An afternoon in Antequera,

I found myself walking through the sun-drenched streets of Antequera, the Andalusian town quietly tucked between giants like Ronda, Seville and Granada. It was early May, and already the temperature had soared to 35 degrees Celcius - the first heatwave of the year, and it wasn’t pulling any punches.

Earlier that morning, I’d cycled from Ronda to Antequera, winding through the surreal landscape of El Torcal de Antequera, a natural park famed for its otherworldly limestone formations. The ride was stunning, but the heat was relentless, and by the time I reached Plaza de San Sebastián, the climb to the Alcazaba felt like a final test of endurance.

The uphill walk was tough—each step a battle against the blazing sun—but then I reached the top. And just like that, the struggle melted away. Before me lay Antequera, bathed in golden light, its rooftops shimmering, its quiet charm unfolding like a secret whispered by the hills.

Unlike its more famous neighbors, Antequera isn’t overrun with tourists. It’s a town that invites you to slow down, to wander, to discover. From its Moorish fortress to its Unesco-listed dolmens, from the peaceful plazas to the panoramic views, Antequera rewards those who make the effort to reach it.

The historic monumental wealth can be seen all over the town, from the many churches and convents to the palaces. Then there is the impressive Alcazabar that with its strategic position overlooks the town and provides stunning views all across the area.  

Just outside the impressive Arco de los Gigantes, I paused to buy my entrance ticket for the Alcazaba of Antequera. The ticket office, tucked beside the arch, also offers handheld audio guides in a variety of languages— English, Spanish, French, Italian and German—making it easy to explore at your own pace. While guided tours are available for those who prefer a deeper dive with a local expert, I chose the self-guided option, letting the audio guide lead me through the fortress’s storied walls and panoramic viewpoints.

Arco de los Gigantes:

The Arco de los Gigantes is situated at the entrance to the ancient Arab medina and route to the souk. The outside of the Arch bears the coat of arms of Fernando I, featuring the lion, the castle and stargazer lilies.
Entering the Alcazaba is done by entering the Puerta de la Alcazaba, the outermost gate of the complex.​

Alcazaba:

When entering the Alcazaba, you will get a feel for the cheer size of the Moorish Fortress. The fortress covers an area of 62000 sqm and was originally part of a Roman Citadel. Throughout its 8000 years, it has been an important fortress and cultural centre.
Around the Alcazaba, you can see several Roman ruins that are still being investigated, the first being Roman baths that date back to the 3rd Century AD and tombs. 

In the 11th Century, the town of Antequera emerged as a significant taifa within the Islamic territory of Al-Andalus. Strategically located in the heart of Andalusia, it became a vital stronghold during a time of growing tension between Muslim and Christian realms.

By the 14th Century, the Christian kingdoms of the north had made substantial advances, shrinking the borders of Al-Andalus and placing towns like Antequera and Ronda on the defensive front. In response to this mounting pressure, the Alcazaba of Antequera was constructed—a formidable Moorish fortress built atop Roman ruins to guard against northern incursions2.

With its commanding hilltop position and sweeping views of the surrounding valley, the Alcazaba served not only as a military bastion but also as a symbol of resilience.

The Patio de Armas is the central square that was originally used as barracks for troops. this central square provides you with access to the different parts of the fortress.

a) Torre del Homenaje: the keep, also known as the five-cornered square because it is L-shaped,  is considered to be one of the highest towers in Al-Andalus. It was here that prince Don Fernando commemorated taking Antequera.

b) Templete y Chapitel: Built by the Christians, the pyramidal spire crowns the Muslim tower and houses the original bell and clock. By climbing up this tower, you will be rewarded with stunning views across Antequera and towards the Pena de los Enamorados (Rock of the lovers). The rock's profile resembles a human face and has been the subject of local legends. 

c) Torre Blanca: the white tower dates back to the Nazarid dynasty. The lower floor of this building was used for defense while the living quarters were above this floor.

d) Mezquita y Aljibe: The ruins of the mosque and the water tank are in the central square

​e) Torre del Quiebro: The tower was demolished in 1510 by order of the governor of the fortress and was recently rebuilt.

After an enriching visit to the Alcazaba, I stepped back into the sun and wandered towards the nearby Colegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor. Conveniently, admission to the architectural gem is included in the Alcazaba ticket, making it an easy and worthwhile addition to the day’s itinerary. 
Set against the backdrop of Antequera’s historic skyline, the Real Colegiate de Santa Maria la Mayor is a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance architecture, built between 1514 and 1550. Its grand façade—designed by Diego de Siloé—is one of the most iconic in Andalusia, blending Gothic and Renaissance elements with striking elegance.


Collegiate de Santa Maria la Mayor

The Royal Collegiate church is divided into three naves by the use of huge columns. The beautiful Coffered Mudejar ceiling is just a piece of artwork as is the Tabernacle chapel.

Where I ran out of time, I didn't get the chance to visit the Antequera Dolmen Site. This complex contains three megalithic monuments: the Menga and Viera dolmens and the Tholos of the Romeral. The Mena dolmen is about 6000 years old. These importance of these three Dolmen along with El Torcal and La Pena de los Enamorados natural formations made it declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016 due to its status as one of the most notable prehistoric archaeological sites in Europe. 
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After an afternoon steeped in history at the Alcazaba and the Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, I was ready to indulge. Antequera offers no shortage of dining options, but on this particular evening, I found myself drawn to the warm, inviting atmosphere of Abrasador Bodegas Triana, located on the bustling CAlle Infante Don Fernando. The restaurant is known for its grilled meats, traditional Spanish dishes, and a menu that celebrates local flavours with a modern twist. 

This restaurant showed me again how great Spanish Cuisine and restaurants are. Two girls managed to serve about 40 tables efficiently providing them with drinks and food all while the restaurant was fully booked... and this on an ordinary weekday. And with the high quality of the food matched with very reasonable pricing , it isn't hard to see why.
Antequera is a great town to spend a few days visiting the many tourist sites and sampling the great food in the many restaurants.
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