An evening in Cudillero

After a day in the saddle, I jumped off the bike on the outskirts of the beautiful fishing village of Cudillero. Following an effortless check‑in and a refreshing shower, I made my way into the village. I had chosen a small hotel near the Palacio de los Selgas, and from there a quiet 1‑kilometre walk along a country road led me to the top of the village, close to the lighthouse.

Overlooking Cudillero, it’s easy to understand why so many tourists are drawn to this idyllic fishing village. The tiny port has remained largely unchanged, with pastel‑coloured houses clinging to the steep hillside in a picture‑perfect cascade. The amphitheatre‑shaped town opens out onto the central Plaza de la Marina, where rows of restaurants line the square, ready to welcome the steady stream of visitors who come to soak up the atmosphere.

As it was a Saturday evening in early June, I had expected Cudillero to be much livelier. But the changeable weather was likely to blame; on this particular evening, most of the terraces were only half‑filled with customers, giving the village a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere than usual.

At the slipway, two kids were splashing in the sea, their laughter echoing across the harbour. The houses clinging to the steep hillside are linked by a maze of ancient narrow streets and stairways, each one offering a different route through the town — and countless photo opportunities along the way.

A rewarding climb out of the village leads to Mirador de la Garita and Mirador de la Atalaya, two viewpoints that offer magnificent panoramas over Cudillero and out towards the vast expanse of the Atlantic.

Cudillero may be famous for its pastel‑coloured houses cascading down the hillside, but its food scene is every bit as memorable as its postcard‑perfect views. Tucked into a natural amphitheatre overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, this tiny Asturian fishing village serves up some of the freshest seafood you’ll find anywhere along Spain’s northern coast.
After a long day of cycling, arriving hungry in Cudillero is almost a blessing. The village rewards you with flavours that are simple, generous, and deeply rooted in the sea.

The moment you step into the Plaza de la Marina, the smell of grilled fish, garlic, and simmering stews drifts through the air. Restaurants spill out onto the square, each one offering its own take on classic Asturian dishes. Menus lean heavily on whatever the fishermen have hauled in that morning — octopus, hake, monkfish, sardines, and of course, calamares.

One of the most comforting dishes you can order is the Sopa de Pescado, a hearty fish soup that feels like a warm embrace after hours on the road. What arrives at the table is never just a bowl of broth. In Cudillero, it often comes in a steaming metal pot, brimming with prawns, crabmeat, and chunks of white fish. It’s the kind of dish that surprises you with its generosity — six full servings from a single order isn’t unusual.

In truth, the €8 fish soup alone would have been more than enough. But I had also ordered a generous plate of fresh Calamares, and they arrived perfectly cooked — tender, lightly seasoned, and exactly what you’d hope for in a village that lives and breathes the sea.
​
I rounded off the evening with a few glasses of wine before making my way back to the hotel. One thing to keep in mind: the walk out of the village is steep, and you’ll need a bit of energy left to tackle the hundreds of steps leading back up toward the lighthouse.