10 hours in Inishowen, County Donegal

It was meant to be a dry April day, so we decided it was the perfect opportunity for a day trip to Inishowen. The plan was simple: leave Sligo early, drive north towards Donegal, and complete the Inishowen 100, the sign‑posted coastal route that links all the peninsula’s most scenic viewpoints.

The day before, we had reached out to our Twitter followers for recommendations — and they didn’t disappoint. We received a long list of must‑see spots, along with one repeated warning: trying to fit everything into a single day would be ambitious. As it turned out, they were absolutely right… but more on that later.
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After a smooth drive towards Letterkenny, our first stop was Grianán of Aileach, an ancient hilltop stone ringfort. Perched high above the landscape, it offers sweeping views across Lough Swilly, Lough Foyle and the entire Inishowen peninsula. It’s the kind of place that immediately sets the tone for the day — wild, historic and unmistakably Donegal.

After an informative stop at Grianán of Aileach, we continued along our route with our next destination: Inch Island. This quiet, scenic spot is a designated wildfowl sanctuary, and it’s especially popular with the swans and geese that migrate from Iceland each winter to enjoy Donegal’s milder climate.
Even in spring, the landscape feels alive with birdlife, and the stillness of the surrounding wetlands makes it a peaceful place to pause and take in the beauty of the peninsula.

​After a short walk around Inch Island, we continued north. Passing through Buncrana, we soon arrived at Dunree Fort, one of the most striking historic sites along the Inishowen 100.Perched dramatically on a rocky headland overlooking Lough Swilly, Dunree Fort began life as a Royal Navy coastal defence post during the Napoleonic Wars. Its strategic position made it a key military site for more than a century, and it remained in use right up until after the Second World War.
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Today, the fort has been transformed into a military museum, showcasing restored cannons, guns and fascinating exhibits about its long defensive history. The site also includes a café, a small gift shop and several coastal walking trails — all offering spectacular views across the lough and out towards the Atlantic.

Across from the café, a narrow path leads down the cliffs to a small pier — a spot that feels almost hidden. The water here is an astonishing shade of azure, the kind of colour you’d expect in the Mediterranean rather than on the wild Donegal coast. It’s one of those places you have to see to believe.
After a bit of rock‑hopping at the base of Dunree Fort, we rejoined the Inishowen 100 and continued north towards Malin Head. But before reaching Ireland’s most northerly point, we had another stop on our itinerary: the Gap of Mamore.

This twisty, scenic mountain pass winds its way between two towering peaks, offering dramatic views in every direction. At the top, you’ll find a collection of shrines and St. Eigne’s Holy Well, a site long associated with pilgrimage and local devotion. The combination of rugged landscape and quiet spirituality gives the place a unique atmosphere — wild yet peaceful at the same time.

Our next stop was Glenevin Waterfall Park. The trail begins beside the charming Glen House Tea Rooms, and from there the path gently follows the river as it winds its way through the narrow valley. It’s an easy, scenic walk, with little wooden bridges and shaded stretches that make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.
At the end of the trail, the valley opens up to reveal Glenevin Waterfall, dropping around 30 feet into a clear plunge pool below. Surrounded by mossy rock and overhanging trees, it’s a spectacular sight — peaceful, powerful and well worth the detour.​

Crossing the bridge into the village of Malin, we followed the road along the shoreline until we reached one of the true highlights of the Inishowen 100: Five Finger Strand. And honestly, what can we say that the photos don’t already capture?

The beach is breathtaking. The water is crystal clear, the sand stretches out in soft golden curves, and the towering dunes — some of the highest in Europe — rise dramatically behind it. Add in the sunshine we were lucky enough to enjoy, and it felt like we had stumbled onto a hidden paradise.
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So we did the only sensible thing: we stopped for a good two hours. The views were too good to rush, and the kids were more than happy building sandcastles while we soaked in the scenery.

The final stop of the day was the one I had been looking forward to the most: Malin Head. I had stayed here with my parents back in 1984, when Malin Head was known mainly for its rugged coastline, great fishing and clusters of traditional thatched cottages. Coming from Antwerp, it felt like the most remote place on earth — wild, windswept and wonderfully quiet.

Things have changed since then. Today, Malin Head is a signature point on the Wild Atlantic Way, and it has gained international fame as a filming location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi. And it shows. When we arrived, every available parking space at Ireland’s most northerly point was already taken, the place buzzing with visitors eager to see the dramatic landscape for themselves.

Malin Head, however, remains as spectacular as ever. Where my dad and I once scrambled over rocks near Hell’s Hole with fishing rods in hand, there are now well‑built walkways guiding visitors safely along the cliffs. The views are still as raw and powerful as I remember — crashing waves, jagged rocks, and the endless Atlantic stretching out towards the horizon.