Achill Island, County Mayo

County Mayo never fails to surprise, and this visit was no different. This time, we set our sights on Achill Island — the largest island off the coast of Ireland, yet easily reached by a bridge that carries you straight into Achill Sound.

Achill is shaped by rugged mountains, wide stretches of peat bog, towering sea cliffs, and of course, its famous Blue Flag beaches. Our final destination was Keem Strand, a secluded, breathtaking beach tucked away at the very western tip of the island.
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After rolling across the bridge into Achill Sound, we stopped at the tourist office and post office to collect a few more stamps for our Wild Atlantic Way passport. Once through the village, we turned left onto the L1405, beginning our journey deeper into the island.
Our first stop: the Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint “An Cheibh Bheag” — Cloghmore Pier at Kildavnet. A quiet, atmospheric spot, it’s the perfect introduction to the raw beauty that defines Achill.

From the pier, you can even catch a ferry to Clare Island, a lovely detour if you have the time. Standing nearby is Grace O’Malley’s Castle, a 15th‑century tower house linked to the legendary pirate queen herself. It’s believed that Grace O’Malley established this stronghold while she ruled the waters of the west coast during the 16th century.
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The tower rises 12 metres high and contains three storeys. You can step inside the structure, which gave us the perfect chance to take a short break, admire the bay and snap a few photos. It’s a simple building, but knowing who once commanded these shores makes it feel incredibly atmospheric.

Carrying on, we followed the road around the headland and were immediately greeted with sweeping views towards Clare Island. The sea was rough that day, with powerful waves crashing against the rocks in dramatic bursts of white spray. A little further along, we reached Ashleam Bay, framed by striking white cliffs. This is another Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint, “Cuan na hAisleime.”

From the lookout above the bay, a series of sharp hairpin bends snakes down towards the pebble beach, where the Atlantic hammers the shoreline with relentless energy. It’s one of those places where you can feel the raw force of nature all around you.
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Continuing our journey, we rejoined the main road and turned towards Keel. As you drive around Achill Island, you’ll quickly recognise some of the scenery from the blockbuster film “The Banshees of Inisherin,” which was partly shot here. With landscapes this dramatic, it’s easy to imagine how many more visitors will be drawn to this stunning part of Ireland after seeing it on screen.

One thing we quickly noticed on Achill Island is just how many sheep roam freely along the roads. Even in the village of Keel, sheep were casually wandering about as if they owned the place. Keel itself was very quiet as we drove through — probably because it was early February — but you can easily imagine how lively it becomes in summer. With its long, stunning beach and all the watersports on offer, the population must swell tenfold once the warmer months arrive.​

To reach Keem Strand, you follow a spectacular clifftop road that winds its way out of Keel. The views across the Atlantic are nothing short of breathtaking. As we approached Keem Bay, the sun finally broke through the clouds, lighting up the landscape in a stunning display of colour — from the azure blue of the water to the bright white sand of the strand below.

Keem Bay itself is a perfect horseshoe-shaped cove, flanked on both sides by steep cliffs. It’s hard to imagine now, but this peaceful spot was once the centre of a thriving fishing industry. Local fishermen used traditional currachs, and the waters around Achill were frequented by basking sharks, which were caught here between the 1950s and 1980s.

Keem Strand marked the end of our Achill adventure. Achill Island is full of dramatic contrasts — crashing waves, rugged cliffs, and pristine Blue Flag beaches — but there’s something truly special about Keem. Standing there, looking out over the vast expanse of water, surrounded by shifting colours and silence, you can almost believe you’re the only person on the island.
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Of course, that solitude was probably helped by the fact that it was February. Judging by the size of the car park, Keem Strand is clearly a very popular summer destination, and it’s easy to see why.