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Every young school kid in Belgium visits Bokrijk at some point, and I was one of those children about 40 years ago. It was one of those classic school trips — wandering past old farmhouses, watching traditional crafts, and feeling like you’d stepped straight into another century. Returning now, decades later, brings a mix of nostalgia and discovery: the familiar charm is still there, but the park has grown into something even more impressive, blending history, nature, and modern experiences in a way that feels both timeless and fresh. The Open‑Air Museum is located in the province of Limburg, and it remains the heart of Bokrijk — a place where history, craftsmanship, and nature come together in a way that feels both authentic and wonderfully immersive. Within the park are three distinctive regions: Haspengouw, Oost and West Vlaanderen and de Kempen. Then there is also the 60s area, but more about each of these in a bit.
Bokrijk is big, so make sure you bring a comfortable pair of shoes — you’ll be doing plenty of wandering through forests, historic villages, and open fields as you explore everything the park has to offer. The park is wonderfully interactive, with actors bringing the past to life in the most charming (and sometimes surprising) ways. Don’t be startled if you bump into the village priest scolding a mischievous local, or spot a group of women bleaching their laundry in the sun as if it were the most ordinary thing in the world. These little encounters make the whole experience feel authentic, almost like you’ve slipped through time.
Let's have a look at the three areas now: Kempen: The Kempen is the first area you enter when visiting Bokrijk, and it immediately sets the tone for the whole experience. With its sandy paths, rustic farmhouses, and traditional long‑gabled buildings, this region captures the simple, rural life of the Kempen countryside. It feels warm and welcoming — a gentle introduction to the slower pace and old‑world charm that defines the Open‑Air Museum. As you wander through the courtyards and workshops, you get a real sense of how everyday life once unfolded here, from farming routines to local crafts that shaped the region’s identity. The schuur Mol-Sluis (shed Mol-Sluis) is a play shed where you can find loads of games to keep the kids and young at heart entertained. In the village square, you find further fun activities. One of these is the stilt walking, a simple but surprisingly entertaining challenge that kids (and plenty of adults) can’t resist trying.
Oost en West Vlaanderen: The East and West Flanders sections of Bokrijk each bring their own flavour to the Open‑Air Museum, showcasing the rich agricultural traditions and distinctive architecture of these regions. As you wander through the farmsteads, barns, and village squares, you get a sense of how life once revolved around craftsmanship, trade, and the fertile fields that shaped daily routines. These areas feel a little more open and spacious, with wide courtyards and sturdy brick buildings that reflect the character of Flanders. In each building, you stumble upon little surprises. Some houses feel alive with activity — someone baking bread, another person doing the wash, or a craftsman demonstrating a skill that’s almost vanished from modern life. Other buildings are quieter, offering carefully curated educational displays that reveal more about the region’s history and culture. In the Schuur Zuienkerke, for example, we learned about the famous Belgian painter Brueghel, with exhibits that connect his work to everyday rural life. It’s these unexpected moments that make wandering through Bokrijk so rewarding, because you never quite know what story the next doorway will tell.
Haspengouw: The Haspengouw area is one of the most charming corners of Bokrijk, capturing the gentle, rural character of the Haspengouw region in eastern Belgium. This part of the Open‑Air Museum is dotted with whitewashed farmhouses, orchards, and traditional half‑timbered buildings that feel wonderfully peaceful and authentic. As you wander through the courtyards and gardens, you get a real sense of how people lived and worked in this fertile agricultural region.
One of the most unique parts of Bokrijk is the Sixties district, a colourful, retro neighbourhood that transports you straight back to Belgium in the 1960s. It feels like stepping onto the set of an old film: vintage shopfronts, classic advertising signs, old cars, and interiors that look exactly like the homes our parents or grandparents grew up in. You can wander through a recreated supermarket, peek inside a typical living room from the era, or explore the old school building that brings back memories for anyone who’s ever heard stories about chalkboards and wooden desks. It’s playful, nostalgic, and surprisingly immersive — a perfect contrast to the centuries‑old villages in the Open‑Air Museum. And although I’m a 70s child, it’s fun to spot so many items we had in our house when I was growing up.
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Walking from the Oude Koornmarkt through the small gate into the picturesque Vlaeykensgang (Vlaaikensgang) feels like stepping back in time. This medieval alley is one of Antwerp’s most charming hidden gems—an oasis of quiet tucked away from the busy city centre. Dating back to 1591, it was once home to some of the city’s poorest residents, as well as the cobblers responsible for ringing the cathedral’s emergency bell. Like many historic streets in modern cities, the Vlaeykensgang narrowly escaped demolition in the 1960s, when plans were drawn up to replace it with new buildings. Thankfully, the alley was saved and restored, preserving one of Antwerp’s most atmospheric corners.
Luckily, there was Axel Vervoordt. At the youthful age of 21, the famed Belgian antiques and art dealer stumbled upon the shrouded medieval Vlaeykensgang and decided to buy it saving it from imminent demolition. Together with his wife, he took on the mammoth task of buying and restoring the 11 historic houses saving the medieval alleyway. Nowadays, you find antiques dealers and restaurants in the alley making it the perfect getaway from todays busy life. During the summer months on a Monday evening (8pm to 9pm), it is the perfect location to listen to the Cathedral's carillon concert (beiaardconcert). During those evenings, the city carillonneurs and guest players play the most diverse songs which resound from the Cathedral's tower across the city. Accessible through a small doorway at number 16 in the Oude koornmarkt, make sure that you don't miss the entrance.
Located in the Leopoldstraat in Antwerp, there is a unique piece of greenery between Antwerp's buildings. Den Botaniek or Den Botanieken Hof is a unique herbal garden that came into existence when Pharmacist and plant collector Peter van Coudenberghe started it in 1794 to support the nearby St.Elisabeth Hospital. The plant collection grew rapidly and the more than 600 herbal plants were used during the preparation of medication.
The garden was then transformed into its current state by doctor Claude-Louis Somme. Claude-Louis Somme embraced a military career in the armies of Napoleon after his surgical studies between 1790 and 1792. He presented his dismissal from the imperial armies in 1806 and became the chief surgeon at the St Elisabeth hospital in Antwerp. The garden became in important source for education, especially for medicine education and the study of herbal plants. Over the years, the selection of plants kept growing to its current 2000 types.
The gardener's cottage dates back to 1870 where the large entrance gate was designed in 1826 by the famous architect Pierre Bruno Bourla. As the city architect between 1819 and 1861, he is responsible for many stunning buildings in Antwerp. His most famous work is the Royal theatre , known in Antwerp as "de Bourla", but he also put his stamp on the Antwerp Academy. He also designed the Orangery for Den Botaniek which houses many tropical plants.
Within the garden are plenty of statues, one being that of Peter van Coudenberghe. The garden is a cultural-historical protected landscape owned by the City of Antwerp. The garden is open between 8am to 8pm during the summer and 8am to 5.30pm during the winter with free entrance The Plantin Moretus Museum (www.museumplantinmoretus.be) is located at the Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market) in Antwerp. The museum is the original residence and workshop of the Plantin and Moretus publishing dynasty who were world renowned for their entrepreneurial skills. Plantin moved his family to the residence in 1576 and his family lived and worked there for the next 300 years. Throughout those years, the "Gulden Compass" as the house was named changed and expanded in size to fit the ever growing business. Walking through the museum which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, you are transported back in time by about about 400 years. It is the only museum on the prestigious UNESCO world heritage list mainly because of the uniqueness of the museum. It includes a prestigious mansion, the only fully equipped printing workshop from the 16th century, the world's largest selection of Plantin and Moretus editions,... Walking through the house, you can admire the original 16th‑century wall coverings and the creaking oak floors, as well as some of the oldest printing presses in the world. Hidden within the walls of this patrician residence is a peaceful garden, where the sounds of the city fade away behind the surrounding historic buildings.
Where the bottom floor is accessible for everybody, wheelchairs won't be able to access the first floor. This floor has many floor level changes. Starting with the ground floor, it is here that you find the impressive workshop that once was the beating heart of the business. With a 56 strong workforce, it was the largest business of its kind in the world at this time. First used in 1580, it contained 16 presses. Two of the presses date back to the 16th century where the others are from the 17th and 18th century. Where the compositors would set the lead type in a composing stick to form a line, these lines would then be assembled on a sturdy board to form the page.
The great library is still organised today like a private humanistic library of the 17th century, with high shelves filled with books arranged according to size, lecterns, globes and busts. The museum now contains the largest selection of Plantin and Moretus editions, many of which are on display. The old shop is another interesting part of the house. With its counter and cabinets still intact, the shop used to sell the books as loose sheets. If a customer wanted a book, then they had to bring the loose sheets to a bookbinder. Inside the shop, you can still see the money scale once used to verify the weight of silver and gold coins. Another fascinating space is the workshop where lead type, copper plates, and wooden blocks were crafted for the printing process. In those days, nearly everything was produced in‑house, although Plantin had already established an impressive international network of booksellers who helped distribute his works across Europe.
But the museum offers so much more, you can admire a rich art collection that include portraits by Rubens. the museum's collection of paintings includes 71 portraits. it was Balthasar Moretus who asked his good friend Peter Paul Rubens to make portraits of his grandparents.
In the upstairs rooms, you find room upon room with original books, manuscripts and original prints. Within the extensive collection are atlases, science books, almanac's and many more publications. And this extensive collection is available online.
And last but not least, there is the magnificent courtyard garden. Already celebrated in Plantin’s own time, it was a favourite retreat for kings, princes, and other distinguished visitors. The garden you see today was recreated in 1992, using plants that were popular in the 16th and 17th centuries to reflect its original character. Plantin’s close friendships with some of the era’s leading botanists undoubtedly influenced its design. Figures such as Rembert Dodoens had their botanical works published by Plantin—many of which are still preserved and displayed in the museum.
For me, the Plantin‑Moretus Museum is one of those places that quietly steals your heart. You don’t just walk through history—you feel it. The creak of the old floors, the smell of ink lingering in the workshops, the weight of the printing presses that once shaped the spread of knowledge… it all feels incredibly intimate. And then you step into the courtyard garden, and suddenly the city disappears.
KMSKA, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp, reopened its doors on 24 September 2022 after a decade of extensive renovation. The transformation added 40% more exhibition space without altering the historic structure of the building. Today, the museum blends old and new design seamlessly, creating an inspiring environment where visitors can enjoy, discover, experience, and participate without barriers. Tickets for the museum can be purchased in advance or can be bought from one of the ticket terminals at the entrance. The new entrance is modern and stands in stark contrast with the outside of the museum.
The Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (KMSKA) is the biggest art museum in Flanders. With masterpieces from the Flemish primitives and Antwerp Baroque to the extensive collection of modern art by, for example, Rik Wouters, Henri De Braekeleer and René Magritte. Level 1 - Modern Masters On level one, you find the modern masters with the crown jewel, the biggest collection of James Ensor in the world.
In the this part of the museum will also find the expo halls where you find temporary exhibitions. Current exhibitions are " the making of "which explains the renovation of the museum through pictures. The second exhibition is cosmorama, an exhibition where Ives Maes photographs the heritage of the world exhibitions. One of the halls is called the Light Hall, a pure white gallery where the painting are bathing in a stream of soft daylight. From this room, you can take a crisp white stairwell to level 3 where further modern masters are on display.
Level 2 - Old Masters On level 2, you’ll find the old masters. From Rubens to Van Eyck, this entire floor is a feast for the eyes. The museum subtly blends contemporary elements with its historic setting—like the enormous rotating purple hand that adds a playful, modern twist to the classical surroundings. One of the most memorable spaces is the VR room. Slip on the virtual‑reality glasses and you’re instantly transported into Rubens’ bustling workshop. You can watch the masters at work, observe the creative chaos of the studio, and even follow the mischievous adventures of the workshop cat. It’s an experience that brings art history to life in the most unexpected way.
The projection room is another impressive room where details from some of the paintings are projected on the room walls. Each new detail rolls around the room like a curtain, each time zooming in on some aspects of the paintings. The old masters on display range from Pieter Brueghel to Jacob Jordaens to Peter Paul Rubens, with some of their most impressive large‑scale masterpieces showcased on this floor.
Level# 3 - Drawings and sculptures On this floor, you find many drawings and sculptures Level# 4 - Modern Masters The top floor showcases even more modern masters. From Henri Van de Velde’s Woman by the Window—a stunning work created using the pointillism technique—to many other remarkable pieces, this level alone makes KMSKA worth a visit. When the museum reopened, it faced its share of criticism, but I honestly can’t agree. KMSKA is simply fabulous.
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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