Berlengas

What can you expect when you board the ferry from Peniche to the Berlengas and the very first thing they hand you is a seasick bag? Confidence, clearly.
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We’d booked our Viamar ferry (viamar) the day before through their website, just to be sure we’d secure a spot. In reality, plenty of boats shuttle back and forth to the island, so getting a ticket usually isn’t too difficult. Still, better safe than sorry.

So off we went—seasick bag tucked in the pocket, ready for whatever the Atlantic had planned. These waters are famously rough, thanks to the 4,000‑metre‑deep Nazaré underwater canyon that helps make this stretch of coastline one of Portugal’s top surf zones. Let’s just say the ocean doesn’t hold back.

When the ferry pulled away at 11:30, the sky was still a little overcast, but the farther we travelled from the coast, the brighter it became.

The crossing takes around 45 minutes—longer if the sea gets rough, and it certainly did on our return—but on this particular morning the ocean behaved just enough to keep things manageable. Even so, a few passengers didn’t escape the seasickness. Despite that, the Berlengas are absolutely worth the journey.

The main island sits about 10 km off the coast of Peniche and has been declared a natural reserve. At just 2.5 square kilometres, it’s a compact but extraordinary place, home to thousands of seabirds that use the cliffs and rocky outcrops as ideal breeding grounds.
The waters surrounding the island are crystal clear and perfect for watersports, snorkelling, or simply watching the many fish—and occasionally dolphins—that glide through this protected marine paradise.

The ferry docks at the island’s only harbour, where a small fleet of fishing boats and glass‑bottom boats wait patiently for the steady stream of visitors. This is also where you’ll find a gorgeous little beach, perfectly sheltered from the ever‑present Atlantic winds by the towering cliffs that surround it.
A word of warning: the breeze may feel refreshing, but it does a great job of hiding the strength of the sun. Sunburn is almost guaranteed if you’re not careful, so pack plenty of sunscreen.
Don’t expect solitude around the harbour or the tiny beach—during the summer months, this area fills quickly with day‑trippers and sun‑seekers. Scattered around the harbour are a handful of small huts and concrete houses, a basic campsite, and a restaurant.

But wander just a little farther along the narrow walking paths and the crowds disappear. Suddenly it’s just you, the rugged landscape, and what feels like a million birds and lizards keeping you company. It’s in these quieter corners that the true magic of the Berlengas really reveals itself.

We decided to hop onto one of the local glass‑bottom boats for a trip to the caves—a short but worthwhile adventure that gives you a completely different perspective on the Berlengas. From the boat, you can peer straight into the crystal‑clear water, spotting fish gliding between the rocks as the skipper navigates along the rugged coastline.
The tour takes you right up to the caves, where the Atlantic has carved dramatic shapes into the cliffs. It’s a fun, breezy ride, made even better by the company: we shared the boat with a friendly couple from Belgium and their three daughters, all just as excited to explore the island as we were.

After the boat trip, we decided to treat ourselves to lunch—and a glass or two of wine—at Restaurante Mar&Sol. The name couldn’t be more fitting: the terrace sits right in the sun, overlooking the crystal‑clear waters below.

Prices are a little higher than on the mainland, but it’s easy to understand why—everything has to be brought over by boat. Even so, the menu is still very reasonably priced. We started with bread and sardine pâté, followed by Bitoque (steak, eggs, fries, and a side salad), all paired with a medium carafe of white wine and another of red. The entire meal came to €33, which felt like a bargain considering the setting.
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And those views from the terrace? Absolutely unbeatable.

The island is perfect for walking, so that’s exactly what we set out to do after lunch. A concrete path winds its way up toward the lighthouse, perched on the highest point of the Berlengas and offering sweeping views over the Atlantic.
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From the lighthouse, a rocky trail leads down toward the 17th‑century Forte de São João Baptista. The fort sits dramatically on its own rocky outcrop, connected to the main island by a narrow stone bridge that looks like something straight out of a medieval adventure. Crossing it feels like stepping back in time, with the waves crashing below and the fortress rising ahead of you.

We were only on the island for the day, but if you decide to stay overnight, you have three options:
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a) Casa de Abrigo Located inside the Forte de São João Baptista, this is easily the most atmospheric place to stay—but also the least accessible. Reaching it requires a solid uphill and downhill walk, including crossing the narrow stone bridge to the fort. The accommodation itself is very simple, offering dorms (up to six beds) or basic private rooms priced between €20 and €22. It’s rustic, but the setting more than makes up for it.

b) Área de Campismo da Berlenga A small, simple campsite close to the harbour, set across rocky terraces. It’s basic but convenient, and at €10.30 it’s the most budget‑friendly option on the island.

c) Residencial Mar e Sol This tiny guesthouse offers just six rooms and also happens to be the island’s only restaurant. At around €100 per night, it’s the most comfortable choice—and certainly the easiest if you want a bed, a shower, and a meal all in one place.

But no matter where you stay, the real stars of the Berlengas are the birds. Thousands of them nest across the cliffs and rocky slopes, filling the island with constant chatter. They’re loud, fiercely protective of their chicks, and not shy about letting you know when you’re getting too close.
And then there are the lizards—everywhere. They dart across the paths, sunbathe on warm rocks, and occasionally sprint right in front of your feet. Between the birds, the lizards, and the wild landscape, the island feels like a tiny, rugged world all of its own.

At the end of our fabulous day on the Berlengas, we made our way back to the harbour for one last drink. As we were on the final ferry of the day, departing around 6:30 pm, the handful of people staying overnight gathered to wave us off—a small but charming farewell.
The return journey, however, was a very different story from the calm crossing that morning. The sea had picked up considerably, and there were moments when the boat tilted so sharply on the waves that you’d be forgiven for thinking it might roll straight into the Atlantic. But the captain handled it like a pro. Not only did he keep us safe and steady, he even managed to catch up with a smaller ferry that had left half an hour before us.

​By the time Peniche came back into view, we were windswept, slightly salty, and very grateful for solid ground—but absolutely convinced that the Berlengas are worth every bump along the way.
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