly in the still water. It was one of those rare moments where Iceland feels untouched—just you, the landscape, and complete silence.
Despite its name, you won’t spot any whales in Hvalfjörður these days. What you will find, however, is Iceland’s last remaining whaling station—an unexpected reminder of the country’s whaling history tucked quietly along the shoreline. Hvalfjörður also carries echoes of a very different past. During World War II, the fjord served as a strategic naval base for both the British and American forces. Some of the old buildings and piers still stand, weathered by time but unmistakably tied to that chapter of history. At the far end of the fjord begins one of Iceland’s most rewarding hikes: the trail to Glymur, once the tallest waterfall in the country. The route winds along the edge of a dramatic river gorge, offering breathtaking views at every turn. It’s an adventurous path—at one point you duck through a short cave, and later you cross a narrow bridge suspended above the rushing water. The effort is absolutely worth it.
Driving around the fjord, you will notice the many summer houses against the flanks of the mountains. If you are interested in learning more about the WW2 occupation by British and American navy of Hvalfjordur, you should visit the War and peace museum (http://www2.warandpeace.is/). The small museum in the area offers an impressive collection of artifacts and historical information, giving real insight into the fjord’s past—from its whaling heritage to its role during World War II. It’s absolutely worth stopping in if you want to understand the deeper story of Hvalfjörður.
But honestly, the drive itself is the real highlight. Skipping the tunnel and taking the long route around the fjord is a detour we’d recommend every time. The road winds along calm waters, past mountains and waterfalls, and through some of the most peaceful scenery you’ll find near Reykjavík. If you’re craving tranquility and untouched Icelandic beauty, this drive delivers it in full. When you visit Iceland for the first time, the Golden Circle is almost a rite of passage. This 300‑kilometre loop is packed with some of the country’s most iconic sights, and one of the undeniable highlights is the mighty Gullfoss waterfall ( http://gullfoss.is/ ). As with most famous attractions in Iceland, it’s busy—very busy. The large car park was buzzing with buses, rental cars, and excited visitors spilling out toward the viewing paths. A big tourist shop and restaurant sit at the entrance, ready to welcome the crowds, but we didn’t linger. Instead, we made our way straight toward the waterfall. A well‑maintained path and stairway guide visitors down toward the viewing platforms, each step bringing the thunder of Gullfoss a little closer.
Ice and snow still clung to the rocks at the foot of Gullfoss, a massive waterfall fed by the glacial waters of the Hvítá river. Here, the river drops dramatically in two stages, plunging a total of 32 metres into a rugged canyon. Even from a distance, you can feel the power of the falls—its roar echoing through the cold air. The day was bitterly cold, and the wind had strengthened since early morning, cutting straight through our layers. We didn’t linger long at the upper viewpoint. Instead, we followed the path that begins at the lower platform, the one that brings you as close to the waterfall as safely possible. In icy conditions this trail is closed, and looking at the slick patches along the way, it was easy to understand why. After soaking in the views—and the icy spray—we made our way back toward the visitor centre. Before heading off again, we ducked into the tourist shop for a quick browse and a moment of warmth.
In the shop, there was a large selection of Icelandic products ranging from food to clothes. We liked the colourful wellies from designer Ilse Jacobsen, the Urta Icelandica black lavasalt ( https://www.urta.is/) had us intrigued.
Mount Esja dominates the skyline from Reykjavík, its broad slopes forming a dramatic backdrop to the city. It’s no surprise that this mountain range is one of the most popular outdoor recreation areas for locals and visitors alike. Day‑trippers flock here for fresh air, sweeping views, and a network of hiking trails that cater to every level of fitness.Rising to 914 metres, Mount Esja is part of a volcanic mountain range shaped by ancient eruptions and shifting geology. The trails are clearly marked with difficulty ratings, making it easy to choose a route that suits your ability—whether you’re after a gentle walk or a more challenging climb toward the summit.
The most popular trail in the area leads up to Dverfellshorn, a peak rising 770 metres above sea level. It’s a favourite among locals and visitors, offering a steady climb and rewarding views over Reykjavík and the surrounding coastline. On a clear day, the panorama from the top is nothing short of spectacular. Mount Esja is also home to the annual Mount Esja Ultra, an endurance race that pushes even seasoned runners to their limits. Participants tackle a demanding 7‑kilometre loop--eleven times—testing both strength and mental grit against the rugged volcanic terrain. Whether you’re hiking for the views or simply enjoying the fresh mountain air, Esja delivers an unforgettable outdoor experience just minutes from the city.
Iceland is no stranger to strong winds, but on this particular March day the gusts were on a whole different level. Winds of 140 km/hr came roaring down the mountain flanks and funnelled into the valleys below the infamous Eyjafjallajökull glacier. And naturally, this was the moment we decided it would be a great idea to go for a swim in Iceland’s oldest pool, Seljavallalaug. When we pulled into the rough, unsurfaced car park, the car doors were almost impossible to open—the wind yanked at them with such force that we had to brace ourselves just to step outside. Still determined, we headed deeper into the valley, following the riverbed toward the pool. With every step, the wind pushed harder, making walking barely possible. At one point we looked at each other and wondered if turning back might actually be the smarter choice. But the idea of swimming in a geothermal pool tucked deep in the mountains had been on my bucket list for years, so we pushed on—though “walk” might be too generous a word. It was more of a slow, determined, snail‑paced battle against the relentless headwind. Every step felt like a small victory. As we followed the riverbed deeper into the valley, the landscape around us became even more dramatic. To our left, towering basalt formations rose from the ground, their geometric shapes softened by thick layers of moss. The contrast between the rugged volcanic rock and the lush green drapery was incredible, a reminder of how Iceland blends raw power with delicate beauty.
As we rounded a bend deeper into the valley, the wind somehow found even more strength. At times it hit us with such force that we had to crouch down into tight little balls just to avoid being knocked over. Between the gusts, we pushed forward—slowly, stubbornly—until finally, after about thirty minutes of battling the elements, the pool came into view. Seljavallalaug is a simple 25‑metre pool, warmed naturally by geothermal water. After the chaos of the wind, the sight of steam rising gently from the surface felt almost surreal. The small dressing rooms beside the pool are basic but perfectly functional, offering just enough shelter to change out of your wind‑whipped layers. One side of the pool is formed by the natural rock of the mountainside, while the other three sides are built from concrete. It’s a beautiful blend of human effort and raw Icelandic nature. The pool is free to use, though a donation box sits nearby to support the volunteers who maintain this historic spot. The warm water flows directly from a nearby hot spring, feeding the pool with a steady, soothing heat,
After a quick change, I finally managed to tick another item off my bucket list. Slipping into the warm, geothermal water in the middle of this wild mountain valley felt incredible—refreshing, surreal, and brilliant fun despite the chaos raging around us. But safety comes first, and the wind was only getting stronger. After a short soak, we made the call to head back. By the time we started retracing our steps, the gusts had become so fierce that they practically pushed us down the valley. What had been a slow, exhausting battle on the way in turned into a record‑speed return to the car, carried by the full force of Iceland’s notorious March winds.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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