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Doe Castle in County Donegal is set in a stunning scenic location, standing on a small peninsula that juts into the calm waters of Sheephaven Bay. Surrounded by mountains and mirrored in the tidal inlet below, the castle’s dramatic setting makes it one of the most picturesque fortified homes in Ireland. On this particular day, we had been driving all along Donegal’s coastline, following winding roads that dipped and rose between sea cliffs, quiet beaches, and wide Atlantic views. Being greeted by the imposing Doe Castle, we decided to pay it a visit. Rising above the water on its rocky peninsula, the fortress looked both dramatic and inviting — a place that demanded a closer look.
The fortress was built in the 1420s, and for almost 200 years it served as home, refuge, and bastion for at least thirteen MacSweeney chiefs. From its tower house to its great hall and sally port, Doe Castle stood at the centre of their power, guarding the waters of Sheephaven Bay and anchoring the clan’s presence in north Donegal. Entrance to Doe Castle is free, so after parking the car we wandered through the gate and into the quiet grounds. The tower house of Doe Castle rises above Sheephaven Bay as the fortress’s most commanding feature. Built for defence and status, its thick stone walls, narrow stairways, and elevated chambers once served the powerful MacSweeney chiefs who ruled this part of Donegal. Climbing higher and higher, the views across the bay were stunning from the upper floors — a sweeping panorama of calm water, rugged coastline, and distant mountains that made the climb feel entirely worth it.
The sally port of Doe Castle is one of its most striking defensive features — a narrow, fortified doorway that once allowed defenders to slip out unseen during times of siege. The Great Hall of Doe Castle was once the heart of the fortress — a space where the MacSweeney chiefs gathered, feasted, and conducted the business of their lordship. Though only its walls remain today, you can still sense the scale and importance it once held.
Doe Castle is worth the stop, and walking through the tower house and the grounds gives a real sense of the fortress’s long history.
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There’s a moment, just after you park the car at Aughris Head, where you have to stop and simply take it all in. From the headland, the pier sits just below you, marking the start of a stunning coastal walk that unfolds like a postcard with every step. The path is easy underfoot, winding along low cliffs and grassy edges, giving you views both near and far. Across Sligo Bay, Knocknarea rises with its unmistakable silhouette, while the Dartry Mountains stretch out behind it in layered shades of blue and grey. On a clear day, the horizon reaches even further. Look north across Donegal Bay and you’ll spot the distant outline of Slieve League, one of Europe’s highest sea cliffs, standing proud against the sky. It’s a reminder of just how much wild beauty surrounds this quiet corner of Sligo. The walk itself is peaceful — waves rolling in below while seagills zoom above your head, sometimes a curious seal making an appearance watching you walk along the rugged coastline. First stop is a small pebble beach where on either site are some caves. Also here, you find a promontory fort balancing above the beach on a rocky outcrop.
The walk itself is peaceful — waves rolling in below while seagulls zoom overhead, and every so often a curious seal lifts its head above the water, watching you as if you’re the entertainment for the day. Aughris has that mix of wildness and calm that makes you slow down without even trying. A little further along, the first stop is a small pebble beach, tucked neatly between rocky shoulders of coastline. It’s the kind of place you hear before you reach — the soft clatter of stones shifting under the tide. Above the beach, perched on a rocky outcrop, sits a promontory fort — a reminder that people have been drawn to this headland long before us. It balances dramatically over the shoreline, its position chosen for views, defence, and perhaps simply because it commands the landscape so completely.
From here, the coastline continues to unfold in front of you, each bend offering another glimpse of Sligo’s rugged beauty. It’s the kind of walk where you don’t rush, because every few steps there’s something worth pausing for. Some of Sligo’s highest cliffs come next, rising suddenly and dramatically as the path curves toward the open Atlantic. Many birds use the cliffs as a breeding ground, the parents flying off every few minutes in search of more food.
Leaving the coast behind, the path leads you to one of Aughris Head’s most intriguing features: an old WW2 lookout, perched above the cliffs and facing straight into the vast Atlantic. It’s a small, weather‑beaten structure, easy to miss if you’re not looking for it, yet once you notice it, you can’t help but imagine the stories it holds.
During the Second World War, Ireland maintained a network of coastal watch posts, each manned around the clock to record aircraft and ships passing offshore. Aughris Head was one of these strategic points. No walk around Aughris Head feels complete without finishing at The Beach Bar, one of Ireland’s most charming seaside pubs. Sitting right at the water’s edge, it’s the kind of place that seems to belong to the landscape — whitewashed walls, a thatched roof, and the Atlantic practically knocking on the door. The Philips Museum in Eindhoven offers a fascinating journey through the story of one of the Netherlands’ most influential companies. Located in the very building where Gerard Philips produced his first light bulbs in 1891, the museum blends history, innovation, and interactive exhibits in a way that appeals to all ages. Philips website: https://www.philips.nl/en/a-w/philips-museum
Throughout this interactive museum, you follow Philips’ evolution from a small family business to a global leader in technology, healthcare, and design — discovering iconic inventions, clever advertising, and the company’s impact on everyday life. Whether you’re interested in industrial heritage, modern tech, or simply curious about Eindhoven’s identity as the “City of Light,” the Philips Museum is a must‑visit. Exhibitions: a) Impact through design: The exhibition begins in the Gallery of Needs, where you embark on an impressive journey through five human needs and the clever, sometimes surprising Philips designs created to meet them. You move through time, stepping into the shoes of different users and seeing how design evolves as our needs change. b) brAInpower The Philips Museum presents brAInpower, a fascinating exhibition that dives into the world of artificial intelligence and its impact on our daily lives. It explores what AI really is, how it works, and how Philips helped shape its development — from early electron tubes to the microchips that power today’s technology. What makes the exhibition stand out is its hands‑on approach: visitors can create personal artwork based on their emotions using AI, generate ideas through image‑based tools, and even compare MRI scans with and without artificial intelligence. c) Gerard Philips The temporary exhibition Gerard offers a rare glimpse into the thoughts and actions of Philips’ founder. With his sharp eye for technology, entrepreneurship and social responsibility, Gerard Philips was an extraordinary man who, more than 130 years ago, laid the foundation for the global company Philips would become. d) Permanent exhibition: The permanent exhibition offers a fascinating journey through Philips’ evolution — from a small incandescent‑lamp manufacturer in 1891 to the major global innovator it is today. Through surprising stories and historic products, you see how Philips shaped everyday life, decade after decade.
After the exhibitions, you can visit the cozy museum cafe where you can unwind with a cup of coffee, tea, soft drinks, or fruit juice. It’s a warm, inviting spot where you can also enjoy a bite to eat. The menu offers a mix of sweet and savoury treats.
The Philips Museum Shop offers a fun mix of books, gifts and Philips memorabilia. In the shop you’ll find a wide range of items — from background books about Philips and Eindhoven to quirky souvenirs like board games, fridge magnets, mugs, posters, T‑shirts and unique Philips collectibles. In Overloon, you’ll find the largest war museum in Europe , a place where history feels close enough to touch. The quiet forest that surrounds it was once the scene of the Battle of Overloon, one of the fiercest tank battles fought on Dutch soil during World War II. On May 25, 1946, it became the first war museum in Western Europe to open its doors — a tribute to those who fought here and a reminder of the price paid for freedom. Walking through the museum grounds today, it’s hard to imagine the chaos that once unfolded here — yet the exhibits, vehicles and open‑air displays bring the story vividly to life. The museum sits in a quiet, forested area, and stepping inside feels like entering a different world. The huge complex brings together an impressive number of exhibits — tanks, vehicles, personal stories, immersive displays — all arranged in a way that makes the history of the Battle of Overloon feel vivid and real.
Exhibitions: a) The Netherlands during: In May 1940, German troops invaded the Netherlands. After only a few days of fighting, the country was forced to surrender — beginning a five‑year occupation that would shape every aspect of Dutch life. The Overloon War Museum brings this period vividly to life in this powerful exhibition. As you walk through the displays, you step into the lives of eight real individuals who lived through those years: a soldier, a housewife, a queen, and others whose stories reflect the impossible choices people faced. Do you adapt to the new reality? Collaborate? Resist? b) D-DEX: In this amazing immersive experience, you step straight into the invasion of Normandy. The museum places you in the footsteps of the men of the American 146th Engineer Combat Battalion, one of the very first units to land on Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944. This 4D journey lets you feel the tension, the chaos and the courage of D-Day.
c) Turning point Europe: This section of the museum showcases an impressive collection of German and Allied firearms, uniforms, and personal equipment, each piece telling its own story of the conflict. As you move through the displays, you see how the German army began its advance through Europe.
d) Military vehicle collection: In the museum’s vast main hall, you’re greeted by an extraordinary sight: more than 150 vehicles, vessels, and aircraft gathered under one roof. Many of them were left behind on the battlefield of Overloon itself, silent witnesses to the fierce fighting that once raged through this forest. Over the years, the collection has grown into one of Europe’s most impressive displays of wartime machinery — tanks, trucks, artillery, even aircraft — all arranged inside a space as large as two football fields.
e) 1000 bombs and grenades The Ben Junier ammo collection is without doubt one of Europe’s most exclusive military collections. Displayed prominently in the museum’s main exhibition hall, it brings together an extraordinary range of ammunition from different eras and armies, each piece offering a glimpse into the technology and tactics of warfare. f) Lancaster pavilion Discover the unique reconstruction of Lancaster NN775 at the Overloon War Museum — a breathtaking tribute crafted from more than 2,000 recovered fragments. These pieces, painstakingly collected and assembled by experts and volunteers, form the full‑size silhouette of the British bomber, honouring the seven crew members who lost their lives when the aircraft crashed in 1945.
A special and often overlooked highlight of the Overloon War Museum is that you can actually cycle through part of the museum. As the official cycle path passes right through the grounds, you’re able to ride past rows of wartime vehicles and outdoor exhibits, admiring tanks and artillery from your saddle. It’s a wonderfully unique way to experience the museum — blending history with the peaceful forest surroundings and giving cyclists a chance to encounter these impressive machines in a completely unexpected setting.
The museum brings you on a journey through history, and even if you’re not a history buff, it’s an amazing place that captures the imagination of young and old alike. With immersive exhibitions, powerful personal stories, and one of Europe’s most impressive collections of wartime vehicles and artifacts, Overloon is the kind of museum that leaves a lasting impression long after you step back into the quiet forest outside. Tucked away in the northwest of Ireland, the Ox Mountains are one of Sligo’s most peaceful escapes. Remote, rugged and wonderfully quiet, they’re the kind of place where you can walk for hours with only the wind and the wide views for company. If you’re looking to get away from it all, this is where you’ll find that sense of stillness. Heather and ferns blanket the hillsides in soft colour, giving the landscape a wild, untamed beauty. Dotted with beautiful rivers and lakes, it’s the ideal destination for a refreshing hike.
One of the best hikes in the Ox Mountains is the gentle loop around Lough Talt, a peaceful trail where the water mirrors the hills and the only sounds are wind and birdsong. Another favourite is the walk around Lough Easkey, a quiet, open landscape that feels wonderfully remote. Out here, your only company is the many sheep that freely roam the mountains — a reminder that this is true, untouched countryside where nature sets the pace.
The Ox Mountains may look quiet and timeless today, but their story stretches back hundreds of millions of years. Once towering peaks formed during ancient geological upheavals, they’ve been slowly worn down by wind, rain and ice into the gentle, heather‑covered ridge that rolls across west Sligo. Walking here, it’s easy to feel how remote this place once was. Scattered across the hillsides are historical traces — forgotten cairns, ringforts and mysterious stone circles left behind by Neolithic and Bronze Age communities. They sit quietly in the heather, untouched and half‑hidden, adding a sense of ancient mystery to every step you take
A place we love is the Ladies Brae picnic area at the Owenboy River, a peaceful little clearing where the water slips quietly past and the mountains rise gently around you. It’s one of those simple, perfect stops — a table, a river, fresh air, and the feeling that you’ve found a corner of Sligo all to yourself. If you really want to go rugged, climbing the peaks of the Ox Mountains might be just for you — the kind of adventure that rewards you with wide, sweeping views rather than steep, punishing climbs. As you rise along the heather‑covered slopes, the landscape slowly opens up, revealing quiet valleys, winding rivers and the long, rolling ridge that defines this ancient mountain range. From the higher points, the views stretch all the way across the Atlantic, and on a clear day you can even spot Croagh Patrick standing proud in neighbouring Mayo.
Under that heavy April sky, Bosa felt even more dramatic. It is one of Sardinia’s most picturesque towns, a colourful riverside village where medieval history, scenic viewpoints and the relaxed seaside atmosphere of Bosa Marina come together in a uniquely captivating way. The riverside promenade is one of Bosa’s most poetic spots. Walk along the Temo River, cross the historic Ponte Vecchio, and enjoy the colourful reflections of the town’s houses in the water. Bosa is known for coral jewellery, asphodel baskets, traditional filet lacework, and its celebrated Malvasia di Bosa wine. Small artisan shops keep these traditions alive, their workbenches filled with coral beads, fine threads and woven fibres that reflect centuries of local craftsmanship. Wandering through the old town, you often glimpse artisans at work, preserving skills passed down through generations and giving Bosa a quiet, authentic charm that goes far beyond its colourful façades.
We visited Serravalle Castle, climbing slowly through the narrow lanes of Sa Costa until the town opened beneath us. The pastel houses seemed to glow against the grey, and the ascent had that quiet, suspended feeling you only get before a storm. At the top, the view opened like a storybook: the river winding below, rooftops stacked in warm colours, and the sea just visible in the distance — a panorama that stays with you long after you’ve left. The fortress, built by the Malaspina family between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, still watches over Bosa with a quiet, weathered dignity. Its stone walls, roughened by centuries of wind and salt air, felt even more imposing under that brooding April sky.
Inside the fortress you’ll find the church of Nostra Signora de Sos Regnos Altos, home to remarkable 14th‑century frescoes. We also climed the tower of the castle.
A good time to visit Bosa is around carnival. Bosa’s carnival is one of Sardinia’s most distinctive, a celebration that blends theatre, tradition and a touch of mystery. The ritual reaches its peak on Shrove Tuesday (Martedì Grasso) during the final daytime hours of the Bosa Carnival. The procession of S’Attitidu, with its black‑masked mourners carrying a symbolic doll, is both dramatic and deeply rooted in local culture. It’s an event that transforms the town: the narrow streets fill with music, ritual and colour, offering a glimpse into Sardinia’s most ancient customs.
We found ourselves in Sardinia during the first week of April, and the island gave us all four seasons in the space of a few days. Snow dusted the hills, hail rattled the car, sunshine broke through in warm bursts, and the mistral whipped across the plains with real force. On this particular day, under a sky that couldn’t make up its mind, we visited the Church of the Holy Trinity of Saccargia — its black‑and‑white Romanesque stripes standing out boldly against the shifting weather, as if completely unfazed by the drama unfolding overhead.
You enter the church through the small tourist shop, and after paying a modest fee we stepped inside. The shift was immediate: from the bright, changeable April weather into a cool, dim interior that felt ancient and self‑contained. The striped stonework outside had been dramatic, but the quiet inside was even more striking — frescoes glowing softly in the apse.
Inside, the most famous paintings are the 12th‑century Romanesque frescoes in the apse. They’re fragmentary but still vivid: Christ enthroned, apostles, and scenes from the life of the Virgin, all painted in warm earth tones that glow softly in the dim interior. These frescoes are rare survivors. Most rural Sardinian churches lost their medieval paintings through time, neglect, or later renovations. Saccargia’s apse frescoes endured, making them one of the island’s most valuable windows into early medieval religious art.
The Voetgangerstunnel is a pedestrian tunnel that runs underneath the River Schelde in Antwerp. At Sint‑Jansvliet, you find the lift and the old wooden‑escalator building that takes you down to the tunnel, about 31 metres below street level. It feels a bit like stepping into a piece of Antwerp’s past — yellow tiles, long corridors, and the steady hum of people walking or cycling through. But before we talk about the tunnel, lets talk about the wooden escalators. The wooden escalators in Antwerp’s Voetgangerstunnel were installed when the tunnel opened in 1933, and they’ve been in use ever since. They’re among the last working wooden escalators in the world, still carrying people roughly 31–32 metres underground to reach the tunnel.
They’re kept running through careful maintenance, and the mix of creaks and smooth wooden steps gives the descent a nostalgic charm. At the bottom, the tunnel stretches out for 572 metres, tiled in soft yellow and echoing with the footsteps of walkers and the gentle whirr of cyclists passing through. In the middle of the tunnel, there’s a simple sign marking the halfway point. It’s nothing fancy — just a small reminder that you’re standing beneath the Scheldt, right under the river. It’s one of the simplest, calmest ways to cross the river, and when you emerge on the left bank, Antwerp opens up in front of you with wide views of the skyline and the harbour.
Once you arrive at Linkeroever, we recommend walking to the river crossing and taking the free ferry back across the Scheldt. It’s a short ride, calm and scenic, and it gives you a completely different view of Antwerp’s skyline. The MAS, the cathedral tower, and the curve of the river all line up beautifully as you glide back toward the right bank. It’s a small detour, but one that makes the whole crossing feel like part of the adventure rather than just a way to get from A to B.
Cuenca rises like a stone crown above the twin gorges of the Río Júcar and Río Huécar, each carving deep, shadowed cuts through the mountains of east‑central Spain. The old town doesn’t simply overlook the cliffs; it perches on them, leaning out over the void in a way that feels both impossible and inevitable. Arriving by bicycle, I felt Cuenca’s dramatic geography in my legs long before I saw it with my eyes. The climb toward El Castillo, where I’d stay for the night, was steep enough to make me question my planning — but every turn revealed a little more of the gorge, the rooftops, and the rugged horizon. Cycling underneath the gate at Plaza Mayor, I rode straight into the heart of Cuenca’s old town — a bright, open square with cafés, colourful buildings, and a relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to slow down for a while. But not just yet. I kept climbing, and by the time I reached the top, breathless and grinning, the city had already earned my respect.
After a refreshing shower in the apartment, i decided to wander into the Historic Walled Town. Narrow cobbled lanes twist between medieval houses, opening suddenly into viewpoints that make you stop in your tracks. Passing Cuenca Cathedral, I stopped for a moment to admire its mix of Gothic and Romanesque styles. It sits right in the middle of the old town, and the inside is quiet and beautiful. Outside, the square is a relaxed place to sit, watch people walk by, or enjoy a drink in the shade. Below you, the turquoise ribbon of the Río Júcar winds through the canyon, framed by rugged cliffs and pine‑covered hills. And then there are the icons — the Casas Colgadas that cling impossibly to the cliffside.
The Casas Colgadas, or “Hanging Houses,” are probably the most photographed buildings in Cuenca. Their wooden balconies stick out over the Huécar gorge, making them look like they’re hanging in the air. It’s a strange and impressive sight, and you can see why everyone takes pictures of them. To get a better look, I walked across the San Pablo Bridge, a long iron bridge high above the gorge. From the middle of the bridge, you get a perfect view: the Hanging Houses on one side, the deep drop of the gorge below, and Cuenca’s old town rising behind them like a stone fortress. On the other side of the gorge is the Parador de Cuenca, a former 16th‑century convent that is now a hotel. It sits on its own rocky ledge and looks calm and solid, facing the Hanging Houses across the gorge.
But Cuenca isn’t only about views and cliffs. It’s a place full of small cafés tucked under old stone arches, restaurants serving filling Manchego dishes, and quiet plazas where the evenings feel long and relaxed. The city feels old, but still very alive — dramatic in its setting, yet peaceful in its everyday rhythm. If you follow the Río Júcar downstream, you’ll find easy walking paths, spots where people swim in summer, and viewpoints that show Cuenca from angles most visitors never see. The river is the city’s lifeline, and one of its most beautiful features. As the sun went down behind the mountains, the cliffs turned golden and the old town shifted into soft colours of amber and rose. From the terrace near El Castillo, I watched the lights come on across the city, each one marking a home somewhere along the ridge. The rivers below slipped into shadow, and the Hanging Houses turned into dark shapes against the evening sky.
We visited Durbuy in early July, arriving around 6pm, and were surprised by how peaceful it was. For a place famously marketed as the smallest town in the world, we expected a lively buzz — but instead found cobbled streets almost empty and many of the businesses already closed for the evening. The quiet gave the town a different charm, though: a chance to wander without crowds, to hear our footsteps on the stones, and to enjoy the medieval setting as if it belonged entirely to us.
But Durbuy doesn’t stay sleepy for long. Earlier in the day — and especially on weekends — the town transforms into a postcard‑perfect hub of activity, full of visitors exploring its attractions. And there are plenty worth returning for. Top things to see and do in Durbuy: • The Old Town (La Vieille Ville) Durbuy’s medieval centre is its biggest draw. Narrow lanes, stone houses, tiny squares, and artisan shops make it a joy to explore. It’s small enough to wander without a map and charming enough to get lost on purpose.
• The Topiary Park (Parc des Topiaires) One of Durbuy’s most unique attractions, this park features over 250 sculpted boxwood figures — animals, shapes, and whimsical designs — all set against the backdrop of the Ourthe River. It’s peaceful, quirky, and surprisingly impressive. • Durbuy Castle (Château de Durbuy) You can’t enter the castle, but its dramatic silhouette rising above the town is iconic. It’s especially beautiful from the riverside or the old stone bridge.
• Adventure Valley Durbuy For outdoor lovers, this is the region’s adventure playground. Zip‑lining, kayaking, mountain biking, climbing, and forest trails make it a great stop for families or anyone craving a bit of adrenaline. • The Ourthe River Walks The river curves gently around the town, offering scenic paths perfect for a slow stroll. Early morning or late afternoon light makes the water shimmer and the surrounding hills glow. • The Durbuy Anticline, Rocher de la Falize, or Omalius Rock, is one of the town’s most striking landmarks — a curved stone arch shaped by immense geological forces more than 300 million years ago. Rising dramatically beside the Ourthe River, its folded layers of limestone look almost like frozen waves, a reminder of the deep pressure and tectonic movement that once reshaped this entire region.
Even though our first impression was shaped by its quiet evening streets, Durbuy’s charm lies in its contrasts: peaceful at dusk, lively by day, and always wrapped in medieval beauty. It’s a place that invites you to return — to see it in a different light, explore its attractions, and experience the full personality of this tiny Wallonian gem.
On a stunning day, we set out to hike to the Carrowkeel Court Tombs in County Sligo. These ancient passage tombs sit high in the Bricklieve Mountains, offering not only incredible archaeology but also some of the most breathtaking views in the region.
Starting at the first car park (space for just two cars), we followed the road towards a gate. From here, the path becomes a gravel track that gradually climbs into the Bricklieve Mountains. With every step, the views open up a little more, revealing the rolling hills and wide skies that make this area so special. Along the way, we were greeted by tiny lambs, enjoying the warm April sunshine and adding a lovely sense of life to the quiet landscape. Once you turn towards the mountain, the gentle incline quickly becomes a little bit more demanding. The path rises steadily, and you can feel the climb in your legs — but the reward is immediate. On this incredibly clear day, the views were nothing short of spectacular. From the ridge, we could see Slieve League in Donegal and Croagh Patrick in Mayo, both standing proudly on the horizon. It’s the kind of panorama that makes you stop, breathe it in, and appreciate just how special this part of Ireland is.
At the end of the gravel path, you turn right onto a narrow trail that leads directly towards the tombs. In total, there are fourteen cairns scattered across the ridge, with several of the most impressive ones perched along the summit. As you follow the path, the landscape opens up around you, and the ancient silhouettes of the tombs begin to appear against the sky — a breathtaking reward after the climb. The tombs, built around 5,000 years ago, are some of the finest examples of Neolithic passage cairns in Ireland. Scattered across the ridge, they form part of the larger Bricklieve complex and offer an incredible glimpse into prehistoric life, ritual and engineering.
The views from the top are simply stunning. Lough Arrow shimmered in the sunlight. From this height, the surrounding landscape feels endless — rolling hills, quiet valleys, and the distant silhouettes of mountains on the horizon. It’s the kind of place where you naturally pause, take a breath, and let the beauty of it all sink in, with the only sound being the soft bleating of lambs echoing across the hillside and gently breaking the mountain’s stillness.
Practical Info – Carrowkeel Walk
📍 Location: County Sligo, near Castlebaldwin 🚶♂️ Distance: 5.5 km out‑and‑back ⏱️ Time: 90 minutes at an easy pace 🥾 Difficulty: Easy to moderate 🛣️ Terrain:
🌦️ Best for: Dry days; the last section is on a boggy surface There’s something special about heading out for a walk on a bright Easter Sunday, and this year we set our sights on Mullaghgarve Mass Rock. We first spotted the route in Rozz Purcell’s book and, with the sun finally making an appearance, it felt like the perfect day to give it a go. Tucked away in rural County Leitrim, the trail has that quiet, untouched feel that makes you slow down and take everything in. The walk itself is only about three kilometres, but it packs in a surprising amount of variety. The first section follows peaceful gravel roads — easy going, with wide views across the countryside and the kind of gentle start that lets you settle into the rhythm of the day. Birds, sheep, stunning views… it’s Leitrim at its most honest.
After that, the character of the trail changes. The last 300 metres turn into a rocky path that winds upward, and the final push is definitely the steepest. It’s short, but it wakes up the legs. There’s a sense of stepping into older, wilder ground as you climb, the landscape closing in a little, the air getting stiller. Reaching the Mass Rock feels like arriving somewhere meaningful. Hidden in the hillside, it’s a quiet reminder of the people who once gathered here in secret. We paused for a while — partly to catch our breath, partly because the place invites you to. With the sun warm on our backs and the hills rolling out around us, it was one of those small, perfect moments that make a simple walk feel like something more.
Just beyond this area rises Iron Mountain (Sliabh an Iarainn), one of Leitrim’s most storied peaks. Known for its iron‑rich history and deep roots in Irish mythology, it adds a sense of ancient presence to the whole region. You can’t see all of it from the Mass Rock trail, but knowing it’s there — watching over Lough Allen — gives the landscape an extra layer of character. A short walk, a steep finish, a place full of history, and a sunny Easter Sunday to tie it all together. Sometimes that’s all you need.
Practical Info – Mullaghgarve Mass Rock Walk
📍 Location: County Leitrim, near Drumshanbo 🚶♂️ Distance: ~3 km out‑and‑back ⏱️ Time: 45–60 minutes at an easy pace 🥾 Difficulty: Easy to moderate — mostly gentle, with a short steep final climb 🛣️ Terrain:
🌦️ Best for: Dry days; the rocky section can be slippery after rain When you visit Porto, you really need a couple of days to soak in everything this stunning city has to offer. I, however, found myself there for just one evening. With an early flight to Dublin the next morning, I’d chosen a hotel right beside the airport. Thankfully, getting into the city from the airport couldn’t be easier — the metro runs directly into the centre, making even a short visit feel completely doable. Line E (the Violet line) connects the Airport Station directly to Trindade, the central hub of Porto’s metro network. Accessing the station from inside the airport is incredibly simple — everything is clearly signposted, and the walk takes just a couple of minutes. It’s one of the easiest airport-to-city transfers you’ll find in Europe.
After arriving at Trindade Station, my plan was to wander downhill toward the Minho, letting the city unfold naturally around me. There’s something special about stepping out into Porto in the early evening — the light softens, the streets begin to glow, and the whole city seems to exhale after a long day. I didn’t have a strict itinerary; instead, I followed the gentle slope of the streets, drawn by the promise of river views, tiled façades, and the quiet buzz of locals heading home or settling into cafés. It was the perfect way to ease into the heart of the city with only a few precious hours to spare.
If you want to admire the city from above, Miradouro da Rua das Aldas is the perfect spot. Tucked just behind the Sé do Porto, it offers one of those views that makes you pause without even realising it — the terracotta rooftops tumbling toward the river, the Dom Luís I Bridge stretching across the Douro, and the soft evening light settling over the city like a warm blanket. It’s not the most famous viewpoint in Porto, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It feels intimate, almost secret, as if the city is revealing itself just to you.
From the quiet charm of Miradouro da Rua das Aldas, I continued my descent toward Ribeira do Porto, the riverside district that feels like the city’s beating heart. The streets tightened as I walked, turning into a maze of stone steps, narrow alleys, and sudden openings that revealed glimpses of the Douro shimmering below. By the time I reached Ribeira, the evening atmosphere had settled in. The riverfront was alive with people lingering over dinner, street musicians playing soft melodies, and the lights from Vila Nova de Gaia reflecting across the water. The Dom Luís I Bridge arched overhead like a piece of iron lace, glowing gold against the deepening sky. Even with only a few hours in the city, standing there felt like the perfect reward for the downhill wander.
After a refreshing drink and a few snacks at the river front, , it was a steady climb upwards to reach the Dom Luís I Bridge. Ribeira may look flat and leisurely from the water’s edge, but the moment you turn inland, Porto reminds you of its true nature — a city built on hills, stairways, and steep cobbled lanes. I wound my way through narrow streets that twisted between old stone houses, each turn offering a new angle of the bridge rising above the rooftops. The climb was worth every step. As I approached the upper deck of the Dom Luís I Bridge, the city opened up around me. The Douro shimmered below, Ribeira glowed with its warm evening lights, and across the river, the wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia stood in quiet silhouette.
All in all, even though I only had a brief window to explore, I managed to get a real feel for what Porto has to offer — the atmosphere, the architecture, the riverfront energy, and those unforgettable viewpoints scattered across the hills. It was just enough to tease me, to show me the city’s charm without giving away all its secrets. One thing is certain: I definitely need to return for a few days, because Porto is the kind of place that deserves time, slow wandering, and a chance to sink into its rhythm properly.
Het Steen is a medieval fortress located in the historic centre of Antwerp, Belgium, one of Europe’s major port cities. The surviving structure was built between 1200 and 1225 as the gateway to a much larger castle belonging to the Dukes of Brabant, which was demolished in the 19th century. As Antwerp’s first stone fortification, it is considered the city’s oldest building and once formed part of its earliest urban core.
Growing up, I loved visiting Het Steen. Back then, the medieval fortress was home to the nautical museum, and wandering through its exhibits felt like stepping into another world. In recent years, a modern extension was added to the medieval castle. This new section forms the Antwerp Cruise Terminal — a contemporary glass‑and‑steel structure built onto the ancient fortress so cruise passengers can arrive directly in the historic city centre. Although it connects an 800‑year‑old castle with a sleek modern facility designed for today’s cruise traffic, many people in Antwerp dislike the addition and feel it clashes with the historic character of the site.
In front of the castle stands a striking statue of Lange Wapper, the mischievous giant from Antwerp folklore. The bronze figure, with its exaggerated proportions and looming posture, depicts the legendary trickster who was said to roam the city at night, playing pranks on unsuspecting citizens. Positioned at the entrance to Het Steen, the statue has become one of the fortress’s most recognizable features, adding a touch of myth and storytelling to the historic site. Walking through the gate, you are welcomed by the medieval structure itself. Inside, you step into a compact but evocative courtyard enclosed by the thick medieval walls of the fortress. The stone passages, narrow stairways, and weathered façades immediately reveal the building’s age, giving you a sense of how the castle once functioned as a defensive stronghold on the Scheldt. Despite the modern additions elsewhere in the complex, this inner section still feels authentically medieval, preserving the character and atmosphere of Antwerp’s oldest surviving structure.
Inside Het Steen, the contrast between past and present becomes immediately visible. One of the most striking features is the old stone fireplace, a remnant of the medieval fortress that hints at how people once lived and worked within these walls. Nearby, a modern tapestry adds a contemporary touch to the space. Its clean lines and bold design stand in deliberate contrast to the rough medieval stone, creating a dialogue between the building’s long history and its renewed role as a visitor centre. The combination of the ancient fireplace and the modern artwork captures exactly what Het Steen has become: a place where Antwerp’s past and present meet under one roof. The modern extension of Het Steen also contains Antwerp’s main tourist office, located inside the new glass‑and‑brick wing attached to the medieval fortress. This contemporary space serves as the city’s official visitor centre, offering maps, information, tickets, and interactive displays. The contrast between the sleek, modern interior and the centuries‑old stone walls of the original castle highlights the building’s transformation from a medieval stronghold into a gateway for today’s visitors.
Cycling along the N‑330, the last ten kilometres into Almansa felt like riding through a world reduced to earth, sky, and heat. With each pedal stroke, the Castle of Almansa grew a little clearer on its rocky perch. The final stretch was tough, the heat rising off the asphalt in shimmering waves, but the stark emptiness of the landscape offered its own kind of beauty—wide horizons, pale fields, and a silence broken only by the hum of tyres on tarmac. Almansa is a small but striking town in southeastern Castilla‑La Mancha, defined by its fortress rising straight out of a rocky crag. The landscape is wide and open, the streets compact and walkable, and the history stretches from medieval lords to a decisive 18th‑century battle. It’s the kind of place where you can see everything in a day but remember it for much longer, a place where the castle seems to watch over every corner.
And it is here that you find a typical Spanish town without the tourists—quiet streets lined with low, sun‑washed buildings, neighbours chatting in doorways, and the slow rhythm of a place that lives for itself rather than for visitors. After the long, barren stretch of road, Almansa felt like stepping into a pocket of authenticity, a town content in its own skin. The castle still loomed above, but down in the streets life unfolded gently: a bakery door propped open, the smell of fresh bread drifting out; a handful of metal chairs scattered outside a café; the echo of a church bell marking the hour. The Castillo de Almansa dominates the skyline, a 14th–15th‑century fortress rising straight from the rocky crag. The climb to its gates is short but evocative, following worn stone steps that wind upward toward the towers. From the battlements, the views open wide—vineyards, plains, and the clustered rooftops of the old town spread out below. Inside, the restored towers and walkways hint at how the fortress once operated, blending history with a quiet sense of height and space.
The old town wraps itself around the castle in a tangle of narrow medieval streets, each turn revealing another trace of Almansa’s past. The Palacio de los Condes de Cirat stands out with its elegant Mannerist façade, while the Casa Grande and several 17th‑century ancestral homes—like the House of Enríquez de Navarra—hint at the town’s former nobility. Nearby, the City Hall and the old communal granary, now transformed into the local Arts Centre, add a civic note to the walk. Together, these buildings create a compact but vivid picture of Almansa’s aristocratic and historical character.
 For history buffs, Almansa offers several places tied to the 1707 Battle of Almansa, one of the decisive moments of the War of the Spanish Succession. The Almansa Battle Museum gives a clear overview of the conflict with maps, artifacts, and reconstructions. Around town, the Murales de la Batalla add colour to the story through large outdoor murals, while the Recreación Batalla de Almansa site reflects the annual reenactment that brings the battle back to life each spring. Together, these spots make it easy to trace the events that shaped the town’s past.
Another great attraction is the Mirador Astronómico de Almansa, a small but striking viewpoint on the edge of town, known for its open skies and uninterrupted views across the plains. It sits in a quiet residential area and is accessible at any time of day, making it a simple but rewarding stop for anyone exploring Almansa. The mirador is designed for stargazing and wide‑angle views of the surrounding landscape. Its elevated position gives you a clear line of sight over the flat terrain around Almansa, which is why it’s used for astronomical observation. The lack of tall buildings nearby helps keep the horizon open, and the area is calm enough at night to enjoy the sky without much interference.
And then there are the many restaurants for the hungry visitors. Almansa’s food scene is shaped by La Mancha’s rural traditions, hearty mountain dishes, and a surprisingly strong fine‑dining culture for a town its size. You get a mix of rustic, comforting plates and modern interpretations—plus several standout restaurants that draw visitors from across Spain. Where to eat? Fine dining
Traditional & regional
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About the AuthorWe are Peter & Dolores De Bie. We love the great outdoors, discovering new parts of the world and writing about our adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way and further afield Categories
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